Introducing: TPL T20 MINI THERMAL SIGHT ~~Only $999!~~

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Warne 213M seem to work perfectly!

We don't need two rings, so whoever orders next and mentions this post will get a free warne ring! This will be deleted once it is redeemed

My order has been sitting as "Order Processing": throw it in the box, why don't you, and ship it? :redface: :p
I was planning on using it as a handheld for viewing hot spots in aluminum housing wiring and checking for coyotes at the farm, but a weapon mount would be good too.
 
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Introducing the T20 Mini Thermal sight, exclusively from Tactical Imports!

In-stock and ready to ship. Comes with battery and lanyard.



Features
•Small and compact
•Modular Design
•Automatic NUC (Non-Uniformity Correction)
•Multiple adjustable electronic reticles
•Multiple display modes: white hot, black hot, NV green and color
•Solid aluminum housing

Specifications:
FOV: 17-9 degrees
Spectral Response: 8 to 14 μm
Dimensions: 2.75” x 1.8” x 1.5”
Weight: 4.7 oz
Battery: CR2, 4+ hours
Refresh Rate: 30Hz
Range: 150+m
Mount: 30mm

So am I the only one to buy one of these and discover there was no battery included? And were the lanyards attached on the ones other people bought?? (mine was). Kind of wondering if mine had been opened. A bit disappointing in a $1000 optic.

Thanks for the free 30mm ring though :)
 
So am I the only one to buy one of these and discover there was no battery included? And were the lanyards attached on the ones other people bought?? (mine was). Kind of wondering if mine had been opened. A bit disappointing in a $1000 optic.

Thanks for the free 30mm ring though :)

The battery should have been included. Please send us an email.

They didn't come from the factory with batteries so we went out and bought them ourselves to include with the units
 
So now that I have a battery, my thoughts:

- as a primary optic, it's inadequate at close range, as it can be confusing to figure out what you're looking at, given the built-in zoom. It is definitely better at a bit more of an intermediate range, say between 15 to 50 meters.

- as a secondary optic, it's pretty slick.... I have it mounted beside a red-dot on my Scorpion, and it's very cool. Looking at my dog wandering around in my back yard in daylight at maybe 30 meters, I can clearly see and discern him and his surroundings. At night, he's even clearer, and there's pretty close correlation between the POI of the red dot and the thermal sight.

- Is it worth $1k? Depends on how much money you have....
 
So now that I have a battery, my thoughts:

- as a primary optic, it's inadequate at close range, as it can be confusing to figure out what you're looking at, given the built-in zoom. It is definitely better at a bit more of an intermediate range, say between 15 to 50 meters.

- as a secondary optic, it's pretty slick.... I have it mounted beside a red-dot on my Scorpion, and it's very cool. Looking at my dog wandering around in my back yard in daylight at maybe 30 meters, I can clearly see and discern him and his surroundings. At night, he's even clearer, and there's pretty close correlation between the POI of the red dot and the thermal sight.

- Is it worth $1k? Depends on how much money you have....

Thanks for the review!
 
I posted more or less the same stuff on the GTA forum, but may as well share my take on the T20 here, as there aren't a lot of places where potential buyers can see how one of these can be used. My purpose with this thermal unit is practical short-range rat hunting, using it on my Pardini K12, a target pistol, with a Home Depot aluminum square tube mounted around the barrel so as to have a place for a Picatinny rail to live.

For those too impatient to read my long-winded diatribe: it looks like by adding a small magnifying lens in a scope mount behind the T20 and using it like a compact scope I'm able to group tightly enough for rats to maybe 10 metres, perhaps further with some experience. Not good enough with reading glasses in my opinion.

I made a delrin collar and put a lens pair recovered from a broken projector into an old scope ring. Also put together a phone mount,, killing time while waiting for Canada Post. First thing of note when mounting the T20 is that the 5mm clearance with one of the low-rise steel 30mm rings I ordered is just barely sufficient; the T20 is a paper thickness away from the rail. Not two sheets, just one could slip in. Got lucky there.

Got is zeroed from 7 metres using a 2" (5cm) aluminum disc as a target, heating it with a torch every few minutes. Shot my first group with reading glasses and made a messy 3cm group. Not good enough for ratting if one's being conscientious about it... but I knew that, my eyes not being so great any more. Here's a composite of three sets of shots, with reading glasses being so-so, phone somewhat better, and with the magnifying lens obviously ideal. POA was disc centre so the smallest groups averages 1.3cm (about half an inch) low, where Chairgun predicts impacts for an optimized trajectory with this setup. Zero holdover is 12 metres.

