Question on MOA

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Fireguy0991

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My question is on MOA

I understand MOA for a 100 yards out. I know it's an angular measurement.

1 MOA spreads about 1″ per 100 yards. 1 MOA is a different size as the distances increases. 2" @ 200 yard 3" @300 yards and so on. I have to calculate bullet drop at let's say 400 yards my drop is 8" I know 1 MOA @ 400 yards = 4 inches, Two 4″ increments fit into the 8″ of needed adjustment so I would need to adjust 2 MOA.

My rifle is sighted in @ 100 yards. My scope is 1 click equals ¼"MOA and has 70 MOA adjustment in it.
So if 1 MOA at 100 yards is 1″, then 50 yards is half the distance, 1 MOA is half as big and equals (half a inch) 1/2″, Likewise, 1 MOA at 25 yards is 1/4″.

My question is how do I adjust if I shoot less than 100 yards.
Drop
@ 25 yards = 2.17"
@ 50 yards = 3.75"
@ 75 yards = 3.08"

How do I adjust for these shorter distances?
 
This is good video explaining MOA. He mentions less than 100yd ranges as well: (link broken purposely)
h ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA2PZBD5Tjg
 
You can get a free ballistics calculation app called Strelok. The BC on a 22lr bullet is around 0.122 if I remember right. You can put in the advertised muzzle velocity of your ammo if you don't have a chronograph and get pretty close to your hold overs at which ever distances you plug into it. For CCI's Standard Velocity ammo I had to take the BC down to 0.069 to get the velocity at 100 yards to what CCI advertises. I haven used that ammo yet, but will be and I have a chronograph that I will also check the ammo with.
 
Here's another way to look at it. If your scope adjusts 1/4 MOA at 100 yards, each "click" will move the crosshair very close to 1/4". At 50 yards each "click" will move it 1/8" and at 25 it will be 1/16th of an inch. In other words, to move it one inch at 100 yards, four "clicks"; one inch at 50 needs eight "clicks"; and one inch at 25 yards requires 16 "clicks".

If shooting longer distances you will have to know how much the bullet will drop to get on paper without too much fuss. See the ballistics chart in the stickies section.
 
Another option is to just zero at 25 and let everything be a holdOVER not a hold under. This way you aren’t dialing up and down from 25 out past 100. Is there any particular reason you have to have a 100yd zero? You are correct on the math on MOA, however there will come a point ....way out there ...when moa is its own measurement. 1 moa is 1.049 inches. Technically not 1 inch. At closer distances the “ 1inch” measurement for .22 lr distance is good enough.
 
Thanks for the input. I will try your suggestion.

My concern (zero @ 25) is I will run out of scope adjustment at longer distances. I wanted to see how far I can push this gun.

With the scope having 70 total MOA (35 up & down) its mounted on a 30 MOA rail
 
Drop table from Strelok+ for standard velocity ammo with a 50 yard zero. 25 yard increments. Scope height 1.97".

RRrZqwUh.jpg
 
So with your current set up in a 30 moa base, you have 35 moa left in your optic to adjust?? What is your optic? 35 moa, depending on ammo, will push the .22 to between 200-250M. I shimmed my 20 moa base with 12 thou shim stock. My optic(Hawke sidewinder 30 8.5-25x44) has 62.5 of upwards travel and 2.5 moa of down. With CCI SV I can dial out to 295 M. How far out are you hoping to dial? I am using meters for my data as I mostly shoot MIL optics and my holdovers are in MILs despite having moa adjustments.
 
Barks said:
So with your current set up in a 30 moa base, you have 35 moa left in your optic to adjust?? What is your optic? 35 moa, depending on ammo, will push the .22 to between 200-250M. I shimmed my 20 moa base with 12 thou shim stock. My optic(Hawke sidewinder 30 8.5-25x44) has 62.5 of upwards travel and 2.5 moa of down. With CCI SV I can dial out to 295 M. How far out are you hoping to dial? I am using meters for my data as I mostly shoot MIL optics and my holdovers are in MILs despite having moa adjustments.
Click to expand...

????
 
Yeah... the last part of my post is confusing. Im not trying to hijack this post. Not my intention. To try explain...I have 3 optics that use a mildot retical that also have moa adjustments.They are all 2FP. I have 2 options for these optics. 1 is to just use it to dial for hold over in moa. Or 2...to calculate the actual MIL holdover....and hold in MILs. Because these are 2FP optics, they all subtend at different magnifications. Which further complicates things.
My Data is as follows:F216F8D0-585A-49D2-AAE5-DFADEA73A768.jpg
CCI standard velocity at 1043fps. The velocity from my rifles. Also, if a scope hase 70 moa of adjustment, why wouldnt you take advantage of using as much vertical adjustment as you can. When would you need to dial 35 moa down?
 

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Fireguy0991 said:
Thanks for the input. I will try your suggestion.

My concern (zero @ 25) is I will run out of scope adjustment at longer distances. I wanted to see how far I can push this gun.

With the scope having 70 total MOA (35 up & down) its mounted on a 30 MOA rail
Click to expand...

Don’t forget your bullet is still rising at 25 yards, and will eventually start dropping. A zero at 25 yards will also be a zero somewhere else out there.
 
