Tenifer, Glock, and “Toughness” - One season’s guiding & bushpiloting on a G40

savagelh said:
I'm not a guide in the backcountry or any coastal region, I've never even hunted near the coast. But I can only assume sidearm maintenance is near the bottom of the long daily to do list. It's not like he can be back at a base camp or cabin every night with time to spare and proper cleaning kits and lubes at hand.
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I guess so, I only meant something like a daily field strip, hose with CLP and wipe excess with a rag a few minutes max. But again I don’t know if it would fix his issues, just that it would be a lot better than what he’s doing now.

Ardent said:
Bingo. Might be lucky to get five hours when solo guiding, and usually wake up hourly to check boats and planes in the 20 foot tide swings and storms. A gun that I have to fiddle with daily in non existent personal time will be a no go and not make the cut, ideally it should run maintenance free for the duration of a trip aside from oiling. I still think the Glock can do it, and have received only one failure to fire which fortunately was on the range, but it will likely take a more intensive maintenance and parts cycling regimen. As long as that can happen after the season, I’ll continue to make it work. Wake up call Glocks aren’t invincible, is what this was. We don’t see this with only Glocks, outboards, gear and packs, stoves, all suffer.
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Pretty brutal schedule for sure. All I can say though is drop the wd and maybe just try a schedule of CLP and a quick wipe at the end of the day bet you could get it down to under a minute, I’m just an armchair commando at this point as I will never get to try it myself.
 
Ardent said:
Yep, and that it is. Heavier stuff like Eezox which I have too can easily gum up a light striker assembly like in the Glock. I do use it on bolt actions and double rifles however, they’re less sensitive and finicky.

WD40 matches cosmoline for at least 72 hours, and makes CLP look very bad. I generally WD the G40 every couple days.
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Again, as long as nothing displaces it. Based on my own experience I'd be using Mobil 1 or some other thin synthetic motor oil.
 
Forget WD40. If you think it’s working take another look at your Glock!! Using wd40 is up there with putting your M14 in the dishwasher!

G96 it. Spray it down and let it soak in. Then shell Roteilla 0w40 t6 diesel oil. It’s inexpensive. Quick wipe and add a bit every now and then. It won’t gum up and is good in cold or heat. Also it keeps the use of expensive g96 down to a minimum. Plus if you actually shoot the gun it’s a very quick clean as the carbon wipes off.

Bottom line whether it’s two legged or four legged Apex predators your firearm has to be in good operational condition. That piece of questionable rusty POS you are carrying is a liability!
 
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Ardent said:
If that assessment’s accurate of what it takes to make a Glock run in coastal conditions, it may well not be the gun for the job. One of my coworker’s ATC’d Smith .44 goes through the same and receives zero attention aside from WD, doesn’t miss a beat. I suspect the striker firing is the issue here, much lighter spring pressures.

Big fan of the Glock and shoot it more naturally than any other, love the light weight on the hip, the 10mm Glock frame is also the most comfortable for my hand. This said if it gets to daily tear downs and oiling that tears into the already too slim sleep time I get after getting the boats and planes secured then waking up again first in camp to do it all again, and it ain’t going to happen and will be forced to seek a less sensitive alternative.
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I don't understand how a metal revolver doesn't rust with zero attention...

a heavy weight oil as has been mentioned might help? (not some space age clp but an oil)

I've seen some pictures of glocks daily carried in the southern US (TN/FL) that have similar rust as your pictures
 
I've hunted lots in salt water environment, and when using blued firearms always fought losing battle with rust, even with daily maintenance. But I don't know if your problem is actually rust. Despite having 2 Glocks I'm not at all as enthusiastic about them as you are, although for a "carry" gun Glocks and some other polymer pistols can be desirable, and it's a pretty solid choice for your purposes.

My Glocks get shot lots, and light strikes can be an issue after a few thousand rounds so replacing the recoil spring can help. I don't know how much yours gets shot but I would put in a new recoil and striker spring in at the start of the season and possibly look at a Wolf Extra Power Spring. When the recoil spring gets tired, it can cause the firearm to not go fully back into battery and you will get a "click" instead of a bang. There is a simple test for checking this.

WD40 can be great but it can also get gummy. And if some of it is getting down your striker pin channel (which is supposed to be dry and free of lubricant) then that could be causing a problem. G96 is what I would be using, despite the tests.

