Favourite Hunting Bullets

I've often thought an A-frame/Partition style projectile with a pure copper front section (like TSX/GMX) and a cup n' core rear section would be the best of both worlds, carrying more weight per volume/size than pure copper but also much less likely to blast lead dust through the wound channel. I suspect it hasn't been done because the lack of front-to-back weight balance of the projectile might result in instability - but that's just a guess.
 
ironsighter said:
I've often thought an A-frame/Partition style projectile with a pure copper front section (like TSX/GMX) and a cup n' core rear section would be the best of both worlds, carrying more weight per volume/size than pure copper but also much less likely to blast lead dust through the wound channel. I suspect it hasn't been done because the lack of front-to-back weight balance of the projectile might result in instability - but that's just a guess.
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And would probably be expensive to manufacture!
 
45ACPKING said:
I don't really pick a side..... instead I use different bullets and loads/speeds to accomplish the task.
Say I'm hunting black tail deer or black bear in the steep coastal terrain, I want that load that dumps it's energy in the animal and put it down at or near point of impact(slightly loaded down .303 brit 180gr). Chasing or tracking animals in that terrain is far too dangerous. Whereas in open country, a pass thru is just fine by me and I want speed to keep the energy up at 300 and 400 yards. Though I have only had to track down 2 animals in my life, both shot at close range under 50 yards and with the fast loads (7mm mag 165)
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This is another great approach.
Works best when going out targeting a single species in a specific habitat/terrain type, such as bear hunting as described.

Where seasons are open for several species at the same time, such as in my neck of the woods, it can be more difficult to implement as you may have more than one tag in your pocket be hunting elk one moment in the dark timber, and mule deer in open pastures the next, and end up shooting a black bear or coyote on the way home. It happens! LOL
In such circumstances, if packing only one firearm, use the rifle/cartridge/bullet combination that best suits the largest species and terrain type that you may encounter on your planned outing. At the end of the day, there is no such thing as too dead! LOL
Otherwise, if an option in your area, take along a second rifle best suited for other opportunities.
 
medvedqc said:
posted elsewhere but Angus:

food for thought copper is not so nice material .... and brass used in some bullet is a mix of copper and zync ...
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It’s several orders of magnitude safer than lead, heck you can order a drink in a copper mug at any bar in Vancouver (Moscow Mule). Most of us still receive our drinking water from copper pipe too. :)

Life isn’t without risk, I just take enough of them cutting exposure to the easy ones to avoid, like lead in game meat, is worth it for me personally.

Dogleg said:
DRT bullets might be something you’d want to look into.
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News to me, will look them up. CEBs are decent but strike me as not having “nailed it” in the lead free game. They use Allen broaches as a manufacturing simplification to do the nose cavities, and it’s not the ideal system. Perhaps I need to dust off the lathe one day and make a few bullets that shed three petals that account for a third to half of the bullet’s mass, leaving a solid core to penetrate. I better stick to the day job for the foreseeable future though. :d
 
ironsighter said:
I've often thought an A-frame/Partition style projectile with a pure copper front section (like TSX/GMX) and a cup n' core rear section would be the best of both worlds, carrying more weight per volume/size than pure copper but also much less likely to blast lead dust through the wound channel. I suspect it hasn't been done because the lack of front-to-back weight balance of the projectile might result in instability - but that's just a guess.
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Sounds a bit like the Winchestef XP3 and before that the Fail-safe. Both are discontinued now.
 
In the last ten years I've hunted with a bunch of different bullets. Hornady ELDx, Berger VLD, Woodleigh Weldcore, Nosler Accubond, Nosler Accubond LR, Barnes LRX, Barnes TTSX, Barnes TSX, Nosler Partition, Swift A-Frame, Swift Scirocco, Speer FullCurl. If I had to stick to one it would be Nosler Accubond, seems to do well over a wide range of animals, angles and distances.
 
Ardent said:
It’s several orders of magnitude safer than lead, heck you can order a drink in a copper mug at any bar in Vancouver (Moscow Mule). Most of us still receive our drinking water from copper pipe too. :)

Life isn’t without risk, I just take enough of them cutting exposure to the easy ones to avoid, like lead in game meat, is worth it for me personally.



News to me, will look them up. CEBs are decent but strike me as not having “nailed it” in the lead free game. They use Allen broaches as a manufacturing simplification to do the nose cavities, and it’s not the ideal system. Perhaps I need to dust off the lathe one day and make a few bullets that shed three petals that account for a third to half of the bullet’s mass, leaving a solid core to penetrate. I better stick to the day job for the foreseeable future though. :d
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the problem with copper is when it is heated .... seems the bullet are not leaving the barrel without a little of heat.

i ve been raised with game taken with lead since very little and despite a lot of strange stuff that appears im still here for how long who knows ...
 
todbartell said:
In the last ten years I've hunted with a bunch of different bullets. Hornady ELDx, Berger VLD, Woodleigh Weldcore, Nosler Accubond, Nosler Accubond LR, Barnes LRX, Barnes TTSX, Barnes TSX, Nosler Partition, Swift A-Frame, Swift Scirocco, Speer FullCurl. If I had to stick to one it would be Nosler Accubond, seems to do well over a wide range of animals, angles and distances.
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X2 I totally agree ^^^^
 
Swift SC II

It just makes the most sense to me.

It's like a frame rail on a unibody car. It crumples where it needs to crumple and stays together beyond that.

I find the tip soft and thin enough to initiate nice expansion , the rear stays together to continue the push and the bonded jacket to the core doesn't allow it to fragment too badly at all.

They also use better lead and copper they say, pure.Not sure if this is a factor but it they work.

IMO the best all-round bullet for N/America and minimal failure rate.

I had a poll many moons ago with bullet failures.It was interesting.
 
redryder said:
Fantastic! Where in the hell can you still buy Kling Kors? Thought they might be worth more to a cartridge collector.
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I have a very large stash of 150, 174, 180 and 215 C.I.L. bullets in Sabre Tip, CPE, and KKSP- enough to last me the rest of my life!:cool:
However, I also have a mess of Speer's , Sierra's , and about 2250 Barnes 150 TSX''s as well.
I've killed animals with all of them, but the C.I.L. 215's are my favorite because of the mass.:dancingbanana:
Cat
 
Dogleg said:
Sounds a bit like the Winchestef XP3 and before that the Fail-safe. Both are discontinued now.
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"Well, would you look at that..."

I didn't have an original idea. :)

https://www.chuckhawks.com/winchester_supreme_XP3.htm

winchester_supreme_XP3_bullet.bmp
 
I bought so many Sierra game kings 25 years ago that I could shoot all the big game in the province twice and still have rounds left over...They worked then and still work today.
 
I love both Nosler Partitions and Hornady SST bullets for whitetail deer. I have used them in my 308 and 270 Winchester rifles. I find them accurate and very reliable at ranges from 50 to 200 yards and for field dressed deer weights between 80 lbs to 180 lbs.
 
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