Modern Sporter builds Q&A

I've been emailing back and forth with Triggertech regarding this, and they've stated that the back of the housing can be machined/cut but you'd need a new (shorter) set screw in there.

With their newest release hanging just around the corner, and it looks to be an absolutely incredible trigger, I really want to make sure we have something figured out for a simple straight-forward solution for the compatibility with their larger trigger housings.

Yeah a guy could run a shorter screw in there if you want a little more pull weight, with it left out it just leaves the trigger at its lightest setting as far as I can tell. And this fits great without changing the rear pin setup as well.

That’s interesting they are coming out with a new release, I have always liked their triggers they have been my go-to between them and geissele sd-e in everything.
 
Yeah a guy could run a shorter screw in there if you want a little more pull weight, with it left out it just leaves the trigger at its lightest setting as far as I can tell. And this fits great without changing the rear pin setup as well.

That’s interesting they are coming out with a new release, I have always liked their triggers they have been my go-to between them and geissele sd-e in everything.

Backing the screw out to its lightest setting has led to uncontrollable mag dumps......taking it out entirely is not the method to get around this shortcoming.
 
I can’t post pictures but basically almost level with the rest of the pack, and then made a 45ish degree angle down on the back, you can see what material needs to go when looking at it

Fixed.
I am sure you could shorten the screw yourself if you are halfway competent, and TT advertises it to be safe....
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Backing the screw out to its lightest setting has led to uncontrollable mag dumps......taking it out entirely is not the method to get around this shortcoming.

I usually run them with just a couple clicks to put enough tension on that the screw doesn’t fall out so almost the same. Haven’t experienced one of these wild “uncontrollable mag dumps”. And like Shaun and I have already said could always put a screw in there if you are that concerned and like a heavier trigger pull.

And thanks for posting the pic scourge, could probably go a little less and get away with that’s just where I went to ensure no clearance issues. The bevel at the back does need to be there though.
 
I usually run them with just a couple clicks to put enough tension on that the screw doesn’t fall out so almost the same. Haven’t experienced one of these wild “uncontrollable mag dumps”. And like Shaun and I have already said could always put a screw in there if you are that concerned and like a heavier trigger pull.

And thanks for posting the pic scourge, could probably go a little less and get away with that’s just where I went to ensure no clearance issues. The bevel at the back does need to be there though.

Are you getting yours to fit without needing to remove the rear pin as well?
 
Hey guys. Whats that rly small spring on the lower just above the magwell. I cant figure out for the life of me what its for.
 
I usually run them with just a couple clicks to put enough tension on that the screw doesn’t fall out so almost the same. Haven’t experienced one of these wild “uncontrollable mag dumps”. And like Shaun and I have already said could always put a screw in there if you are that concerned and like a heavier trigger pull.

And thanks for posting the pic scourge, could probably go a little less and get away with that’s just where I went to ensure no clearance issues. The bevel at the back does need to be there though.

Don’t say you haven’t been warned.
 
I've been emailing back and forth with Triggertech regarding this, and they've stated that the back of the housing can be machined/cut but you'd need a new (shorter) set screw in there.

With their newest release hanging just around the corner, and it looks to be an absolutely incredible trigger, I really want to make sure we have something figured out for a simple straight-forward solution for the compatibility with their larger trigger housings.

Can material be grinder off the upper instead of the trigger?
 
Don’t say you haven’t been warned.

Has this actually happened to you personally or someone you know which wasn’t an accidental bump firing issue due to lack of knowledge and/or fundamentals? Or is this just from reading triggertech’s cya warnings on hammer follow and sear engagement?
 
Can material be grinder off the upper instead of the trigger?

The "hook" on the upper is what keeps it attached to the lower needless to say. A LITTLE material could be removed without any issue but not enough to allow for the needed clearance on the TT trigger. A combination of material being removed from the trigger housing, shorter screw and a little material being removed from the hook on the upper I believe would be the best option.
A file would be better than a grinder as it takes very little to reshape the hook and a grinder is simply not as controllable.
 
I could have removed a small amount of matarial from the hook and this would have allowed my HSNM trigger to work.
But it would probably kill resale value.
Also would this void warranty?
I do t think you want to use a grinder lol

Maybe a dremel or file.
 
I could have removed a small amount of matarial from the hook and this would have allowed my HSNM trigger to work.
But it would probably kill resale value.
Also would this void warranty?
I do t think you want to use a grinder lol

Maybe a dremel or file.

Any modifications will normally void warranties. You modify it at your own risk.
 
That's exactly what I did. I had a week moment where I contemplated hacking up the TT but since I had a different rifle with a Timney in it I just decided to switch them around. Kinda sucks because I do like the Trigger Tech better but whatever.

#firstworldproblems hahaha

Was it the Calvin Elite or another?
I like my CE but have not tried it in the MS, only the Stag.
Just curious if it would fit?
 
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