If your springs are new and functioning properly, I suggest you pop off the slide every day which takes about 30 seconds and check to make sure everything is moving, but don't load up the slide internals with WD40. Then I would shoot a couple of rounds every day to make sure things are working. I know, you aren't supposed to do that, so maybe dry fire with some primed cases instead.

Also, I'm assuming these are factory rounds and not handloads, which could be one other thing to look at.
 
Angus,

there is a better corrosion resistant wd40 on the market. the box color is different.

h t t p s ://www.wd40specialist.com/products/corrosion-inhibitor/

h t t p s ://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=398836&start=100

h t t p ://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

enjoy the reading.
 
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Try marine spring cups and see if that resolves the no strike issue. It should free up the firing pin more when dirty/water is in channel.
 
Epoxy7 said:
Forget WD40. If you think it’s working take another look at your Glock!! Using wd40 is up there with putting your M14 in the dishwasher!

G96 it. Spray it down and let it soak in. Then shell Roteilla 0w40 t6 diesel oil. It’s inexpensive. Quick wipe and add a bit every now and then. It won’t gum up and is good in cold or heat. Also it keeps the use of expensive g96 down to a minimum. Plus if you actually shoot the gun it’s a very quick clean as the carbon wipes off.

Bottom line whether it’s two legged or four legged Apex predators your firearm has to be in good operational condition. That piece of questionable rusty POS you are carrying is a liability!
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I’ve actually used a good deal of motor oil on guns as it’s handy and well priced, just aviation oil from the floatplane and it has the most in common with diesel oil just with more staying power. The WD actually works better when applied every few days, same found in the test I put up there, but I don’t expect you to believe me. :d Motor oil doesn’t work great in marine conditions, it’s quickly washed off and drips lovely rainbows in every pool you walk through. You still in Langley? I’m on the south coast fairly frequently we should meet and swap foreskin john stories one lunch. :d


Porkchopsandwhich said:
I don't understand how a metal revolver doesn't rust with zero attention...

a heavy weight oil as has been mentioned might help? (not some space age clp but an oil)

I've seen some pictures of glocks daily carried in the southern US (TN/FL) that have similar rust as your pictures
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The 629 is stainless, and contrary to popular belief it doesn’t rust even in the marine environment. Our family’s diesel / big boat’s anchor is stainless and it rides the bow in the salt spray for the last 30 years, never rinsed, not a mark on it. The 629 looks the same as the anchor and the internals just remain flooded with oil, so they survive. The higher spring forces don’t care about goo, you could pack white lithium grease into the Smith mechanism if you wanted.


Gatehouse said:
I've hunted lots in salt water environment, and when using blued firearms always fought losing battle with rust, even with daily maintenance. But I don't know if your problem is actually rust. Despite having 2 Glocks I'm not at all as enthusiastic about them as you are, although for a "carry" gun Glocks and some other polymer pistols can be desirable, and it's a pretty solid choice for your purposes.

My Glocks get shot lots, and light strikes can be an issue after a few thousand rounds so replacing the recoil spring can help. I don't know how much yours gets shot but I would put in a new recoil and striker spring in at the start of the season and possibly look at a Wolf Extra Power Spring. When the recoil spring gets tired, it can cause the firearm to not go fully back into battery and you will get a "click" instead of a bang. There is a simple test for checking this.

WD40 can be great but it can also get gummy. And if some of it is getting down your striker pin channel (which is supposed to be dry and free of lubricant) then that could be causing a problem. G96 is what I would be using, despite the tests.

If your springs are new and functioning properly, I suggest you pop off the slide every day which takes about 30 seconds and check to make sure everything is moving, but don't load up the slide internals with WD40. Then I would shoot a couple of rounds every day to make sure things are working. I know, you aren't supposed to do that, so maybe dry fire with some primed cases instead.

Also, I'm assuming these are factory rounds and not handloads, which could be one other thing to look at.
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Good point and I may be too quick to blame it on smaller components of the gun, I’m ordering a spring kit, and will look for a stainless and heavier recoil spring. 10mm batters recoil springs of course and it does get shot a good deal, I feel like I could see the slide wasn’t fully seated by a fraction in the shoot on that round too, but was in the middle of the 6 rounds in 5 seconds and just cleared to finish it. Factory PMC 200gr indeed in this case. Indeed it never ends with metal in the salted cold jungle and trying to keep it alive! Doesn’t help bed it often a saturated tent with 150% humidity. :d
 
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Every once in awhile a thread comes along on cgn that's worth reading through. Looking forward to an update as the seasons progress, and more input from guys with zero ATC experience telling you what you're doing wrong :)
 
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justmessing said:
Every once in awhile a thread comes along on cgn that's worth reading through. Looking forward to an update as the seasons progress, and more input from guys with zero ATC experience telling you what you're doing wrong :)
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Epoxy7 carries daily, Gate knows what the working and hunting the north coast is like. For some others it’s not quite going to register what the gun has to endure, and it’s nothing Glock ever designed their guns for.

