It might be worth looking at having the barrel treated (TiN, DLC?) in the first Glocks the barrel was tennifer treated too, but I'm guessing that they've stopped that. Someone must make a stainless barrel? Given the purpose you have for the firearm, there are few other end users that see the same environmentals, might want to see what the Navy guys in the States were doing before the GWOT, at that time they were more concentrated on water ops than they are now. I've heard military folks of that era complain about Sig springs failing due to salt water exposure, so I'm not sure what the answer is to those problems other than what Sig did with the "Navy" guns. Interesting to note that the first handgun issued to Seal Team 6 when they were called that, was a Smith 686, specifically due to it's ability to shrug off salt water exposure and continue to function.
Tenifer, Glock, and “Toughness” - One season’s guiding & bushpiloting on a G40
- Thread starter Ardent
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Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I’ve seen that same wheelgun durability in the salt, they are tougher no question. Didn’t know the SEAL history with the Smith, thanks for that, makes perfect sense with what I’ve seen. That’s one environment where the guns see the same conditions for sure.
Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Probably not while they’re on the job, I’d imagine it’s quite the opposite. I can’t imagine them running guns they tear down mid operation nightly. Suspect there’s a reason they were using a gun you typically don’t ever tear down, the 686, at that very wet and salty time in their history.
atf and acetone does wonders on rust, the more you can get off the less quickly it will spread. maybe a second complete slide so you could dump one in an oil bath overnight or back at camp would help make maintenance quicker and easier?
Raining here too Bob!This is an Austrian Glock, to my understanding true good old cynanide tenifer.
As mentioned above couldn’t really give a hoot on finish appearance, but the fine internals and failure to fire sure catch my attention.
Therein lies your challenge. Nothing like having a handgun in your hand that goes click when a bear is listening. Almost as bad as being 100 yards down wind of a mother and a cub with NO handgun in hand. Never again! Drop by if you are in the neighbourhood. Coffee is always on.
Take Care
Bob
Halger280HVMag
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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FWIW....
I remember about fourty years ago, being shown a Smith 66, recently returned from a Halibut fishery.
It was showing a lot of corrosion externally.
The inner works were no longer functional.
The gun was owned by a Gunsmith friend, also a fisherman.
He was very disapointed, having purchased the 66 with the hope of avoiding this sad state of affairs.
Having had other guns in the past, unable to withstand hard use in a salt water environment.
"Stainless" is only stain less.
As for the inner workings.
I have found that a good coating of heavy grease on non-bearing action parts.
The contact points will still be vulnerable.
Faced with a potential life defense situation.
I would consider yearly replacement, an excellent investment in my future!
Glad that you're enjoying your life Angus!
A long way from a Lazair at CSK8 Eh!
I remember about fourty years ago, being shown a Smith 66, recently returned from a Halibut fishery.
It was showing a lot of corrosion externally.
The inner works were no longer functional.
The gun was owned by a Gunsmith friend, also a fisherman.
He was very disapointed, having purchased the 66 with the hope of avoiding this sad state of affairs.
Having had other guns in the past, unable to withstand hard use in a salt water environment.
"Stainless" is only stain less.
As for the inner workings.
I have found that a good coating of heavy grease on non-bearing action parts.
The contact points will still be vulnerable.
Faced with a potential life defense situation.
I would consider yearly replacement, an excellent investment in my future!
Glad that you're enjoying your life Angus!
A long way from a Lazair at CSK8 Eh!
Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
On the subject to stainless, here’s our big boat’s stainless anchor, as old as I am likely. Not a spot on it, despite living outside its entire life on the bow. There are many versions of stainless and the current large frame Smith’s seems pretty darn impervious with WD treatment. And then the G40 working on one of the rare sunny days.
This is an Austrian Glock, to my understanding true good old cynanide tenifer.
Not so sure later models of Glocks like yours have Tenifer. i saw this on another website the specializes in Glocks:
Glock has discontinued the time proven salt bath, Tenifer heat treatment and have gone to a more environmentally friendly "plasma" heat treatment that doesn't carry the old "Tenifer" registered trademark.
Poster when on to complain on how how his Glock 20 and 29 were rusting in a much less harsh use than yours. It seems Tenifer may have stopped being used on all Glocks in 2012 and yours was built after that i think.
Maritime spring cups are a good choice for your use as mentioned already.
Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Good info, did some digging based on your info provided and found Glock pulled the “Tenifer” name from it’s Austrian site a year and a half ago or so. Probably looking at the new finish this gun’s 1.5 years old, right around the change over.
thanks for sharing this experience, a truly eye opener as most people would think these Glocks are invincible. Myself included. I have seen many of these abused but never rusted like this.
I totally get your point, sometimes the time is not just there. I am leaning, like you said, that this platform is not the right platform. I think you can find something else, in the striker fired dept that is more rust resistant than a Glock. I suggest you look into german HK and Walther, they are both superior on their finishes. glock is not what it used to be so if your gun is 1 year old, the treatment is not good. The good tenifer died with the Gen3. Those were the good old days of the glock and if your is a gen3 with old school finish, then you have certainly pushed the limits on it, in my opinion.
Maybe, like you said, something that is hammer fired would be a better fit but I am not 100% sure. I would try to find something that is more resistant to salt since you seem to be dealing with water a lot.
good luck
I totally get your point, sometimes the time is not just there. I am leaning, like you said, that this platform is not the right platform. I think you can find something else, in the striker fired dept that is more rust resistant than a Glock. I suggest you look into german HK and Walther, they are both superior on their finishes. glock is not what it used to be so if your gun is 1 year old, the treatment is not good. The good tenifer died with the Gen3. Those were the good old days of the glock and if your is a gen3 with old school finish, then you have certainly pushed the limits on it, in my opinion.
