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Bfranklin

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Anyone done this themselves?

I have some C-Series that I purchased years ago so also wondering what the shelf life on that is. Bottles are unopened.

I am about to embark on a few projects and new paint is a crucial part of each one.
 
Bfranklin said:
Anyone done this themselves?

I have some C-Series that I purchased years ago so also wondering what the shelf life on that is. Bottles are unopened.

I am about to embark on a few projects and new paint is a crucial part of each one.
Click to expand...

The "shelf life" is about a year according to the company, that's not to say that it wouldn't work?, make sure you mix it for a good solid 15-20 min, and use the specified strainer.
Other than that, good luck. BTW don't take "short cuts" on the prep OK.
 
They state a year and the paint does settle so vigourous mixing is required. It is a finish so prep is 90 percent of the job dont skimp if you are not sure if its cleaned and degreased enough do it again. Knowing what not to paint is almost as important as knowing what you can paint. Parts are made of different materials and need different preps and temps and some cant handle the heat like springs. It can be done at home although you might have to be creative with equipment I had to build a tank for degreasing barrels and turned a stack on safe into a barrel oven to be able to do rifles.
 
Thanks guys.

No need for an oven, the C-Series is air dry.

What I understand for prep is:
-aluminum oxide, NOT glass beads
-degrease, dry, and degrease again (critical to be sure no oils / contaminants to interfere with the bond)

Painting:
-1 coat, perfectly applied
-if there are drips or runs, clean the part off and start over at the degreasing step

I will have to set aside a full afternoon just to get set up. So it may be a couple months away...

Also curious, can I use any air compressor set at 20-25 psi? Or does it need to be a specialty item with an air dryer? My shop is maybe 30-40% humidity...
 
Bfranklin said:
Thanks guys.

No need for an oven, the C-Series is air dry.

What I understand for prep is:
-aluminum oxide, NOT glass beads
-degrease, dry, and degrease again (critical to be sure no oils / contaminants to interfere with the bond)

Painting:
-1 coat, perfectly applied
-if there are drips or runs, clean the part off and start over at the degreasing step

I will have to set aside a full afternoon just to get set up. So it may be a couple months away...

Also curious, can I use any air compressor set at 20-25 psi? Or does it need to be a specialty item with an air dryer? My shop is maybe 30-40% humidity...
Click to expand...

Your pretty much on track, the "elite" series uses a lower psi, it needs to go on "wet" so make sure you gun is adjusted right, any parts that are ? ,off gas in the oven after degreasing, and wear gloves for handling after the initial prep. It's a "forgiving " paint , however it will run, and "less is better". Good luck.

If you go too heavy, it will "chip" so nice even coats and 2 passes max, OK
 
I would recomend the air dryer for the painting just buy a inline moisture filter attacted to your spray gun they are not expensive. The psi would be fine for painting but you need a higher pressure and larger volume compressor to run a sandblaster.
 
i have done some . i degreased with simple green and blasted with sand . i hope it has a longer shelf life because i have a bunch left lots unopened .

i srewed around with temperatures and it set fine at 100 Fahrenheit...i had some idea to do scopes but have given that up
 
Thanks again, very helpful.

My air compressor has plenty of capacity for the blasting cabinet. Come to think of it my main concern would be that when I turn the regulator down to 20-25 psi, then it has a tendency to give a good blast before settling in to an even consistent pressure. (Hope I explained that properly). Probably not a huge issue, just have to make sure the gun is not pointed at the parts being coated.

As for scopes, yes those are part of my plan as well, although the furthest away at this point. Going to be tricky to get those done properly, i.e. keeping magnification marks, etc visible.

Once I start I will update y’all.
 
I wouldnt worry about the pressure spike as you will be setting the spray pattern for your spray gun before using it on the gun parts so that will settle out the initial air blast.
As for sights i would recomend masking the marks rather than trying to paint or fill tham in afterwards. One of my first guns I did was a shotgun with a bead and the old trick of using bright nail pollish on the bead afterwards didnt work it just flaked off. Touch up paint for the scales marks will probaly do the same very little sticks to cerakote once it sets.
 
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