Factory long range rifle that is cold-bore accurate?

350 Mag

350 Mag

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Is there ANY factory made rifle that will shoot first 3 shots sub-MOA...? Cold-bore (fouled barrel).

I have several rifles that group very well once warmed up.

I want something that POI will not change as barrel heats up....or am I looking for a Unicorn?
 
caver77 said:
It's all about your process. Everything should be fairly predictable. Spend some time on YouTube with tibasaurusrex/rex reviews.
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I agree IF it's consistent to just zero it to cold bore for hunting rifle.

I shoot groups to load develop but for hunting shots I map the cold bore over several shooting sessions and zero the rifle for a one-shot kill.
 
350 Mag said:
Is there ANY factory made rifle that will shoot first 3 shots sub-MOA...? Cold-bore (fouled barrel).

I have several rifles that group very well once warmed up.

I want something that POI will not change as barrel heats up....or am I looking for a Unicorn?
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My AW does. Clean, cold, fouled, it has never cared and is on it's 2nd barrel now.

I would expect the same from any quality SWS (pgw, dt, ect). As long as the barrel is properly stress relieved and of a med palma or heavier profile there should be no problems.
 
My cold bore in most if not all of my rifles is less than 3/4" off the POA of where my rifle/scope was set with a warm bbl . So with my hunting rifle I know where it shoots the first shot 1/2-3/4" left,right , high or low and aim appropriately then if any follow up shots are nessesary the crosshairs are now on zero .

And my TRG and CTR in 308 both shoot cold bore 5 shot groups (every time unless the fault is me or my Ammo )that are less than 1 moa
Maybe others do also but I couldn't claim every time with any of my hunting rifles with the liter bbls
 
Lots of rifles will shoot MOA from cold. Some only do it from cold and turn to dog#### when they warm up. A few will put the cold bore so far out of the following group that as far as I'm concerned they are useless for hunting. Some will shoot better when they are hot, and some will walk as they warm up. Which barrel you have will be only be determined by shooting it.

Maybe its just age making me cranky, but I've come to accept that if a barrel doesn't shoot the way you want to use it just get rid of it. It's so easy to throw good money after bad. Barrels are expendable, and even the best makers can put out a dog.
 
When my savage was all factory, would throw sub moa 5 shot groups easy.
Only rule i had to observe was keeping the bore uncared for.
Whenever i cleaned the bore, even just powder fouling without getting to the copper, my next range visit would have a first larger group and then settle.
 
Dogleg said:
Lots of rifles will shoot MOA from cold. Some only do it from cold and turn to dog#### when they warm up. A few will put the cold bore so far out of the following group that as far as I'm concerned they are useless for hunting. Some will shoot better when they are hot, and some will walk as they warm up. Which barrel you have will be only be determined by shooting it.

Maybe its just age making me cranky, but I've come to accept that if a barrel doesn't shoot the way you want to use it just get rid of it. It's so easy to throw good money after bad. Barrels are expendable, and even the best makers can put out a dog.
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This has been my experience also and I also get rid of a rifle that won't cooperate - my comment above is about the rifles I have kept , I haven't had too many bad rifles but when I thin the herd I keep my MOST accurate hunting rifles except when at times I had a cheaper rifle say a CZ that shot as well as a sako that was more cash sitting in the safe

Sorry started to ramble , but ditto to d leg
 
MartyK2500 said:
When my savage was all factory, would throw sub moa 5 shot groups easy.
Only rule i had to observe was keeping the bore uncared for.
Whenever i cleaned the bore, even just powder fouling without getting to the copper, my next range visit would have a first larger group and then settle.
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I also have several factory rifles that shoot sub-MOA with handloads....

NONE will shoot sub MOA from cold bore...usually takes 1-2 shots to warm up.
 
Have you tried not cleaning the bore from visit to visit?
A factory savage 10TR which is worth nothing more than 650$ would sub moa 5 shot group on cold bore.

