Just purchased my first 44 mag wheel gun

There most certainly is.

Buffalo Bore makes a beauty 340 gr +P and I believe it can be brought in from IRG.

There isn't a SAAMI standard for .44 Magnum +P, though. Just keep in mind if you use this ammunition that is is not industry standard.
 
Just been through all the replies, good stuff!
That caliber seems well and alive by the looks of it!

I already have titegroup in hand (over 16# since it's my go to 9mm/40SW powder), anyone have good success with it?
Also looking at 240gr campro plated bullets available locally.

Was going to buy factory to make some brass, think i'll skip the factory loads and break in the new gun with reloads.
 
44 mag,in my opinion is the greatest caliber, for a wheel gun ever conceived. It will kill anything that roams North America on the high-end and is pleasant to shoot in 44 special with cast loads on the low-end,there is no downside. Congratulations

Can't argue with this.... 44 mag is a prefect reason to start reloading.
 
I already have titegroup in hand (over 16# since it's my go to 9mm/40SW powder), anyone have good success with it?
Also looking at 240gr campro plated bullets available locally.

Was going to buy factory to make some brass, think i'll skip the factory loads and break in the new gun with reloads.

1) I have not used Titegroup before but I expect it will work well for the light loads. You want 2400 or H110 for the thermonuclear level loads.
2) Campro's will work fine for lighter loads but you can exceed their velocity limitations with hot loads, so pay attention to those limits.
3) I bought brass off the EE and cast bullets from Ben Hunchak. My 5.5" Redhawk was NIB when I bought it and it has never seen jacketed bullets. Cast works great for everything in .44 Mag.


Mark
 
1) I have not used Titegroup before but I expect it will work well for the light loads. You want 2400 or H110 for the thermonuclear level loads.
2) Campro's will work fine for lighter loads but you can exceed their velocity limitations with hot loads, so pay attention to those limits.
3) I bought brass off the EE and cast bullets from Ben Hunchak. My 5.5" Redhawk was NIB when I bought it and it has never seen jacketed bullets. Cast works great for everything in .44 Mag.


Mark

Thanks!
Just got this on campros site

dmHXBxZh.png


If we speak in power factor (bullet grains x velocity, the result divided by 1000), what are we looking at in general?
For let's say factory loads, light loads and hot loads
 
Just been through all the replies, good stuff!
That caliber seems well and alive by the looks of it!

I already have titegroup in hand (over 16# since it's my go to 9mm/40SW powder), anyone have good success with it?
Also looking at 240gr campro plated bullets available locally.

Was going to buy factory to make some brass, think i'll skip the factory loads and break in the new gun with reloads.

Ive had good luck with 5.0 grains TG with a 240grain SWC cast bullet.Good for 750fps.Very accurate,easy on the hand and brass lasts forever.I usually only shoot a couple of cylinders of magnum rounds in my model 29 on a range outing,I find the light reloads much more enjoyable to shoot and also much easier on my 50 year old model 29
 
I ve been using 13.3gr of HS6 with Campro 240gr and CCI 350. It's a good mid range load and super clean "heavy roll crimp"
 
I ve been using 13.3gr of HS6 with Campro 240gr and CCI 350. It's a good mid range load and super clean "heavy roll crimp"

This is getting close to something i want to try
What velocity?

Since it’s an occasional gun,
I’d like it to have sone bark
Was thinking 1000fps with 240gr should be sufficient

From what i read now
Still a bit weaker than factory but should still pack a punch
 
Thanks!
Just got this on campros site

dmHXBxZh.png


If we speak in power factor (bullet grains x velocity, the result divided by 1000), what are we looking at in general?
For let's say factory loads, light loads and hot loads

Using 23.6grn H110 with a campro 240grn. Velocity is around 1400fps out of a 6'' barrel, so PF of 336. I guess most would consider this a hot load.
 
This is getting close to something i want to try
What velocity?

Since it’s an occasional gun,
I’d like it to have sone bark
Was thinking 1000fps with 240gr should be sufficient

From what i read now
Still a bit weaker than factory but should still pack a punch

Not sure, but it sure has punch and is cleaner than any factory load I've fired. It also meters very well and my loads are never more than 0.1gr off if that.

Remember use Mag primers only, med to heavy roll crimp "with out cracking bullets" and stay in the mid to upper powder load range.