T20_7metres_5cm_heated_target.jpg


The reading glasses and close up lens groups are 7 shots each, the phone group is 9 shots, as one of the low hits and the one off to the right were me pulling the gun as I shot - seems the phone camera apps all try to stabilize video, no way to shut that 'feature' off apparently, so I was sort of chasing a moving target. Seems like using the phone for ratting might work - that's a 2cm group of 9 at 7 metres - but not for anything distant. The close up lens is really neat to look through. Screen on the T20 looks much nicer, details of everything downrange much easier to understand when the screen fills my eye. Here's an approximation of how that appears, though it's actually a fair bit nicer than this:

T20_as_seen_through_lens.jpg


This is the phone mount thing, then the lens mounted in a stepped delrin ring (took a couple of minutes on my little lathe) and a 1" scope ring.

T20_with_phone_mount.jpg


T20_with_lens_mounted.jpg


And here's a rather poor quality video straight from the phone. Doesn't seem to be much point using a higher resolution when the native camera app and Open Camera both insist on making the captured image wander all over the place, with the bonus diagonal banding just for fun. Tried killing anti-banding, tried 50Hz and 60Hz anti-banding, tried Auto, but these just change the rate of the bands' travel across the screen. So for what it's worth, here's a brief clip showing a single hit on the 2" aluminum disc from 7 metres (23 feet). Ah, I see this forum isn't allowing embedding either, but rather goes to a simple page with a link to the video. That link works for me.

[video]http://www.luthier.ca/other/forum/T20_on_5cm_warm_target_at_7metres.mpg[/video]

Overall my first day reaction in point form:

- The 5.5x zoom maximum doesn't feel all that much more magnified than the 3x zoom, and this thing is going to stay set to maximum zoom because I'll need at least that to take clear shots on rats. A 2" hot circle looks like a circle at 7 metres - I'm guessing it'd look like a little spot at 20 metres, not really safe to take a shot on that.

- I REALLY wish they'd followed through on the T25. 8X zoom and double the pixel count in both dimensions would have been a HUGE leap in quality. Oh well, their call. I'm glad at least to have this one, which is a dramatic improvement over the T12N.

- The sense of quality is very solid. This thing is built tough, operates well. I ground down the spring tip and polished it smooth so it won't eat my batteries, but that's the only thing I can see to complain about.

- Startup time might be a second or so slower than that of the T12N, but not a big deal, just a 5 second wait from initially pressing and holding the button until there's a viable image on screen.

- Screen quality is probably good enough with the magnifying lens, which unfortunately isn't something a lot of end users are likely to put together with this, so most are going to find precision shooting on rats difficult. Unless of course you've got good, young eyes. I left those behind a decade ago, so am stuck with a grandpa lens - I'm just 57 but man, I miss my old eyesight. Looking at distant objects is a lot easier. Cars or cyclists going by at 50 metres are easily seen in considerable detail. I can tell a taxi from a family car, a pickup truck from a van, no problem. Even easy to tell a male from a female cyclist at that range, and it's 20 degrees C here, a very comfortable spring day, so thermal contrast isn't very high. Sensitivity with the T20 is apparently excellent.

- Oh, and there's a subtle but considerate modification to the two monochrome views. On the earlier units these where black & white. On the T20 there is a distinct reddish tinge, no pure white, making either white-hot or black-hot screen options a lot easier on the eyes for night use. This sort of thing is standard for astronomy apps on phones and other night-use-specialized displays. Good to see the T20 incorporating it.

- One small negative; occasionally the screen will buffer for a moment, not refreshing for up to a full second. In perhaps an hour of screen use today with various tests I've seen this happen about half a dozen times, usually very brief like 1/4-second, but as long as a second in one case.
 
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Sorry, an oversight. In the GTA thread about the T20, member Skeeets there pointed out that the end of the spring in the battery cap was very sharp and that it had significantly eaten into the end of his rechargeable battery. He polished his down and fixed the problem, and posted about it in the thread so other users would know to fix this right away. It seems Torrey Pines (or Sector Optics) is forgetting that springs often have very sharp ends. Mine was extremely sharp, but thanks to Skeeets' advice I didn't grind it into the battery, just ground it flat on a sanding disc (a half-second touch, very lightly) then followed up with some TLC using 340 grit sandpaper then lastly a leather strop. The smooth end doesn't harm the end of the battery.
 
