Marstar Swedish 8mm surplus ammo
- Thread starter Deathrawt
- Start date
- Location
- Algoma, ON
Thats promising! I'm still waiting for mine to be shipped....
I'm just in the process of stripping mine down so nice to hear there's no problems with it as is
So far everything that I have stripped (about 200rounds), the powder has been good, ie no discoloration or clumping/signs of contamination so should be good once reloaded into the 8x57 cases
So far everything that I have stripped (about 200rounds), the powder has been good, ie no discoloration or clumping/signs of contamination so should be good once reloaded into the 8x57 cases
#1bcshooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- North Of The DMZ (US border)
What color are the primers on the stuff you just got ?
Many years ago when the first batch of that ammo came in, I purchased a rather large quantity. When the Can Par truck brought it to my place, he informed me they loaded the pallet with a fork lift and the cases were to heavy to lift. It actually came as two deliveries of five cases each.
I had all sorts of plans for shooting it all but it just didn't work out. Pulling the bullets was a chore as well so I quit doing that after a thousand or so.
One thing I found, was that my lots had two different powders, different charge weight and shape. Not really a problem, both lots shot to the same point of aim out of the RC K98 I rechambered with the reamer I purchased for the job.
It was a great round all around. The bullet weights were far more consistent than I expected from machinegun ammo as were the charge weights of the powder. As far as concentricity goes they were very close to match quality.
The bullets held accuracy out past 600 meters easily. Alas, they weren't ever used on anything but one very unlucky Coyote. However, after pulling the bullets I reloaded the cases with the salvaged powder and replaced them with 196 grain Oryx bullets of which John from Marstar had managed to scrape up several boxes and just threw them in. Good guy.
I experimented with the powder until I was getting 2300 fps appx average over a Chrony. Yes, the load was stout but so was the rifle and I didn't see any sign of pressure.
The K98 really didn't like the ORYX bullets. Not sure why as it shot the longer steel core bullets very well.
I had a few people tell me the action wasn't strong enough. NOT TRUE, The Swedes converted a lot of K98 rifles for this round, most of which went to Israel and were converted to 7.62x51. I don't believe pressures were much over 50k psi.
To make a long story short, I came across a heavy profile 8mm Rem Mag barrel at a gun show and there was enough mass to set it back far enough so I could thread it for mounting on a Ruger #1. BIG MISTAKE as far as felt RECOIL goes but the rifle was accurate. IMHO Ruger #1 rifles shoot much better with heavy profile barrels than their standard factory sporter profile.
I shot about 200 rounds out of that Ruger and took two Elk and a Black Bear with it over two seasons. The Elk both went down within 50 feet of where they were hit with one shot. The Bear required a second shot as I misjudged the distance and put the first bullet through the left shoulder and it exited out his chest because of the quartering angle. Put that Bear down though and it didn't run. Now that's serious energy.
About the only other cartridge I can compare its performance to is the 338-06. There's no reason the round couldn't be loaded faster other than I couldn't handle the recoil.
That was the end of the experiment. I pulled that barrel, cut back the chamber area and made up a sporter 8x57. I eventually sold off everything including the K98 barrel, which I pulled as well. It all went in two batches. One fellow only wanted the cartridges and the other fellow wanted everything I had left pertaining to the cartridge, including packaging. I had sold off all the belts previously and they almost paid for the whole shipment.
OP, if you aren't recoil shy, BERDAN PRIMERS are available for reloading. Reamers are available but sporting 8mm barrels can be difficult to come by. At the price of RC k98s these days, it's cheaper to pick up a used, PROVEN STRONG REMINGTON or WINCHESTER and rebarrel it for your cartridge.
TURF THE LIBERALS IN 2019
Liberals really like POOR people, they're making more of them every day
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I had all sorts of plans for shooting it all but it just didn't work out. Pulling the bullets was a chore as well so I quit doing that after a thousand or so.
One thing I found, was that my lots had two different powders, different charge weight and shape. Not really a problem, both lots shot to the same point of aim out of the RC K98 I rechambered with the reamer I purchased for the job.
It was a great round all around. The bullet weights were far more consistent than I expected from machinegun ammo as were the charge weights of the powder. As far as concentricity goes they were very close to match quality.
The bullets held accuracy out past 600 meters easily. Alas, they weren't ever used on anything but one very unlucky Coyote. However, after pulling the bullets I reloaded the cases with the salvaged powder and replaced them with 196 grain Oryx bullets of which John from Marstar had managed to scrape up several boxes and just threw them in. Good guy.
I experimented with the powder until I was getting 2300 fps appx average over a Chrony. Yes, the load was stout but so was the rifle and I didn't see any sign of pressure.
The K98 really didn't like the ORYX bullets. Not sure why as it shot the longer steel core bullets very well.
I had a few people tell me the action wasn't strong enough. NOT TRUE, The Swedes converted a lot of K98 rifles for this round, most of which went to Israel and were converted to 7.62x51. I don't believe pressures were much over 50k psi.
To make a long story short, I came across a heavy profile 8mm Rem Mag barrel at a gun show and there was enough mass to set it back far enough so I could thread it for mounting on a Ruger #1. BIG MISTAKE as far as felt RECOIL goes but the rifle was accurate. IMHO Ruger #1 rifles shoot much better with heavy profile barrels than their standard factory sporter profile.
