Stevens Favorite Model 1915 22 cal.
- Thread starter silentknight001
- Start date
Could have had a steady diet of shorts. Carbon build up might cause lr to stick.
Rifling looks good, all parts are there but a little worn/loose. Lever stays up but if you pull the trigger hard enough the safety let's go. Actually haven't tried firing it yet...just got it. The problem seems to be the extractor is not positioning properly, likely from wearing down of mechanisms. Shell goes flush with the chamber and fingers of the extractor can't get behind the casing to pull it back. I'm just using shells from a power nailer for testing, not 22 longs.
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- High River, Alberta
You might have to try real shells to see if they look right coming out. Polishing carbon and crud out the chamber is good advice.
If there's wear try to pinpoint areas that are critical. Is it worn at the pins? Holes can be reamed and a pin slightly larger used or the holes welded and redrilled.
Probably not worn were it contacts the rim but if so it could be built up by Tig welding or something similar.
If by firing from safety you mean that it can fire from halfcock the notch is worn or the sear is broken or buggered. Don't ever pull hard on the Trigger when at halfcock. Things will break.
If there's wear try to pinpoint areas that are critical. Is it worn at the pins? Holes can be reamed and a pin slightly larger used or the holes welded and redrilled.
Probably not worn were it contacts the rim but if so it could be built up by Tig welding or something similar.
If by firing from safety you mean that it can fire from halfcock the notch is worn or the sear is broken or buggered. Don't ever pull hard on the Trigger when at halfcock. Things will break.
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- High River, Alberta
Take a look at the info on Wisner's site, regarding how many variations there are.
Pull the guts out and make sure the parts, if marked, are marked for .22, rather than .25 or .32. I have seen both levers and breech blocks so marked.
There are multiple designs of levers, and links, with various thicknesses of links out there. Then there are levers with and without a spring loaded plunger to slow down the onset of droopy levers from the action shooting loose... Etc.
In other words, don't expect parts from another gun to swap in, unless you measure them first.Remember always, that there is no locking mechanism, the breech block is simply held in place by the cross pin, rather than being wedged against a shoulder like a 'real' gun.
They will flex, as the screw is unsupported on either side of the breech block and lever (the other screw that shares the load) and while you may get away with shooting modern High Velocity ammo, it will sooner or later start splitting cases. The gasses typically rise straight up in line with the breech face, but may also follow the firing pin back. Wear glasses!
Do try to keep in mind that clean, unworn examples, seldom seem to get broken down for parts. Used parts may or may not actually be better than what you have.
Also keep in mind that there was considerable hand fitting involved at the factory, where if it did not work, they had a bin full of other parts to swap around.
They are neat little guns. I was fascinated by them for a while, then I started to understand their, and their larger cousin the Model 44, limitations. Have had a fair few of them, mostly not <cough> pristine examples.
They were built cheap, to be sold cheap, to be used up in the process.
If you end up making parts, pay particular attention to the fit of the through holes on their pins, to be as close as possible. It is generally wear on the holes and pins, as well as damage to the two main screws, that causes problems.
Pull the guts out and make sure the parts, if marked, are marked for .22, rather than .25 or .32. I have seen both levers and breech blocks so marked.
There are multiple designs of levers, and links, with various thicknesses of links out there. Then there are levers with and without a spring loaded plunger to slow down the onset of droopy levers from the action shooting loose... Etc.
In other words, don't expect parts from another gun to swap in, unless you measure them first.Remember always, that there is no locking mechanism, the breech block is simply held in place by the cross pin, rather than being wedged against a shoulder like a 'real' gun.
They will flex, as the screw is unsupported on either side of the breech block and lever (the other screw that shares the load) and while you may get away with shooting modern High Velocity ammo, it will sooner or later start splitting cases. The gasses typically rise straight up in line with the breech face, but may also follow the firing pin back. Wear glasses!
Do try to keep in mind that clean, unworn examples, seldom seem to get broken down for parts. Used parts may or may not actually be better than what you have.
Also keep in mind that there was considerable hand fitting involved at the factory, where if it did not work, they had a bin full of other parts to swap around.
They are neat little guns. I was fascinated by them for a while, then I started to understand their, and their larger cousin the Model 44, limitations. Have had a fair few of them, mostly not <cough> pristine examples.
They were built cheap, to be sold cheap, to be used up in the process.
If you end up making parts, pay particular attention to the fit of the through holes on their pins, to be as close as possible. It is generally wear on the holes and pins, as well as damage to the two main screws, that causes problems.
NewCollector
CGN Regular
- Location
- Prince Edward Island
I have a .22 1915 Favorite as well, and some parts needed a little love. While it still functioned, the lever didn't stay up, and it had trouble extracting anything over a short. I ended up buying a new extractor from this company. It required a little filing to get it to fit, but I had no trouble with the order or importing from a US company. Unfortunately on mine, it didn't fix the lever failing to lock up, and I've recently noticed that the half-#### position doesn't hold, so I will probably end up ordering a new hammer in the near future and see if that fixes it.
Caution if your extractor is worn. Mine caused my one and only accidental discharge/out of battery, back before I replaced the part. Because of the way the extractor was sticking, and how the tilting block moves, when I placed a cartridge in the chamber, instead of the extractor moving into place with the cartridge, it moved up with the cartridge, and crushed the rim. Being a rimfire, the cartridge detonated. I was at the range, line was hot, gun pointed down range, and my eyes and ears were on, so all things considered, it was about the best possible outcome for an AD/OoB. The casing didn't rupture, since it was about 90% in battery, so there was no damage to me or the gun (it was also a .22 short). Obviously, I didn't fire it again until I had replaced the worn part.
Caution if your extractor is worn. Mine caused my one and only accidental discharge/out of battery, back before I replaced the part. Because of the way the extractor was sticking, and how the tilting block moves, when I placed a cartridge in the chamber, instead of the extractor moving into place with the cartridge, it moved up with the cartridge, and crushed the rim. Being a rimfire, the cartridge detonated. I was at the range, line was hot, gun pointed down range, and my eyes and ears were on, so all things considered, it was about the best possible outcome for an AD/OoB. The casing didn't rupture, since it was about 90% in battery, so there was no damage to me or the gun (it was also a .22 short). Obviously, I didn't fire it again until I had replaced the worn part.
