"Tuned" my really loose NP 29 1911 extractor

HooliganD

HooliganD

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I've shot about 200 rounds (all factory) through my NP29 so far. It only seems to like Blazer Brass in 124 gr. I've had FTEs resulting in FTFs using American Eagle (115 & 147), Remington, Winchester White Box (Brass) and that steel cased forged stuff. All in 115.

While the Blazer was 100% reliable, the ejection pattern all over the place. I had the gun apart last night cleaning it and after watching the Wilson Combat extractor tuning video on youtube, I decided to test and tune my extractor. Turns out the extractor didn't seem to have much tension at all, it wouldn't hold any of the other spent brass and only barely held about 50% of the spent Blazer Brass cases. I tightened it up and took about 15 attempts but I think I might have the proper tension now. I will get out to the range later this week and test it out.

I also need to find my blue loctite for the mag release button/extension, it keeps spinning loose.
 
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Subscribed. Once you get your extractor sorted out and if you are ambitious you should tackle ejector tuning next. I've been experimenting with good results.

Corey
 
Yes to the Loctite on that extension. Mine fell off and I was lucky to find it.

Ejection tips

QUtXZzU.jpg
 
Ganderite said:
Yes to the Loctite on that extension. Mine fell off and I was lucky to find it.

Ejection tips

QUtXZzU.jpg
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I used this info to tune the ejector on my sig. It was throwing brass forward which makes brass collection impossible. The ejector was hitting high on the case, (basically backwards of what is considered proper) filed the ejector so it contacted low as well, put a small 10 deg angle facing the ejection port. Now the gun damn near puts every round in my range bag , don't even have to bend down a pick then up. :) :):).

Corey
 
Went to the range for an hour just for a quick test. Blazer Brass still runs flawlessly (50 rounds). Winchester white box 115 worked perfectly (25 rounds). The Winchester Forged in 115 is still unreliable, but better. The first test was just five rounds loaded in the mag, it ran fine. Then I loaded up 8 rounds, and I had two FTE/FTF one was on the second shot. Cleared it (drop mag, rack, rack, reload), fired two more shots and then FTE/FTF, cleared, loaded last round and it shot. I have another 100 or so rounds of the forged stuff. It will just sit in the ammo can for now.

Brass ejection seemed to be somewhat more consistent, but I need to shoot clear of the baffles to map out the pattern. Right now it goes flying into baffles or range walls and goes all over.
 
Ganderite said:
So you shaped it green?

I don't understand the 10 degree angle. Off the right side of the ejector?
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Basically I made it match the green profile, the amount of slope is 10deg looking from the side. So the bottom of the ejector is the first thing the case hits. Then tapered it only 10 deg from bottom to top. Then looking at the gun from the top I put another angle in the ejector at another 10 deg angle. From the top the left side is forward of the right side so the brass hits the ejector low and to the left. This allows the brass to tip up quick,and roll towards the ejector port. It sends the brass at about 4 oclock.

I took my latest 1911 to the range tonight and its throwing brass forward also. I am going to tune that ejector this coming weekend, I will take some progress photos to help show what I did if interested.

Corey
 
HooliganD said:
Went to the range for an hour just for a quick test. Blazer Brass still runs flawlessly (50 rounds). Winchester white box 115 worked perfectly (25 rounds). The Winchester Forged in 115 is still unreliable, but better. The first test was just five rounds loaded in the mag, it ran fine. Then I loaded up 8 rounds, and I had two FTE/FTF one was on the second shot. Cleared it (drop mag, rack, rack, reload), fired two more shots and then FTE/FTF, cleared, loaded last round and it shot. I have another 100 or so rounds of the forged stuff. It will just sit in the ammo can for now.

Brass ejection seemed to be somewhat more consistent, but I need to shoot clear of the baffles to map out the pattern. Right now it goes flying into baffles or range walls and goes all over.
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My Norinco does the same thing, the ejector has the correct angle looking at it from the side ,but it's just squared off so it seems the brass hits and just shanks of at random directions. That little angle added to the ejector looking from the top will help it roll the brass out properly, and not quite so random.

Corey
 
CoreyMac said:
Basically I made it match the green profile, the amount of slope is 10deg looking from the side. So the bottom of the ejector is the first thing the case hits. Then tapered it only 10 deg from bottom to top. Then looking at the gun from the top I put another angle in the ejector at another 10 deg angle. From the top the left side is forward of the right side so the brass hits the ejector low and to the left. This allows the brass to tip up quick,and roll towards the ejector port. It sends the brass at about 4 oclock.

I took my latest 1911 to the range tonight and its throwing brass forward also. I am going to tune that ejector this coming weekend, I will take some progress photos to help show what I did if interested.

Corey
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Interested!

CoreyMac said:
My Norinco does the same thing, the ejector has the correct angle looking at it from the side ,but it's just squared off so it seems the brass hits and just shanks of at random directions. That little angle added to the ejector looking from the top will help it roll the brass out properly, and not quite so random.

