Over/Under Not Firing

[The Flint&Fly Guy]

I have a double trigger cz mallard 20g.
It workrd fine for the first three boxes (i bought it new)
In the beginning of the fourth box it stopped firing, all opperates as normal other than that it does not fire and it feels like the triggers dont have as much motion as when it worked, but not sure on that last point.

 

[The Flint&Fly Guy]

I took the stock off thinking maybe the hammers where catching up on the wood, but no.
It seems as though the hammers are slightly overcocked, the sear of the hammer is approx 1mm away from from the sear surface of the trigger, so the trigger cant release it as the two dont seem to be engaged. (Unless im missing something)

 

[The Flint&Fly Guy]

 

[Dogfish858]

Try changing ammo brands. May be that basic. Then check that the safety is within adjustment. Then check that the forend fit is proper en re the cocking arms. My guess is it's the safety.

 

[The Flint&Fly Guy]

Its not ammo as it will not even dry fire (bad idea i know, i just had to check though!)

 

[The Flint&Fly Guy]

Safety on
Safety off
The trigger block moves out of the way, but i wonder what those wires are for? They are the prime suspects to me!

 

['Boo]

This is a silly question but are you sure the safety is working properly?

 

[The Flint&Fly Guy]

Not at all! The triggerblock function of the safety works (not much that could go wrong there) but those two wires i believe are part of the issue, when the safety is “safe” it pushes those wires down by a couple millimetres, and moving the safety lever forward to “fire” relaxes the end of the wires. What that does im not sure

 

[The Flint&Fly Guy]

Ok, an update.
Its not the safety
It has to do with the cocking bar and the cam that pushes the hammers into full ####, this cam seems to be camming ove to far and getting stuck, thus holding the hammers up instead of releasing them onto the sears.

 

[Twan]

Not at all! The triggerblock function of the safety works (not much that could go wrong there) but those two wires i believe are part of the issue, when the safety is “safe” it pushes those wires down by a couple millimetres, and moving the safety lever forward to “fire” relaxes the end of the wires. What that does im not sure

You just defined the springs that allow the safety to be engaged and disengaged, and held in place.

 

[kamlooky]

Dunnoh, what would happen if those springs were on the top side of the pins they ride on?

 

[farshot]

If you want to try something yourself, I would disconnect the safety and see how it works. It should be very easy to do.
With the fore-end off, do the transfer coking bars move back and forth freely?
They may be getting hung up with something and not allowing the hammer drop to occur fully.

 

[The Flint&Fly Guy]

So I've got the verdict. it turned out to be that the machining and drilling (pin holes) was very rough and the burs were the issue that was causing things to hang up. I polished it with some ceramic sharpening stones I had on hand. (10,000grit might be a little more than needed but at least it wasn't removing much at all, took 15min to take down a small bur!) after that was done it operated as Smooth as could be!
the guns now been used on 6 waterfowl hunts with great success, I definitely like the low recoil of the 20g. but I think I'm gonna try a semi-auto 20 now!

 

[LouCoassin]

Its not ammo as it will not even dry fire (bad idea i know, i just had to check though!)

Dry firing isn't that bad for a centerfire. It's more for rimfire where the flat firing pin has a chance of striking the rear of the breech and peening the metal.