Flame bluing.
- Thread starter Cole
- Start date
Not too many people still do fire-bluing (also called nitre-bluing) the old fashioned way. It's a very complicated and time consuming process and while the results are absolutely stunning, it's not a durable finish like case hardening or rust bluing.
Some high end gunsmiths and manufacturers still do it for small parts, mostly screws, triggers, levers, etc. Doug Turnbull, Westley-Richards and Holland & Holland comes to mind but unless you're made of money, it's unobtanium for the common mortals.
You can buy a bluing salts kit that kind of mimic the fire-blue finish but results aren't the same in my opinion.
Some high end gunsmiths and manufacturers still do it for small parts, mostly screws, triggers, levers, etc. Doug Turnbull, Westley-Richards and Holland & Holland comes to mind but unless you're made of money, it's unobtanium for the common mortals.
You can buy a bluing salts kit that kind of mimic the fire-blue finish but results aren't the same in my opinion.
Hard to control the temperature, but it can work.
An electronic, temperature controlled oven work better.
Clean, polish, heat to the color temperature you desire.
Do an images search for color temper charts and you will get the idea.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempe...Tempering_standards_used_in_blacksmithing.JPG
Northern Amateur
CGN frequent flyer
I have done it using an oven as well as a propane torch. Hitting the right temperature is key as you can easily over heat. A little practice and you'll get the hang of it. I practiced on some mild steel along with some Lee dies. There are some guides on the internet for temp range and colour however you still need to experiment some as these are only guides. Hint, once you get near the colour you want, move the flame to another area and let it settle/cool down some. The colours change quick so pay attention and try to heat as evenly as you can.
If you're using an oven, start at a lower temperature and go up from there. Good luck!
If you're using an oven, start at a lower temperature and go up from there. Good luck!
Very interesting Thanks for this
Take a piece of flat bar (1/4x3) depending on part size. Anchor flat bar, heat end, enough for part size, red hot. Put can of oil under, place part on red hot flat bar, when it turns to the color of blue you like tip into oil. Found it looks pretty but not durable.
I built a nitre bluing tank and get some very nice colours depending on the temperature. A few degrees or a change in steel composition makes a difference. Here is a pic of my tank before the nitre is melted, after parts are in in and some arts I nitre blued. I only polish to 400 grit so parts don’t get too shiny but if you high polish the colour pops even more.
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look at the screws
I think that's what the OP was referring to;
Early production (1912) Colt 1911 commercial with nitre-blue controls, trigger and hammer.
Doug Turnbull's, I read somewhere he still uses charcoal and animal bones like they used to do in the old days.
Early production (1912) Colt 1911 commercial with nitre-blue controls, trigger and hammer.
Doug Turnbull's, I read somewhere he still uses charcoal and animal bones like they used to do in the old days.
Founda guy in Rotten Monkey house that can do it for me. Don's Gunsmithing. He quoted me $100.00. I think that is fair given that for me to buy the salts and equipment to to the job myself I would more than likely be into it for over $250.00
