add on cheekpiece

CyaN1de said:
Looks good..

How did you attach it? Got pics of it from all 4 sides?
Click to expand...

thanks: i used polyurathane glue, the stuff that auto
windsheilds are glued with. it's strong, UV proof, oil
and gasoline proof and it's paintable. i don't use silicone
anymore. the reason i used 1 1/4 drain pipe is that any
thing bigger is foam core while this is solid abs. bioling water is not hot enough, hot air gun not even enough and
u get heat blisters. old cookie sheet and oven , temp set to 360 deg F . remove when rubbery, put on stock , hold
for 2 min and it will cool to rock hard in that time.
cut ,file, sand and glue.
 
jbunny said:
thanks: i used polyurathane glue, the stuff that auto
windsheilds are glued with. it's strong, UV proof, oil
and gasoline proof and it's paintable. i don't use silicone
anymore. the reason i used 1 1/4 drain pipe is that any
thing bigger is foam core while this is solid abs. bioling water is not hot enough, hot air gun not even enough and
u get heat blisters. old cookie sheet and oven , temp set to 360 deg F . remove when rubbery, put on stock , hold
for 2 min and it will cool to rock hard in that time.
cut ,file, sand and glue.
Click to expand...

hat's off to you, looks great :rockOn:

when is the mass production come in play? DRAINPIPE INDUSTRIES :D
 
thanks: i used polyurathane glue, the stuff that auto
windsheilds are glued with. it's strong, UV proof, oil
and gasoline proof and it's paintable. i don't use silicone
anymore. the reason i used 1 1/4 drain pipe is that any
thing bigger is foam core while this is solid abs. bioling water is not hot enough, hot air gun not even enough and
u get heat blisters. old cookie sheet and oven , temp set to 360 deg F . remove when rubbery, put on stock , hold
for 2 min and it will cool to rock hard in that time.
cut ,file, sand and glue.
Click to expand...

Now that is innovation and resourcefulness at it's finest, hats off to you jbunny.
 
Jbunny, that is truly outstanding. On behalf of all the technical dweebs out here who love what you have done and would like to try to do it themselves some day, I have a humble request.

Could you possibly talk us through this, step-by-step?

I'm still trying to figure out how you got the exact curvature and elevation over the existing comb. Did you cut it and heat it until you could lay it as a flat sheet and shape it? If so, did you put some kind of temporary shim on the comb and mold it over the top?

Please, if it is not too much trouble, we would love some more detailed directions. This could go down as a classic fix for all kinds of rifles because comb height is a common gripe, especially with old bubbaized military stocks.

The technical dweebs thank you in advance.
 
.

I'm still trying to figure out how you got the exact curvature and elevation over the existing comb. Did you cut it and heat it until you could lay it as a flat sheet and shape it? If so, did you put some kind of temporary shim on the comb and mold it over the top?

Please, if it is not too much trouble, we would love some .
Ok this one was trial and error in getting the hight.
to do it proper, tape up the stock with masking tape,
then tape a wood dowel or a piece of tubing on top of
your stock and see if it fits. shim up under the dowel until it does. then take gyproc crack filler and fill the v gap
between the dowel and stock to make it smooth.
when the crack filler is dry mold the abs drain pipe
over the stock. as i stated , in a pm i used a band saw but
u could use a hand coping saw to shape. when installing on wood, drill and counter sink and use brass flt head wood screws. this is not rocket science.
best
Louis
 
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