I posted more or less the same stuff on the GTA forum, but may as well share my take on the T20 here, as there aren't a lot of places where potential buyers can see how one of these can be used. My purpose with this thermal unit is practical short-range rat hunting, using it on my Pardini K12, a target pistol, with a Home Depot aluminum square tube mounted around the barrel so as to have a place for a Picatinny rail to live.

For those too impatient to read my long-winded diatribe: it looks like by adding a small magnifying lens in a scope mount behind the T20 and using it like a compact scope I'm able to group tightly enough for rats to maybe 10 metres, perhaps further with some experience. Not good enough with reading glasses in my opinion.

I made a delrin collar and put a lens pair recovered from a broken projector into an old scope ring. Also put together a phone mount,, killing time while waiting for Canada Post. First thing of note when mounting the T20 is that the 5mm clearance with one of the low-rise steel 30mm rings I ordered is just barely sufficient; the T20 is a paper thickness away from the rail. Not two sheets, just one could slip in. Got lucky there.

Got is zeroed from 7 metres using a 2" (5cm) aluminum disc as a target, heating it with a torch every few minutes. Shot my first group with reading glasses and made a messy 3cm group. Not good enough for ratting if one's being conscientious about it... but I knew that, my eyes not being so great any more. Here's a composite of three sets of shots, with reading glasses being so-so, phone somewhat better, and with the magnifying lens obviously ideal. POA was disc centre so the smallest groups averages 1.3cm (about half an inch) low, where Chairgun predicts impacts for an optimized trajectory with this setup. Zero holdover is 12 metres.

T20_7metres_5cm_heated_target.jpg


The reading glasses and close up lens groups are 7 shots each, the phone group is 9 shots, as one of the low hits and the one off to the right were me pulling the gun as I shot - seems the phone camera apps all try to stabilize video, no way to shut that 'feature' off apparently, so I was sort of chasing a moving target. Seems like using the phone for ratting might work - that's a 2cm group of 9 at 7 metres - but not for anything distant. The close up lens is really neat to look through. Screen on the T20 looks much nicer, details of everything downrange much easier to understand when the screen fills my eye. Here's an approximation of how that appears, though it's actually a fair bit nicer than this:

T20_as_seen_through_lens.jpg


This is the phone mount thing, then the lens mounted in a stepped delrin ring (took a couple of minutes on my little lathe) and a 1" scope ring.

T20_with_phone_mount.jpg


T20_with_lens_mounted.jpg


And here's a rather poor quality video straight from the phone. Doesn't seem to be much point using a higher resolution when the native camera app and Open Camera both insist on making the captured image wander all over the place, with the bonus diagonal banding just for fun. Tried killing anti-banding, tried 50Hz and 60Hz anti-banding, tried Auto, but these just change the rate of the bands' travel across the screen. So for what it's worth, here's a brief clip showing a single hit on the 2" aluminum disc from 7 metres (23 feet). Ah, I see this forum isn't allowing embedding either, but rather goes to a simple page with a link to the video. That link works for me.

[video]http://www.luthier.ca/other/forum/T20_on_5cm_warm_target_at_7metres.mpg[/video]

Overall my first day reaction in point form:

- The 5.5x zoom maximum doesn't feel all that much more magnified than the 3x zoom, and this thing is going to stay set to maximum zoom because I'll need at least that to take clear shots on rats. A 2" hot circle looks like a circle at 7 metres - I'm guessing it'd look like a little spot at 20 metres, not really safe to take a shot on that.

- I REALLY wish they'd followed through on the T25. 8X zoom and double the pixel count in both dimensions would have been a HUGE leap in quality. Oh well, their call. I'm glad at least to have this one, which is a dramatic improvement over the T12N.

- The sense of quality is very solid. This thing is built tough, operates well. I ground down the spring tip and polished it smooth so it won't eat my batteries, but that's the only thing I can see to complain about.

- Startup time might be a second or so slower than that of the T12N, but not a big deal, just a 5 second wait from initially pressing and holding the button until there's a viable image on screen.

