Tenifer, Glock, and “Toughness” - One season’s guiding & bushpiloting on a G40

I actually agree in large part, and why I’ve ordered replacement parts and will try G96 again. However the Glock runs no matter what mantra even I bought into, isn’t up to the standard of an N frame Smith & Wesson; a gun I don’t like shooting to be clear, I’m no S&W equivalent of nhunter with his Glocks. This is a brutal conditions work tool and I may have to accept if there’s another hiccup after G96 or the Hornady One Shot, that a big Smith or Ruger is the right tool. The gun that you work harder to shoot well but is certain to fire, and doesn’t require attention during the trip, may have a better balance sheet all considered. Having a sidearm that can complete a ten day hunt without tear down, just oiling, is a deal breaker to me.
 
I guess the Glock hype turned out to be just that. It's amazing that the Stainless Smith puts up with it but clearly it's a more open design in some areas and stainless.

Who knows maybe the new stainless parts and water draining additions would be enough to go with the WD-40/Creek routine... but for the cost of a better oil and a once a week 10 minute clean it's probably not worth the risk.

After reading the oil test post that was linked too above, I'd think the hornady one shot oil should get you through a week of work no problem and you won't even need to dunk it in the creek.... :)

If you can find time to strip the gun down and clean it once a week I have a feeling you will see better results. The exterior wear is one thing but it needs to work reliably given it's role.
 
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Can-down said:
I guess the Glock hype turned out to be just that. It's amazing that the Stainless Smith puts up with it but clearly it's a more open design in some areas and stainless.

Who knows maybe the new stainless parts and water draining additions would be enough to go with the WD-40/Creek routine... but for the cost of a better oil and a once a week 10 minute clean it's probably not worth the risk.

After reading the oil test post that was linked too above, I'd think the hornady one shot oil should get you through a week of work no problem and you won't even need to dunk it in the creek.... :)

If you can find time to strip the gun down and clean it once a week I have a feeling you will see better results. The exterior wear is one thing but it needs to work reliably given it's role.
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Will still need to be fresh water flushed, all our gear does, as it’ll be full of salt water spray and soaked anyhow. Better to get the salt and sand out it won’t be any wetter. It’s better than the tap water anywhere posting here, on a nice day below.

TOgsWL2.jpg
 
Ardent said:
Will still need to be fresh water flushed, all our gear does, as it’ll be full of salt water spray and soaked anyhow. Better to get the salt and sand out it won’t be any wetter. It’s better than the tap water anywhere posting here, on a nice day below.
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Are you frequently boiling water while out in the field? If so, boil a little extra and give the glock a flush with hot water. It will wash away the salt water and dry faster leaving less likelihood of rust.
 
Ardent said:
Will still need to be fresh water flushed, all our gear does, as it’ll be full of salt water spray and soaked anyhow. Better to get the salt and sand out it won’t be any wetter. It’s better than the tap water anywhere posting here, on a nice day below.

TOgsWL2.jpg
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Is all your gear coated with anti rust lubricants and not being run? It might be worth a test run flushing it out less if you get a hold of some one shot.....


For some reason that picture just doesn't scream salt spray.... :)

Oh and I did assume you had easy access to clean fresh water.
 
That’s not the ocean, that’s upstream, you go back and forth daily by open console jet boat. Trust me you don’t want to see what happens when you leave the salt in things, it builds up anyhow to become an abrasive, corrosive scale that’s strangely gummy. No I don’t oil the stainless Model 70s at all aside from the bolt.

This is probably what you pictured, driving the jet boat Glock on hip last October. You take somewhat less pics of the less fun and picturesque moments. You get soaked routinely in salt water but just the salt air and suspended droplets do it on their own without you helping them.

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I was joking, thing is can you simply not wear the glock on your hip while you are jet boating in the ocean and unlikely to be jumped by bears? Maybe the constraints of bush carry are so restrictive that protecting the gun from salt spray when there is no danger of attack is not possible? Or logistically it's difficult.

Anything you can do to minimize the amount of salt spray would be good but hopefully with the new parts and a better maintenance regime you won't have to worry about covering the gun while jet boating in salt water..... I'd be so tempted to rig some sort of spray skirt for that holster and use it when the spray is bad if casing the gun is not an option.

Sucks to be constrained by stupid regulations.
 
To NVHunter I am quite sure Angus understands the coating is not Tenifer. Matters not. His gun, his environment (which you clearly don't understand), and to the point, his life. I don't have to own one, I don't have to carry one, most importantly, I have a better chance of winning the Loto than having to use a handgun to protect myself most of the time.

Ardent is in a completely different situation in every respect because it isn't just HIS life he has to worry about when out in the woods romping with his bears with clients. To him his gun is a tool nothing more, nothing less. His guns may not last forever because he actually uses them.

The Glock is a serviceable handgun. We all know that but it is not what the Glock marketing department would have you believe. The Gen 5 version is a completely new pistol with an exterior similar to past iterations. It has a new slide due in part to the fact the Gen 4 slides tended to crack with heavy use so changes were made in the slide and in the rear where some Gen 4's were also cracking under heavy use. The trigger group has been redesigned along with the frame to accommodate the changes in the slide and trigger group.

The Tenifer metal treatment is/was excellent and is used on Walther pistols to this date. The Gen 4's/5's that sit in gun safes from one year to the next last forever as do most pistols. The ones that don't last exist in harsh conditions and may tend to rust without some TLC.

