HELP! Stag 10 handguard issue

the Dakota kid

the Dakota kid

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So I just got my Stag 10 back from the gunsmith. They advised me that the barrel nut would not index properly and required a shim. The gunsmith also wasn't available to talk to. Now there is a noticeable gap which I've never had on any AR 15 handguard I've had. It obviously looks terrible and am wondering if anyone has any opinions or solutions. I've contacted Odin works but haven't heard back.
PjPhQSJ
PjPhQSJ.jpg
 
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There is no real magical “spec” for the large frame AR’s like there exists for the AR15 and as such, perfect handguard fit is difficult to attain, especially when it comes to handguards that require timing like yours.

If you remove the shim, the barrel nut will not be true and the handguard twisted. Your only real solution would be to have the barrel nut machined down to accommodate the space of the shim and allow it sit flush against the receiver. Handguards are probably the worst thing in regards to the stag 10’s as most of them (IMO) suck.


Welcome to the wonderful world of large frame AR’s!
 
My Odin Works fit like a glove for me, and I did not use any shims.

The only issue was that the pic notches are "out of step" by about 1/4 width, from the receiver to the HG. Not exactly a big deal.

In the pic you have, looks like I can see your gas tube. Estimating that gap, I am not sure why the outer nut for mounting the HG (not the actual barrel nut) could not take one more turn (in) and be tighter to the receiver.

Is it possible that because the outer nut is set so far off the receiver, it is preventing the barrel nut from being able to tighten down on the barrel as a factor of the forend of the barrel nut running out of threads and bottoming on the front of the HG mount nut?

Does it make any sense what I am trying to convey? I know what I mean, in my head.
 
These are the reasons I went with a tubular handguard for my builds.... that and i like the feel.
I am running the JP MKIII and I'm really happy with how it all fit together once I figured out the adjustments. I also Like that I can easily remove the tube without tools and without disturbing the barrel nut or top dead center.
I didn't like the price of the forward rail for mounting a front sight...... so I made my own on the mill out of a donor piece of rail...... perfect ;
 
the Dakota kid said:
So I just got my Stag 10 back from the gunsmith. They advised me that the barrel nut would not index properly and required a shim. The gunsmith also wasn't available to talk to. Now there is a noticeable gap which I've never had on any AR 15 handguard I've had. It obviously looks terrible and am wondering if anyone has any opinions or solutions. I've contacted Odin works but haven't heard back.
PjPhQSJ
PjPhQSJ.jpg
Click to expand...
What is your ejection port cover pin resting up against?
Looks like a washer.
 
So I pulled the handguard off to get a better look...there's no way that gap is necessary. Every installation video shows that outer handguard nut flush with the receiver
GXLdbyN.jpg
 
Sunchild2071 said:
My Odin Works fit like a glove for me, and I did not use any shims.

The only issue was that the pic notches are "out of step" by about 1/4 width, from the receiver to the HG. Not exactly a big deal.

In the pic you have, looks like I can see your gas tube. Estimating that gap, I am not sure why the outer nut for mounting the HG (not the actual barrel nut) could not take one more turn (in) and be tighter to the receiver.

Is it possible that because the outer nut is set so far off the receiver, it is preventing the barrel nut from being able to tighten down on the barrel as a factor of the forend of the barrel nut running out of threads and bottoming on the front of the HG mount nut?

Does it make any sense what I am trying to convey? I know what I mean, in my head.
Click to expand...
Just watched a couple install videos...I have no idea why the outer nut is set that far away...
 
Was the shim installed before or after the barrel extension? This is a common occurrence with the Stag 10 and I resolved the issue by lapping the upper.

9-A7-C43-DF-924-D-40-E3-B79-A-8-DD24-B9-FA88-F.jpg
 
Looks like if that outer nut is turned back in tight, or as close to tight as possible, your issue may resolve itself.

Good to know that is locktite residue, I thought it looked like dremel grind marks, also.
 
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