Juster said:
At 25 yards 1 MOA is aboot .25". 75 yards, .75".
Click to expand...

This is correct. 100 yards = 1"; 200 yards = 2" 300 = 3".

If you are sighting in a .22 on a 20 yard indoor range like ours, and have a scope where 1 click = 1/4" (.25 moa) at 100 yards, it now takes 5 clicks to = 1/4" movement at 20 yards; or .05 (5/100) of an inch.
 
The easiest way I've found to keep my head wrapped around MOA is to measure correction on the target in minutes rather than inches or mm.
For clarity, I'll explain using a longer range example. I use the Hornady ballistic calculator with the "come up" option enabled. I zero at 100 yds, then if I wish to shoot at 400 yds, simply dial on the required elevation.
If the first shot is 4 inches low, add 1 minute of elevation, since 1 MOA is approximately 4 inches at 400 yds.
Do yourself a favour, think in one method of measurement as much as you can. Measure your target in MOA, not inches. Never start thinking in terms of "clicks", it's the surest way to "get lost" from your initial zero. The graduations on your scope dial don't lie (shouldn't, anyway). My scopes all have 15 minutes of movement per revolution, and are graduated in 1/4 MOA increments. The same 1/4 MOA single graduation (the not-to-be-mentioned "click" lol) that gives you 1/4 inch of movement on a 100 yd target also gives you 2 inches of movement at 800 yds. It's that easy.. 8 times the distance, 8 times the movement on target.
Once you have that down, going shorter is the same deal. 25 yds is 1/4 the distance of 100 yds, and each increment is still 1/4 MOA. At 25 yds, 1 MOA is roughly 1/4 inch on the target. 16 graduations per inch.
For. 22 shooting, I zero at 50 yds. I know that shooting at 25 yds will require maybe 1 to 1.5 minutes adjustment down, and 100 yds will call for about 7 minutes up, depending on the ammo I'm using.
Target turrets make it easier. You can see how much you're adjusting from behind the rifle, and there's even less tendency to think in terms of clicks.
The first time I shot at 800 yds, I realized I'd need to come up over 28 minutes of elevation to hit the target. With my scope, 28 minutes is 28 x 4 = 112 clicks. Try doing that with slippery, sweaty fingers while you've got a mosquito drilling into your neck.. was that 72 or 82 clicks before you lost count? Instead, start with your scope set at zero. 1 full turn of the elevation knob is 15 MOA "on". Take 5 seconds to slap the mossie, wipe the sweat off, and add "on" 13 more MOA. You're ready to go, but, before you forget where you are adjustment-wise, you make a note in your shooting log. Do that for each adjustment, no matter how small it is. It makes it easy later, to both return to your initial zero point, and also for your next shooting session. It's a written record of "what worked and what didn't".
 
Chilly807 said:
The easiest way I've found to keep my head wrapped around MOA is to measure correction on the target in minutes rather than inches or mm.
For clarity, I'll explain using a longer range example. I use the Hornady ballistic calculator with the "come up" option enabled. I zero at 100 yds, then if I wish to shoot at 400 yds, simply dial on the required elevation.
If the first shot is 4 inches low, add 1 minute of elevation, since 1 MOA is approximately 4 inches at 400 yds.
Do yourself a favour, think in one method of measurement as much as you can. Measure your target in MOA, not inches. Never start thinking in terms of "clicks", it's the surest way to "get lost" from your initial zero. The graduations on your scope dial don't lie (shouldn't, anyway). My scopes all have 15 minutes of movement per revolution, and are graduated in 1/4 MOA increments. The same 1/4 MOA single graduation (the not-to-be-mentioned "click" lol) that gives you 1/4 inch of movement on a 100 yd target also gives you 2 inches of movement at 800 yds. It's that easy.. 8 times the distance, 8 times the movement on target.
Once you have that down, going shorter is the same deal. 25 yds is 1/4 the distance of 100 yds, and each increment is still 1/4 MOA. At 25 yds, 1 MOA is roughly 1/4 inch on the target. 16 graduations per inch.
For. 22 shooting, I zero at 50 yds. I know that shooting at 25 yds will require maybe 1 to 1.5 minutes adjustment down, and 100 yds will call for about 7 minutes up, depending on the ammo I'm using.
Target turrets make it easier. You can see how much you're adjusting from behind the rifle, and there's even less tendency to think in terms of clicks.
The first time I shot at 800 yds, I realized I'd need to come up over 28 minutes of elevation to hit the target. With my scope, 28 minutes is 28 x 4 = 112 clicks. Try doing that with slippery, sweaty fingers while you've got a mosquito drilling into your neck.. was that 72 or 82 clicks before you lost count? Instead, start with your scope set at zero. 1 full turn of the elevation knob is 15 MOA "on". Take 5 seconds to slap the mossie, wipe the sweat off, and add "on" 13 more MOA. You're ready to go, but, before you forget where you are adjustment-wise, you make a note in your shooting log. Do that for each adjustment, no matter how small it is. It makes it easy later, to both return to your initial zero point, and also for your next shooting session. It's a written record of "what worked and what didn't".
Click to expand...

Thanks for this info I have printed it.
 
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