Wk180-C technical questions & answers only

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Paul_T said:
Yes - here's the manual

https://www.wolverinesupplies.com/Resources/en/ItemDocuments/KODWK180CONLINE/KODWK180CONLINE.pdf

It does not list the spec for the torque on the barrel nut so not sure what Kodiak recommends. AR (15's) are normally 30 ft-lb then index to the next notch (in this case next set of holes that line up with the handguard).
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Ok thanks, mine is turning out to be an issue. I tried tightening it a bit and re installed the handguard but it was not enough torque so it loosened off again. I cranked it tighter but now the screw holes won’t line up. There is no way I can crank it enough to get to the next set of holes.
So I guess the nut face needs to be ground down a bit so it can be properly cranked down to the next set of holes. I’m not messing with that so I guess it’s going back for warranty service. I’m kind of surprised it made it out of the shop with a loose nut like that.
 
flyinlead said:
Ok thanks, mine is turning out to be an issue. I tried tightening it a bit and re installed the handguard but it was not enough torque so it loosened off again. I cranked it tighter but now the screw holes won’t line up. There is no way I can crank it enough to get to the next set of holes.
So I guess the nut face needs to be ground down a bit so it can be properly cranked down to the next set of holes. I’m not messing with that so I guess it’s going back for warranty service. I’m kind of surprised it made it out of the shop with a loose nut like that.
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Barrel nut shims will fix your problem.
 
jiffx2781 said:
Barrel nut shims will fix your problem.
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Thanks, I was just researching google and YouTube about this very thing. What other tools do I need to torque this nut? Something to hold the receiver or can I just hold it in a regular vice? What’s the best wrench for the nut?
Will this affect the headspace?
With shims this will be easy and I really don’t want to send the rifle off.
 
flyinlead said:
Thanks, I was just researching google and YouTube about this very thing. What other tools do I need to torque this nut? Something to hold the receiver or can I just hold it in a regular vice? What’s the best wrench for the nut?
Will this affect the headspace?
With shims this will be easy and I really don’t want to send the rifle off.
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Headspace will only be affected if the shims are placed in a way that causes the chamber of the barrel to sit further forward away from the receiver.
I'm not familiar with nut shims for the ar15 but I would hazard to guess they do not do this. It would resolve one issue of achieving proper torque but cause a much worse and potentially dangerous issue.
 
Travis Bickle said:
Headspace will only be affected if the shims are placed in a way that causes the chamber of the barrel to sit further forward away from the receiver.
I'm not familiar with nut shims for the ar15 but I would hazard to guess they do not do this. It would resolve one issue of achieving proper torque but cause a much worse and potentially dangerous issue.
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Yes, you are shimming the nut, not the barrel.
 
I remember someone looking for a solution to find a shim to tighten up the upper and lower like the accuwedge. Did anyone find a solution in the end?
 
bleaches said:
I remember someone looking for a solution to find a shim to tighten up the upper and lower like the accuwedge. Did anyone find a solution in the end?
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I don't have an accu-wedge to test but the WK lower has a hole machined in the back where a wedge would fit - don't see why the accu-wedge would not work, possibly with some cutting/modification.
 
Paul_T said:
I don't have an accu-wedge to test but the WK lower has a hole machined in the back where a wedge would fit - don't see why the accu-wedge would not work, possibly with some cutting/modification.
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I've tighten up my wk180c reciever with a shim. The
lug that fits into the hole in the receiver is 0.4005 inches. The hole itself is 0.4050 inches. For the time being I placed a piece of painters tape on one side of the lug and now I have absolutely no play with the receivers. It's tight enough that it doesn't wobble but not tight enough to make disassembly a hassle. I would not recommend using an accuwedge or placing a rubber shim in the receiver hole because that would cause the takedown button to rub on the inside of the upper receiver. Eventually the upper will wear and it'll start wobbling again. I will post pics when I get home from my trip. Funny how painters tape is exactly 0.0050 inches :p
 
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Drift117 said:
I've tighten up my wk180c reciever with a shim. The
lug that fits into the hole in the receiver is 0.4005 inches. The hole itself is 0.4050 inches. For the time being I placed a piece of painters tape on one side of the lug and now I have absolutely no play with the receivers. It's tight enough that it doesn't wobble but not tight enough to make disassembly a hassle. I would not recommend using an accuwedge or placing a rubber shim in the receiver hole because that would cause the takedown button to rub on the inside of the upper receiver. Eventually the upper will wear and it'll start wobbling again. I will post pics when I get home from my trip. Funny how painters tape is exactly 0.0050 inches :p
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Thanks. Looking forward to the pictures. Ya the accuwedge wouldn't work on the WK because the rear of the receiver does not have an ear on the bottom for the pin to go through the lower receiver like an AR.
 
Yeah I think a possible solution would be to file down a channel for an o-ring maybe even 2. That would tighten up the receiver perfectly.
 
lmar said:
No machining necessary - there is a chamfer around the bottom slot that allows for the use of a standard O-ring.

See

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...-upper-play-removal-simple-and-cheap-solution

L
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That seems to add upwards pressure on the upper which was what i was trying to avoid. I think having orings on near the top and bottom of the lug would be better because it uses lateral pressure to tighten up the lug. Any upwards pressure causes torque on the disassembly button, upper receiver, and recoil guide base would wear it out eventually.
 
Drift117 said:
That seems to add upwards pressure on the upper which was what i was trying to avoid. I think having orings on near the top and bottom of the lug would be better because it uses lateral pressure to tighten up the lug. Any upwards pressure causes torque on the disassembly button, upper receiver, and recoil guide base would wear it out eventually.
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Better yet would be a properly sized lug (at least side to side) that wouldn't require a "Fix".

L
 
What is the distance from the muzzle to the lower tip of the handguard? I'm guessing 5.7" since the barrel is 18.7" and the handguard is 13"? Thinking to fit a barrel shroud on it.
 
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