Speaking wilderness carry guns in general I previously had a Freedom Arms 83 short barrel, a 629 5”, and a Model 69 5 shot .44 Mag. All except the Model 69 were too heavy to carry up a mountain, and I’ll readily admit I couldn’t shoot the Model 69 well. It’s just too light of a .44 and follow ups are a bear, gorgeous little wheelgun though that I wanted to love. The 10mm Glock I shoot instinctively and it hits dead where I point it, feels great in the hand, can more than triple my hits over the light .44 in the same timeframe. I’m a metal, stainless in particular gun guy and it’s a hard sell to move to polymer frames. Til I started carrying and shooting them extensively, now I can’t see a way back and want to make this thing run the 100% I previously figured it did, as it’s just too natural.
 
To be honest if 5min to maintain something that is intended to save your life is to much. Guns may not be the option for you. Also when I said CLP I was not referencing the brand, but the acronym cleaner, lube, protect.

Shawn
 
wayupnorth said:
keep us updated with what you decide to do and what if anything you do to your G40.
or just PM me, cause like i said i have one and im super interested in what yours is doing.
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Just realized I missed your post, glad to hear you run one too. They’re a heck of a gun, shoots even red hot 10mm with nearly no rise just straight back. Sure hang nice on target too with the extra muzzle weight of the long slide. My only pet peeve is they called it a “G40” :p You have to explain from time to time it’s not a .40 S&W.

FreedomIsn'tFree said:
This has the making of a long term, real life, Glock torture and durability test.
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Unintentionally already started I suppose, it’s well behind a Smith 629 for durability and environmental resistance with equal care presently is the only “finding”. I still wouldn’t switch to the big Smith, yet. Those Scandium frame .357 Smiths have my eye, not sure how Scandium does in a high salt / constant moisture environment. If I move from Glock it’s to a stainless gun with a stouter mechanism and spring forces, probably a Smith or Ruger revolver.

NHunter said:
Again....?
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I’m nowhere near my gun presently, it just has little pin prick rust blossoms that wipe away with an oily rag, looks fine from three feet once wiped down.

shawn said:
To be honest if 5min to maintain something that is intended to save your life is to much. Guns may not be the option for you. Also when I said CLP I was not referencing the brand, but the acronym cleaner, lube, protect.

Shawn
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Good for you Shawn. :) My argument is between running planes, boats, camps and trying to put bears to bed the gun that can complete a trip with just oiling is the one for me. On a gun forum it’s easy to imagine care and loving attention is and should be paid at all times to your sidearm. The reality is you need to sleep and the few minutes to tear down may exist but are easily forgotten when you slump into a wet tent in the dark. A Smith wheelgun will take it and survive, and if the Glock won’t I need to look to something older and more boring in design. I think it can with annual parts replacement.

Angus
 
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The rule of thumb with Glock spring replacement is 5000 rounds although many stretch that to double that (I know I have !!)

In your case I would replace them much more often. I would be suspicious of your recoil spring if it’s seen 1000-2000 rounds and it’s been rusted up
 
Ardent said:
I’m nowhere near my gun presently, it just has little pin prick rust blossoms that wipe away with an oily rag, looks fine from three feet once wiped down.

Angus
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Thank for your reply. From what I could see (very little) of the slide in your picture - it looked quite good. Other attached bits were rusty...Tenifer is a great process producing a very durable finish. Would enjoy seeing pictures showing your slide when convenient. Take care out there..
 
I know it is weighty but you might go back to a 629 with a 4.2" barrel. You have to know when you really need the gun it ill go bang. I was under the impression Glock pistols made in the US are not now covered with Tenifer due to environmental concerns. It is the internals I think provide the greatest risk for gun failing to go bang.

I suspect you have already seen the following. Some may not have. Externally Cerakote or similar product might be worth pursuing on your next handgun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlUwOR4Tq10

Here is another more to your concerns:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eJSLPLpF5U

In the end annual or semi annual pistol replacement might end up being your only option.

Take Care and Good Luck raining here today. LOL

Bob
 
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