- Screen quality is probably good enough with the magnifying lens, which unfortunately isn't something a lot of end users are likely to put together with this, so most are going to find precision shooting on rats difficult. Unless of course you've got good, young eyes. I left those behind a decade ago, so am stuck with a grandpa lens - I'm just 57 but man, I miss my old eyesight. Looking at distant objects is a lot easier. Cars or cyclists going by at 50 metres are easily seen in considerable detail. I can tell a taxi from a family car, a pickup truck from a van, no problem. Even easy to tell a male from a female cyclist at that range, and it's 20 degrees C here, a very comfortable spring day, so thermal contrast isn't very high. Sensitivity with the T20 is apparently excellent.

- Oh, and there's a subtle but considerate modification to the two monochrome views. On the earlier units these where black & white. On the T20 there is a distinct reddish tinge, no pure white, making either white-hot or black-hot screen options a lot easier on the eyes for night use. This sort of thing is standard for astronomy apps on phones and other night-use-specialized displays. Good to see the T20 incorporating it.

- One small negative; occasionally the screen will buffer for a moment, not refreshing for up to a full second. In perhaps an hour of screen use today with various tests I've seen this happen about half a dozen times, usually very brief like 1/4-second, but as long as a second in one case.

Thanks for your business and the review!!
 
Well I've had the T20 a couple of months, and it's helped in shooting a handful of rats, but not without problems. I've completely missed as many as I've hit, something which never happened when using a 3x scope with an infrared monocular behind it. With that IR setup on the Pardini K12 I managed one-shot-kills with 69 of 70 rats, the one exception falling and needing a quick follow-up shot as it was from just 2 metres away and I got the holdover wrong. The problem with the T20 is that it wakes up with the wrong zero, sometimes.

Just today I think I've figured out a solution to this supremely annoying problem. I'd fiddled with the settings, re-zeroed numerous times only to have to revert to the previous zero settings after a few shots, calibrated the zoom over and over, but nothing consistently worked. Today I tried just zooming to minimum then back to maximum before shooting, and it worked. Has to be done every time I turn the unit on, or it shoots about 3 clicks up and 2 to 3 clicks left. Then it nails the same spot reliably during that session. So I'll see how this changes my odds with rats. The rather large offset it's been giving on boot has meant complete misses, thankfully, not just wounding hits. Can't stand wounding critters, even nasty rats. But now that I'm thoroughly used to it, and when it's holding a proper zero, the thing is giving me about 1cm accuracy at 10 metres, good enough for head shots.
 
Well I've had the T20 a couple of months, and it's helped in shooting a handful of rats, but not without problems. I've completely missed as many as I've hit, something which never happened when using a 3x scope with an infrared monocular behind it. With that IR setup on the Pardini K12 I managed one-shot-kills with 69 of 70 rats, the one exception falling and needing a quick follow-up shot as it was from just 2 metres away and I got the holdover wrong. The problem with the T20 is that it wakes up with the wrong zero, sometimes.

Just today I think I've figured out a solution to this supremely annoying problem. I'd fiddled with the settings, re-zeroed numerous times only to have to revert to the previous zero settings after a few shots, calibrated the zoom over and over, but nothing consistently worked. Today I tried just zooming to minimum then back to maximum before shooting, and it worked. Has to be done every time I turn the unit on, or it shoots about 3 clicks up and 2 to 3 clicks left. Then it nails the same spot reliably during that session. So I'll see how this changes my odds with rats. The rather large offset it's been giving on boot has meant complete misses, thankfully, not just wounding hits. Can't stand wounding critters, even nasty rats. But now that I'm thoroughly used to it, and when it's holding a proper zero, the thing is giving me about 1cm accuracy at 10 metres, good enough for head shots.
Thanks for the info/updates!
 
I haven't specifically tested this, but from casual use at night I'd guess somewhere around 100 metres is a safe bet for clearly making out a human outline. Around 30 metres for rodents, but I keep my shots on rats to 15 metres and closer as beyond that the T20 can't tell one end from the other, just too pixelated. Humans and larger animals, cars being driven or recently parked and still warm, these are very easy to identify down to quite specific parts of their shapes to 100 metres or so.

I'm a bit disappointed by what seems to be burn in around the reticle area. I've taken to disabling the reticle arrow most of the time, only toggling it back on (3 second hold on the left side button) when about to take a shot. That's in hopes of avoiding further 'damage' to the screen, which has taken on a distinctly cloudy area within a rough circle in the very middle of the screen. Gradually. I think it's actually improving a little in the past few weeks, since I started this practice. Was just leaving the red arrow reticle lit whenever I used it, but it seems there's some sort of reaction in the screen which sticks for days at a time if not longer. That's with maybe 5 minutes of use per night.
 
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