I shot about 200 rounds out of that Ruger and took two Elk and a Black Bear with it over two seasons. The Elk both went down within 50 feet of where they were hit with one shot. The Bear required a second shot as I misjudged the distance and put the first bullet through the left shoulder and it exited out his chest because of the quartering angle. Put that Bear down though and it didn't run. Now that's serious energy.
About the only other cartridge I can compare its performance to is the 338-06. There's no reason the round couldn't be loaded faster other than I couldn't handle the recoil.
That was the end of the experiment. I pulled that barrel, cut back the chamber area and made up a sporter 8x57. I eventually sold off everything including the K98 barrel, which I pulled as well. It all went in two batches. One fellow only wanted the cartridges and the other fellow wanted everything I had left pertaining to the cartridge, including packaging. I had sold off all the belts previously and they almost paid for the whole shipment.
OP, if you aren't recoil shy, BERDAN PRIMERS are available for reloading. Reamers are available but sporting 8mm barrels can be difficult to come by. At the price of RC k98s these days, it's cheaper to pick up a used, PROVEN STRONG REMINGTON or WINCHESTER and rebarrel it for your cartridge.
TURF THE LIBERALS IN 2019
Liberals really like POOR people, they're making more of them every day
If you can't vote CPC, stay at home in protest
I basically wanted this stuff for the belts/powder/bullets to reload in 8x57 for my k98 and mg34. I don't think it's worth trying to ream or rebarrel something to use this ammo
I asked about the feasability of removing the primers only for if someone wanted them to use for their own reloading purpose
If anyone wants my empty brass with primers you can have them you just have to cover shipping costs from me to you or come get them
It would be nice if someone could use them for something rather then going to waste
I asked about the feasability of removing the primers only for if someone wanted them to use for their own reloading purpose
If anyone wants my empty brass with primers you can have them you just have to cover shipping costs from me to you or come get them
It would be nice if someone could use them for something rather then going to waste
#1bcshooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- North Of The DMZ (US border)
Belts wont fit an MG34
silver/brass same as the batch from years ago
a question for the 1919 owners I have us ww2 30 cal ammo cans (flaming bomb on the end) anyways whats the trick to getting the 250rnd cloth belts in the can try as I might I cant remember how I did it before and every attempt I have 1 layer to thick to get the lid to close let alone latch
#1bcshooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- North Of The DMZ (US border)
I have lot's in those cans . Can't say exactly how it's done but it did take a few try's .
A lot of my primers are almost black in color
- Location
- Algoma, ON
Got my shipping notice earlier today. Should have it in a week or so. Have to say I'm quite excited. Haha
- Location
- Algoma, ON
Shipping to Newfoundland for 2 crates via Canpar was 230. Yours can't possibly be much worse than that.
I have tweaked the "Andy" method of stripping the bullets and it took me 2 hours to strip an entire belt of 250 rounds. Under the supervision of Andy the first time we found out that the brass is brittle around the neck. So with strong hands you can "crack" the brass and easily remove the bullet without spilling a grain of powder. I tried out the powder and bullets in 8x57 Mauser and got excellent results. 45gr will get you 2250 fps in a K98. The projectiles are long giving lots of good contact with the rifling. I am looking forward to trying more recipes at longer ranges.
At the price of the returned belt, 30 cents a projectile, and 25$ a lb of this surplus powder I calculated each belt nets $134.50 in components. I am giving away the brass to a friend who will deprime it himself and sell it for the metal.
For $40 a belt that's a great bargain. However once you add in shipping it brings the "profitability" factor down quite a bit.
Unless you A) buy a massive order with friends and split the crazy shipping prices, or B) are lucky enough like me and live driving distance to Marstar, it's likely not a worthwhile venture. However with A or B it's a no brainer. The values I put on the belt, projectile, powder are on the low side as well - to factor in the labour time. IMR 4064 is $33.75 a pound at Higginson's if you buy 8lbs of it. Hornady 323 jacketed bullets start at 43 cents.
I am pretty happy with this stuff but it's too bad all those cheap 8x63 MG barrels at Sarco can't be brought up here. Until that happens this is really component use only.
Cheers,
At the price of the returned belt, 30 cents a projectile, and 25$ a lb of this surplus powder I calculated each belt nets $134.50 in components. I am giving away the brass to a friend who will deprime it himself and sell it for the metal.
For $40 a belt that's a great bargain. However once you add in shipping it brings the "profitability" factor down quite a bit.
Unless you A) buy a massive order with friends and split the crazy shipping prices, or B) are lucky enough like me and live driving distance to Marstar, it's likely not a worthwhile venture. However with A or B it's a no brainer. The values I put on the belt, projectile, powder are on the low side as well - to factor in the labour time. IMR 4064 is $33.75 a pound at Higginson's if you buy 8lbs of it. Hornady 323 jacketed bullets start at 43 cents.
I am pretty happy with this stuff but it's too bad all those cheap 8x63 MG barrels at Sarco can't be brought up here. Until that happens this is really component use only.
Cheers,