Glock changed to the Melonite (sp) type of finish when they began producing pistols in the US due to EPA restrictions. To my knowledge the Gen 3's were the last of the Tenifer Glocks.

For those of us who live in the West Coast rain forest, threads like this are very useful. I grew up in Alberta and did most of my hunting there and my gun safe reflects that. If I were to hunt here a stainless rifle would be on order.

I wait for the results of Ardent's experiences with the two preservatives he is going to try. I suspect he will be moving on to revolvers but who knows, he may yet beat the environment he works in.

Take Care

Bob
 
Can-down said:
I was joking, thing is can you simply not wear the glock on your hip while you are jet boating in the ocean and unlikely to be jumped by bears? Maybe the constraints of bush carry are so restrictive that protecting the gun from salt spray when there is no danger of attack is not possible? Or logistically it's difficult.

Anything you can do to minimize the amount of salt spray would be good but hopefully with the new parts and a better maintenance regime you won't have to worry about covering the gun while jet boating in salt water..... I'd be so tempted to rig some sort of spray skirt for that holster and use it when the spray is bad if casing the gun is not an option.

Sucks to be constrained by stupid regulations.
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Feel a little like you keep trying to wrap your head around the gig and we’re spinning in circles here. ;)

You’re in and out of where the bears are all the time, you scoot from the river across the fjords to camp, back again. Then at camp it rains all night and nothing dries. The gun’s in the right place, and where I need it if I end up swimming ashore somewhere. I had a boat issue recently and nearly spent a night on the bank of the biggest Grizz river without the boat in an unplanned hurry, a place you can be sure you’ll be visited by the bears on. Sure it’d be nice to cover it but it really should be open and accessible anyhow, lest I grab hold of a clear plastic flap / bright solution I make when I reach for the gun the day I need it. :) I actually don’t have any issue with the regs personally. I just want a gun that can live here for the duration of a hunt with just oiling, without tearing it down.
 
I would hope that swishing the gun in fresh water and then spraying it inside and out with G96 synthetic of One Shot would keep it clean and running - and rust free.

Do you remove the mag before swishing and lubing?

The steel in the mags could rust. But you should avoid water and oil on the ammo.
 
This back and forth reminds me of AR owners whose babys travel in hard cases vs my experience with them as an infantryman in harsh environments 24-7, with lots of other important things to worry about. I think understanding the difference is a “bridge too far” for many who don’t have the personal experience.
 
Very interesting thread - I hope the Glock people are reading this.

Seems to me there's room for a new Glock Model. The West Coast Rain Forest model XX in 6 inch 10mm with corrosion proof stainless steel slide, sights and stainless internals. Having a bear logo on the slide would be cool as well.

They could give the prototype to Ardent for testing and evaluation.
 
You need a stainless barrel and as many Ti or stainless internals as you can find/have made, and a cerekoted Ti slide. I have seen some of your rifle pics and posts on them, may as well try out some fancy parts on the glock.
 
It's odd that people keep dwelling on rust as the culprit for the light strike. Rust just isn't a very good "glue" unless it's been sitting seized for ages.
 
Gatehouse said:
It's odd that people keep dwelling on rust as the culprit for the light strike. Rust just isn't a very good "glue" unless it's been sitting seized for ages.
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I’m with you, it’s just a cosmetic imperfection and doesn’t trouble me at all, sure it looks kind of crappy but don’t think it stopped the gun. This thread’s been there a dozen times but I think you’re right about the recoil spring, and maybe oil in the firing pin channel didn’t help. But I bet it was a slightly out of battery issue, that spring is the kicked in tavern wench with the ammo it’s been subjected to.

LongBomber said:
You need a stainless barrel and as many Ti or stainless internals as you can find/have made, and a cerekoted Ti slide. I have seen some of your rifle pics and posts on them, may as well try out some fancy parts on the glock.
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I’m boring when it comes to handguns they’re just tools, not mechanical expressions of love like a good rifle. :p I just want a tool that always works and doesn’t demand any time of me, stainless Ruger 77s and Model 70s for a rifle example.

PSE said:
Very interesting thread - I hope the Glock people are reading this.

Seems to me there's room for a new Glock Model. The West Coast Rain Forest model XX in 6 inch 10mm with corrosion proof stainless steel slide, sights and stainless internals. Having a bear logo on the slide would be cool as well.

They could give the prototype to Ardent for testing and evaluation.
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I’ll talk to Lipseys Laugh2
 
On a side note, I treat my Gen 4 Glock very similarly to Ardent with one key exception, which is mine is not bathed in salt water. No issues, no rust & works perfectly every time with Buffalo Bore 220 gr. I practice a lot and rarely clean it afterwards. I just use compressed air in a can and WD40 on a round of dead pine for cleaning when I'm in the field. Zero rust. Add a bit of molly on the slides sweet spots. I dont think anything can handle salt water unless its 100 % stainless.
 
Runt said:
On a side note, I treat my Gen 4 Glock very similarly to Ardent with one key exception, which is mine is not bathed in salt water. No issues, no rust & works perfectly every time with Buffalo Bore 220 gr. I practice a lot and rarely clean it afterwards. I just use compressed air in a can and WD40 on a round of dead pine for cleaning when I'm in the field. Zero rust. Add a bit of molly on the slides sweet spots. I dont think anything can handle salt water unless its 100 % stainless.
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Good to meet another 10mm ATC’er and guy working with his. Agreed on salt, and any lube gets rubbed raw with it riding in a wet kydex holster.
 
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