Just throwing this out there may be completely beside the point,
Is load dev properly done, using powder that’s not sensitive to temp variations, and do you chamber the round several seconds in advance before shooting?

Let’s say you’re right under your node, but keeping the round chambered cooks it to the propper node.
This may be way too far fetched i know, but if you don’t clean the bore and a 600$ el cheapo savage can do it, i tend to believe any gun could.
 
Sorry but there is no "cold bore". This has been disproven by many shooters, and the cold bore theory doesn't make sense from an engineering standpoint. Go to any top precision rifle training course in the USA and they will tell you that it is a myth. An instructor with C/S 66 has disproven this in front of a class recently as well. Frank Galli has disproven this. Numerous shooters (especially in the US) have disproven this.

None of my rifles have a "cold bore" shift. Sometimes I've yanked one, but there is no correlation between a cold bore in any of my rifles and a shift. Funny enough, none of my close shooting friends experience a cold bore shift either.

Cold bore is actually a cold shooter, or it could be the difference between a fouled and unfouled bore. But it's not from the barrel or chamber being "cold" - that simply doesn't make sense.

I will state that a good quality barrels will obviously be important in consistent and repeatable precision (and just as importantly, a good chamber job). This is why I suggest barrel brands such as Bartlein, Krieger, Benchmark, Brux, Rock Creek. You get what you pay for, and cheaper barrels are cheaper for a reason.
 
IF you actually bothered to read Frank's article you will see that it is possible for a rifle to have a cold bore shift...but it's not a normal condition...meaning there is something wrong with rifle, or barrel.

As we all know factory rifles can have all sorts of issues with stocks, barrels not free-floated etc.

So do not say it's a myth....
 
350 Mag said:
IF you actually bothered to read Frank's article you will see that it is possible for a rifle to have a cold bore shift...but it's not a normal condition...meaning there is something wrong with rifle, or barrel.

As we all know factory rifles can have all sorts of issues with stocks, barrels not free-floated etc.

So do not say it's a myth....
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Many other highly reputably shooters have disproven the myth of the cold bore shot. Perhaps something is off and you are experiencing a wandering zero? I'm only attempting to be helpful, because you can waste a lot of time and ammo chasing a misdiagnosed problem.
 
If your first shot is well placed you will only need one round. I tackled this same question - when I go to the range with my hunting rifle - I take one shot and put it away for an 1/2 hour or so then take another (if they) his the same place from POA - make your adjustment. You next cold bore shot will be dead on. One thing to consider is the weather conditions some powders are temperature sensitive so you would want to make your hunting conditions as close as possible -
 
I am not accomplished enough of a shooter to have much science to back me up. but if my Scope is properly fastened, action properly torqued, ammo the est it can be, I generally do not have an issue with a 'Cold Bore' shot.
I have noticed it takes me 2-3 rounds to settle in, especially if it has been a week since i picked up a rifle or shot anything. I attribute those throwaways to me.

Does it prove anything? I think it does. More practice, I find that I have less ''Cold Bore'' issues. So I personally believe it is the shooter who is cold.
 
I have a kimber mountain accent in 280ai .. I did all my load development with a cold clean bore.. quite the task and very time consuming...
It was worth the time, I cant have a barrel in the field that is not oiled and sealed from the elements..
My rifle will put the first 2 shots on top of each other ,the 3rd shot goes high and left..
Cold bore mapping can help you find the difference between P.O.I. with different barrel conditions. ....
Take into consideration this is a pencil barrel for hunting..
Not a target rifle..

Happy unicorn hunting
 
350 Mag said:
IF you actually bothered to read Frank's article you will see that it is possible for a rifle to have a cold bore shift...but it's not a normal condition...meaning there is something wrong with rifle, or barrel.

As we all know factory rifles can have all sorts of issues with stocks, barrels not free-floated etc.

So do not say it's a myth....
Click to expand...

Buy a rifle that doesn't have problems.
 
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