Maybe, like you said, something that is hammer fired would be a better fit but I am not 100% sure. I would try to find something that is more resistant to salt since you seem to be dealing with water a lot.
good luck
Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
10mm minimum, and a 10mm designed for proper, full house 10mm is required with a long barrel (5” min, preferably more for a 10mm). The Delta Elite qualifies but not a big cocked and locked fan. If it’s not a G40 it’s probably a S&W wheelgun in stainless. The SEALs were probably onto something.
One of the local operating guides carries a 500 S&W and was practicing with it when I showed up at our range a few years back. He was shooting at a bear silhouette at 25 yards about as fast as I can shoot a .357mag. He offered a chance to let six of them off. I fired one! Jeez how he managed the recoil on that gun was beyond me. The gun is hurtful. One of the local pilots who flys for an outfit in the Yukon uses a 460S&W. stainless. Nice gun but I did decline the chance to fire it. At the time my old shoulder didn't need any more hammering. It seems to me either a 4.2" 44mag or a five inch 460 Smith ought to be near the top of your list if you are moving to a wheel gun.
One question have you ever tried a chest rig for your pistol? Might be a better place to hang your handgun. Check out Simply Rugged Holsters stateside. He is from Alaska originally and makes a pretty rugged rig.
Lets us know what you decide. Ma Glock is not doing it for you. That said a wheel gun comes with a few pimples as well. I have had a few grains of sand jam up a cylinder tight. To bad SIG doesn't make the 320 in 10MM. You could just replace the top end every six months or yearly depending on shape.
Take Care
Bob
One question have you ever tried a chest rig for your pistol? Might be a better place to hang your handgun. Check out Simply Rugged Holsters stateside. He is from Alaska originally and makes a pretty rugged rig.
Lets us know what you decide. Ma Glock is not doing it for you. That said a wheel gun comes with a few pimples as well. I have had a few grains of sand jam up a cylinder tight. To bad SIG doesn't make the 320 in 10MM. You could just replace the top end every six months or yearly depending on shape.
Take Care
Bob
Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Unfortunately chest holsters are prohibited for ATC in the west, they consider the muzzle sweep dangerous. I can shoot big rifles, but I’m way too slow with big handguns, recognize my limitations. It’s not an activity I want to invest a lot of time in either, will stay in the 10mm / .357 Mag / .41 Mag / .44 Mag pool as I’m trying to shed every ounce from my load. I had a Freedom Arms .475 Linebaugh short barrel, was ridiculous! Ended up pointed skyward every shot with the supporting hand torn off the grip. No sense downloading it.
I’ve actually used a good deal of motor oil on guns as it’s handy and well priced, just aviation oil from the floatplane and it has the most in common with diesel oil just with more staying power. The WD actually works better when applied every few days, same found in the test I put up there, but I don’t expect you to believe me.
I've tried WD40 for lots of things, even firearms for a short time (very short time). I've also used other versions of motor oil and it didn't work as well. This works well. But there are two factors here. The weight being 0W40 and that it's full synthetic. People forget that metals etc are porous. With an initial spray down of G96 you let it soak into the pours of the metal. It's not evaporating. Then final film with the shell roteilla. I've used WD40 but it's a mediocre lubricant. It's ok for rust prevention but not like this combo. For the exterior I would just use G96 then. I know it's more expensive. But look at your gun!! I hate to say it but WD40 isn't cutting it!!
At work we've been using MC3000 which is used for the vulcan cannon on the F16 and the Chain cannon on the A10 warthog. It dries out after a while. Initial use was very good but my combo seems to work better. Plus it's easier to find and cost wise it's fairly inexpensive. Using straight G96 isn't cheap which is why I used it just as a base. Unless I'm in sub -50 then I use straight G96 to avoid any concerns with the oil thickening. I can confirm that G96 works with a pistol in sub -50. I can confirm that the G96/Shell Roteilla combo works in -30 but haven't tried it in colder. It should work until around -50.
Yup. Enjoyed the John? Hahha that was some interesting times when I was there. I imagine it's grown a lot since I was last there. Absolutely. Let me know when you're back in town.
Sounds like you've convinced yourself on a revolver, Doing some research on Seal Team 6 and S&W proved very interesting, Seems initially it was a model 66 and possibly later a 686.
As for yourself you should look into the Model 69 Combat Magnum, Its an L frame 44 magnum 5 shot, 4.25" Much lighter and slimmer than its N framed brother. Its bead Blasted stainless, exposed parts susceptible to rust I would be concerned about would be trigger hammer and front and rear sight and cylinder release might be beneficial in your case to have these parts cerakoted.
If you do go the .44 Mag route, American Eagle 240gr JSP seems to pack the most punch of any standard factory round I've experimented with.
Any gun that is susceptible to failure due to over-lubing is obviously not a good choice for your environment. If you don’t want a revolver, get a decent hammer-fired 10 mm pistol like Sig P220 or Dan Wesson RZ-10. Both are stainless.
You could just consider it as a cost of doing business, buy 4 every year and sell them every 3 months on the E.E. for more then you paid......
Joking aside even selling for a little less then you paid (should be able to get a pro deal or bulk discount) would save you the hassle of having to waste time changing out recoil springs..... time is money after all and it's not like your attached to it beyond it's use as a tool.
Do they make you qualify with the same ammo you carry for animal defense?
Joking aside even selling for a little less then you paid (should be able to get a pro deal or bulk discount) would save you the hassle of having to waste time changing out recoil springs..... time is money after all and it's not like your attached to it beyond it's use as a tool.
Do they make you qualify with the same ammo you carry for animal defense?
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