Hard part is cutting down on the bullet creep with CAMPRO bullets with out cracking the plate. I have tried the lee FCD, RCBS roll, Lee collect so far and none stop bullet creep. Best was the FCD an RCBS with around 0.030" creep with heavy crimp. The Lee FCD eat the brass like a beaver with broken teeth and is not a good choice if you want your brass to last, plus the crimp looks awful. I am going the try the redding crimp die next as my final try at cutting the bullet creep down to under 0.010".
 
Using 23.6grn H110 with a campro 240grn. Velocity is around 1400fps out of a 6'' barrel, so PF of 336. I guess most would consider this a hot load.

Yep, that must bark quite a bit!


Dsiwy
I am going to purchase dies tomorrow at local cabelas as i want to ready loads asap (vs waiting for shipping)
The crimp in this caliber looks touchy from what i read in your post.
Ordered starline brass, brass coloured and NOT nickel plated, so by cracking the plate do you mean crackling the nickel plating?
 
Yep, that must bark quite a bit!


Dsiwy
I am going to purchase dies tomorrow at local cabelas as i want to ready loads asap (vs waiting for shipping)
The crimp in this caliber looks touchy from what i read in your post.
Ordered starline brass, brass coloured and NOT nickel plated, so by cracking the plate do you mean crackling the nickel plating?

I guess he meant the thin copper jacket plating of the Cam Pro bullets.
 
Yep, that must bark quite a bit!


Dsiwy
I am going to purchase dies tomorrow at local cabelas as i want to ready loads asap (vs waiting for shipping)
The crimp in this caliber looks touchy from what i read in your post.
Ordered starline brass, brass coloured and NOT nickel plated, so by cracking the plate do you mean crackling the nickel plating?

Out of my desert eagle it makes a nice fireball, but it's more powerfull (higher velocity) and more accurate than commercial 44mag. Recoil is also less snappy, so it's perceived as less recoilly than commercial. If you're standing next to me you feel the wall moving, but for the shooter it's a lot less unpleasant than faster powders.

Dwisy means cracking the copper jacket of the bullet.
 
Yep makes sense

Campro are cheap afterall, not like it’s top quality.
But keeps the cost of reloading down.

Last reload question, do you guys trim your brass?
I never do and never did in 9mm, always have in 308, just wonder for this one.
A book would say trim it, but want to know what the common reloader does
 
Trim bottleneck. Don't trim straightwall.

Campros are good enough. They make reloading for 44 economical enough, and the quality is good enough for handguns. We had a similar discussion about campros 357 on the reloading forum, and after tests, I found out the campros were less accurate than more expensive bullets, but that it only makes a difference if I use handrests. Since I never do, it doesn't make any difference to me.
 
Perfect thanks for reply

Did same test when i once owned an SV infinity standard gun.
Comparing 180gr campro to zero.
Zeros we’re more accurate.
Even standing without rest could be felt to some extent

The difference was marginal enough that it couldn’t outweigh the economy
 
Was thinking 1000fps with 240gr should be sufficient

That's only slightly hotter than full house 45ACP and is no issue in a big, heavy revolver. I get around 1000fps under 245gr cast with 8.0gr of WW231. Your Campro's should be very similar to that.


Remember use Mag primers only, med to heavy roll crimp "with out cracking bullets" and stay in the mid to upper powder load range.

I have used nothing but regular primers with no issues at all, from pop gun to full house loads.


The Lee FCD eat the brass like a beaver with broken teeth and is not a good choice if you want your brass to last, plus the crimp looks awful. I am going the try the redding crimp die next as my final try at cutting the bullet creep down to under 0.010".

I have the Lee FCD and it works good for me with no issues. Redding should solve any of your die problems, they make a premium product that usually works very well.


Last reload question, do you guys trim your brass?

Check length on brass that is new to you and check it after a couple loading cycles. I watched mine for a while then stopped caring as it never changed at all. Bottleneck cartridges grow from the sizing process, straight wall almost never do.


Mark
 
That’s what i have been reading Mark, that 1000FPS with 240gr is considered mild.
Comming from a 9mm/357/40SW world for many years, still didn’t get the concept that this revolver is a beast.

What i’ll do, is start with campros recommended minimum for tite group, chrono and see where it sets me.
From searching and reading the reload section, nothing wrong or too hot about a 240gr bullet going 1250fps.
 
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