Corey
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Again, if you have any pictures to share, it would be appreciated. Any youtube vids that you followed? Any issues feeding different factory ammo?
 
HooliganD said:
Interested!



Again, if you have any pictures to share, it would be appreciated. Any youtube vids that you followed? Any issues feeding different factory ammo?
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I forgot to ask, have you been using the Norinco magazine? I hate to sound like a broken record but if you have, that will most likely be causing most of you feeding issues. I have actually never shot factory ammo through my Norc just reloads. The biggest issue I had was the over all length of the ammo I made was a bit too long and I had issues with the gun returning to battery. I shortened the ammo a bit and it works flawless. Maybe measure the over all lenght of each of the types of ammo you use. Make a spread sheet, you may find the ammo that's working the best is possibly a different length than the others.

Maybe try a different magazine also.

Corey
 
I am running the norinco mags. I've casually asked and looked into buying some other mags, but not sure how far down the rabbit hole I was going to go with this gun. I will be buying something else soon. Ideally two more, a Shadow SP-01 and a plastic fantastic pistol (Glock/M&P9 2.0?)

But even before I spend more money on a gun (I really like my 1911 right now), I should look into shooting lessons. I'm at the Firing Line and need to ask around there on some coaching before doing a holster or Black Badge course.
 
HooliganD said:
I am running the norinco mags. I've casually asked and looked into buying some other mags, but not sure how far down the rabbit hole I was going to go with this gun. I will be buying something else soon. Ideally two more, a Shadow SP-01 and a plastic fantastic pistol (Glock/M&P9 2.0?)

But even before I spend more money on a gun (I really like my 1911 right now), I should look into shooting lessons. I'm at the Firing Line and need to ask around there on some coaching before doing a holster or Black Badge course.
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Formal training is always a good idea. Goes without saying a reliable gun is also as important, having to screw around with a gun while learning is never good. Takes your mind off what's important.

Plus the last thing you want is gun failures at a black badge course.
Corey
 
CoreyMac said:
Basically I made it match the green profile, the amount of slope is 10deg looking from the side. So the bottom of the ejector is the first thing the case hits. Then tapered it only 10 deg from bottom to top. Then looking at the gun from the top I put another angle in the ejector at another 10 deg angle. From the top the left side is forward of the right side so the brass hits the ejector low and to the left. This allows the brass to tip up quick,and roll towards the ejector port. It sends the brass at about 4 oclock.

I took my latest 1911 to the range tonight and its throwing brass forward also. I am going to tune that ejector this coming weekend, I will take some progress photos to help show what I did if interested.

Corey
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So yo shaved a little off the bottom right side of the ejector?
 
Ganderite said:
So yo shaved a little off the bottom right side of the ejector?
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Among other things yes. Basically the ejector ends up sort of looking like a triangle with the point at the lower left but you don't want to create a sharp point, it needs a bit of a land.(flat) on it so it doesn't tend to bite the case. I have to admit its difficult to explain without pics. It's like trying to describe the color red without actually showing a picture.

If you put a piece.of spent brass into magazine and load it into the gun, then slowly pull the slide back (make sure the extractor is pulling the case back) you will see the relationship of the brass and ejector. This helped me alot when first experimenting with this. It will be easier to get you head around the angles that are needed.


Corey
 
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CoreyMac said:
Among other things yes. Basically the ejector ends up sort of looking like a triangle with the point at the lower left but you don't want to create a sharp point, it needs a bit of a land.(flat) on it so it doesn't tend to bite the case. I have to admit its difficult to explain without pics. It's like trying to describe the color red without actually showing a picture.

If you put a piece.of spent brass into magazine and load it into the gun, then slowly pull the slide back (make sure the extractor is pulling the case back) you will see the relationship of the brass and ejector. This helped me alot when first experimenting with this. It will be easier to get you head around the angles that are needed.


Corey
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Post some pics of that ejector!

and good idea about the slow motion slide pull...I was wondering if that would work, I figured it had to be done with some force, but if you're going slow you're just looking for impact points.
 
HooliganD said:
Post some pics of that ejector!

and good idea about the slow motion slide pull...I was wondering if that would work, I figured it had to be done with some force, but if you're going slow you're just looking for impact points.
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Doing the latest gun probably Saturday, pics will follow. Ya. The slow slide test is only for visual reference, the minute the brass hits the ejector the extractor drops it. It may just start to tip it up. You simply can't pull the slide back hard or fast enough to reproduce the correct ejection.

Corey
 
I'd really love to find a NP29 specific compatibility list of 1911 parts and places to buy everything I need/want. Barrel bushings, slide stops, extractors, ejectors, springs and sights, definitely sights!
 
HooliganD said:
I'd really love to find a NP29 specific compatibility list of 1911 parts and places to buy everything I need/want. Barrel bushings, slide stops, extractors, ejectors, springs and sights, definitely sights!
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I get all my stuff from Brownells. They have all that stuff. All the ignition parts will be the same, so trigger jobs are easy to perform. External parts all match. So customizing is pretty easy.
Corey
 
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