St Pauli - you have a great default attitude - don't want to just "wing it". However, there is solid information in your Hornady 9 if you crunch the numbers they shown a bit. I am referring to Hornady 7, 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser, 140 grain bullets. Note first that they are providing this data for three different shapes of bullets - an SST, an A-Max and a SP. In my book, they list 7 powders. If you do the math thing, you will discover that the start loads are all in the 90% range of what they list as the maximum loads. As you might know, going below a published start load with some powders can get you into the same issues as going above a max load. If you look, for some powders you can find a listed start load just below your bullet weight, and then the same powder used for a slightly heavier weight bullet. In this case, I see Hornady lists H 4831 for both the 3 x 140 grain bullets and the one 160 grain bullet. Their start for the 140's is 38.6. Their start for the 160's is 38.3. You pretty much have a ball park for your first 2 or 3 cartridges to try, if you chose to use H4831. Then you will load a series by adding 0.5 or 1.0 grains at a time and work your way up to some limit.
I happen to belong to the group that believes velocity is the only reliable indicator of pressure that a home hand loader can rely on. So I measure velocity with a chronograph as I go. I also note that Hornady 7 uses a 29" barrel to test their velocities. Not certain what you are using but I have found 30 fps per inch of barrel is a good general rule to adjust expectations between barrel lengths. In this case Hornady lists maximum velocities of 2500 and 2600 (with a 29" barrel), depending on the powder chosen. They show 2600fps for 140's with H4831. In your boots, with 143 grains bullets, I would want to stop at something less than 2600 (with a 29" barrel), unless you can find authoritative information about that bullet.
Others may use case head expansion measurements, extraction tightness or just plain "eyeballing" the physical condition of the primer as their indicator of "maximum". Whatever floats your boat. My point is there are straightforward ways to determine a starting point, but no book or factory can tell you what the "max" load is in your rifle, with your brass and your primers. A conscientious handloader works up to a "max" - you do not start there.