Hard to beat at 6.8oz for a 15” handguard, in stock at RDSC to the tune of 550.00
Is that just the handguard or with the steel barrel nut? Crazy light if both!
Hard to beat at 6.8oz for a 15” handguard, in stock at RDSC to the tune of 550.00
A pencil barrel is useless for target shooting, even more so with a semi, as you tend to shoot faster.This has got to be some of the most valuable information I have ever got from this forum.
Thank you to all who have contributed. If someone can weigh the handguard again to confirm, that would be much appreciated.
I also find the handguard a little "fat" but I assumed it was just something to get used to, as this is my first AR type rifle.
A shorter handguard would be fine by me. I have 6" passed the point of where my hand holds it. I know aiming is more precise if the bipod is at the far front, but
I use mine primarily for hunting, with the occasional target practice at the sand pit. (It's wonderful to be able to do that with an AR)
So, if the handguard is 20 oz, and I can save roughly 16 oz on the barrel, that's 1.5 lbs off the front with a lighter handguard and barrel.
Now to decide, do I go with a pencil type barrel at 18", or the heavy fluted at 18". (Faxon seems to make a great 2.2 lbs heavy fluted barrel)
Repeated shots at the pit, with the stock barrel, held great accuracy even after 20 rounds. If I ever want to keep doing range
days, I think I may want the heavy fluted and I would still save close to 12 oz vs stock barrel.
My only other experience was by Savage 110 with sporter barrel losing accuracy after 5 rounds.
A pencil barrel is useless for target shooting, even more so with a semi, as you tend to shoot faster.
After 3 rnds it all goes to sh!t. Unless you want to spend your day waiting for the barrel to cool down
From my experience,I’ve used both quite a bit,a CFW barrel is the best of both worlds.
It doesn’t get to hot,cools down fast and gives you the weight of a pencil barrel.
And it looks awesome![]()
Does any one have experience with modern pencil barrels ? Like the OP I'm also looking at using a lighter barrel to lighten up the front end even more, but I do some action shooting and don't want to worry about drifting due to heat. Supposedly Fulton Armoury and Faxon ave good rigidity on their pencils to go at least a mag or two before starting to drift.
Ya, probably about $1000 cad for a CFW.I personally have ZERO experience with CFW barrels, but did see a youtube video that measured how rigid it was vs steel. (Steel was more rigid)
(CFW was more rigid per weight)
Maple Ridge Armoury seem promising with their "I am barely non restricted" barrel at 18.6 inches. Decent pricing and Canadian too.
My only experience with pencil / sporter barrels are on bolt guns. Savage 110 with sporter barrel loses an inch after 5 rounds. (at 100 yards). Completely random is direction.
Thompson center medium barrel is good for 10 rounds over 10 minutes, and still within 3 moa.
My stag stock barrel shot accurately (within 4") using surplus 7.62 after 80 or rounds. (over an hour or so)
If removing a lb is going to cost another grand, I just might consider a picatinny helium balloon attachment...
Anything "permanent" (generally accepted as requiring tools for removal) counts for overall length. An additional muzzle brake does not count towards barrel length, only continuous length of barrel material.
Not true. To count for overall length no "permanent" is required. As an example, the Troy Par rifles with the folding stocks are under 26" with the muzzle break/flash hider removed, and they are allowed into the country as non restricted. Factory flash hider is not pinned on and there are no regulations stating that it has to be tightened on to a certain tightness. It just has to be there!
If removing a lb is going to cost another grand, I just might consider a picatinny helium balloon attachment...
Is that just the handguard or with the steel barrel nut? Crazy light if both!
I'm pretty sure the barrel nut is another 2oz so 8.8oz total. The 13" hand guard would fit though, I was at a store the other day measuring how far up the gas block is from the upper receiver and with a 13" hand guard you would just cover it to the tip of the gas block.
It might also be slightly cheaper to buy it direct from V Seven instead of RDSC.
I looked at BSF carbon barrels but seems to be mixed reviews on them. Great accuracy when cold (sub moa or better) but strings faster than expected. If that's the case then I'd rather go with a cheaper Faxon barrel.
Proof Research is supposed to be the cat's meow but costs $1200+ per peiece. Ouch. That's supposed to hold moa accuracy even after mag dumps, though.
I’ve owned both Proof (223)and Christensen Arms (308) ,CFW barrels.
I’ve done load development with both and they work really well.
Both were equally accurate .
Sorry, no three gun available around here.How do they hold up with rapid fire? Say in 3 gun matches? Takes a few mags before groups opening up?
Not for 3 gun.
I've decided to go with a different route: titanium bcg to save 7 oz in the middle, and a heavy-fluted barrel to save 8 to 10 oz at the front. This gets me the 1lb that I want to loose but not at the expense of consistency. Got an adjustable gas block (about the same weight as regular steel blocks) for the lighter bcg too.
This should make a 7 lb 8 ~ 12 oz rifle without optics.
We'll see how it goes!