Pretty much every match I've ever been to follows the basic PRS rule of being limited to .30cals at 3200fps or lower. I'm assuming he's looked into whether the matches in his area allow magnums or not. Like I said, it's not optimal and wouldn't be my suggestion for a caliber for this kind of shooting. When we just started out, a buddy of mine shot a win mag and did alright. He was pretty stoked when he switched to a 6.5 though. In any case, this dude is putting together a win mag and is looking forward to trying out PRS-style shooting. He'll figure out what works for him as he goes along.
Remington 700P in 300WM- A review, build and evaluation.
- Thread starter freedomintheskies
- Start date
Pretty much every match I've ever been to follows the basic PRS rule of being limited to .30cals at 3200fps or lower. I'm assuming he's looked into whether the matches in his area allow magnums or not. Like I said, it's not optimal and wouldn't be my suggestion for a caliber for this kind of shooting. When we just started out, a buddy of mine shot a win mag and did alright. He was pretty stoked when he switched to a 6.5 though. In any case, this dude is putting together a win mag and is looking forward to trying out PRS-style shooting. He'll figure out what works for him as he goes along.
I used to have a Rem 700 Police in .300 WinMag.
Had a killer 168 gr. matchload. Although it wouldn't be allowed in PRS as it was over 3300 fps.
Also had a pretty 190 gr. matchload.
I ended up selling it off.
As mentioned above it is not ideal for PRS type shooting due to recoil, staying on target, and the ability to spot your own hits.........
My 139 gr .260 Rem match load has the same performance as the .300 Win Mag matchload with a LOT less recoil. Easy to spot my bullet trace and hits on target.
As suggested you may want to look again at the 6mm and 6.5mm calibers.
But good luck with your project if you decide to continue........
Had a killer 168 gr. matchload. Although it wouldn't be allowed in PRS as it was over 3300 fps.
Also had a pretty 190 gr. matchload.
I ended up selling it off.
As mentioned above it is not ideal for PRS type shooting due to recoil, staying on target, and the ability to spot your own hits.........
My 139 gr .260 Rem match load has the same performance as the .300 Win Mag matchload with a LOT less recoil. Easy to spot my bullet trace and hits on target.
As suggested you may want to look again at the 6mm and 6.5mm calibers.
But good luck with your project if you decide to continue........
This ^^^
I had a 300win 5R Milspec and used the Accurate 3.775" mags, they let me load 208gr Hornady out to the lands with room to spare in the magazine.
Now I have a 7 Mag in the chassis the 300Win used to be in and the 3.775 have way more than enough room for the 162gr ELD-X I'm trying out first (new to me rifle).
Good luck with your project.
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
Great information. Thank you!
-And to everyone else, thank you for the comments whether they be for or against using .300WM in PRS. Truth be told, I just want to try it and I will use the rifle at ranges over 1000, as I can get to access to them. Living on PEI does present some problems with that regard, as the land here is so "chopped up". It makes finding a suitable place to reach out very difficult.
As far as recoil goes, I really don't mind it and with the Khantrol brake, it should be nulled somewhat. Certainly cant be much worse than firing .308 cal. 200gr FClass loads without a brake.
Re; damaging steel plate at a PRS match- I have a number of AR500 steel targets of my own and I have fired on them plenty. The only thing I've noticed is bullet splatter on them. Definitely not what I would call damage. Ive also shot them with milsurp steel ammo @100m and no damage whatsoever. That's just what I've found. YRMV. Like a buddy mentioned, the biggest problem may be experienced at 300yds, where a hit will make the plate dance big time.
The latest updates on the rifle and some of the accessories is that it will be delivered on Monday. It's gonna be a long weekend...
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
Well, Look what showed up! The Canada Post guy delivered it right to the door which saved me about an hour of driving.
It was well packed in the original Remington shipping box. I did notice a few rub marks on the Parkerized finish though but they generally rub out. The HS Precision stock has really nice stippling and features palm swells on both sides of the wrist. Being a lefty, it was a refreshing thing to see.
The trigger pull out of the box was a lawyer approved 3.5lbs. It was a simple matter to adjust it down to a respectable 1.5 lb. The factory offering is nice though, being a single stage unit which breaks cleanly with no perceptible creep and minimal overtravel.
Having said that, I set up a Veterans account with Triggertech and I have a 700 Special Edition on the way.
It was well packed in the original Remington shipping box. I did notice a few rub marks on the Parkerized finish though but they generally rub out. The HS Precision stock has really nice stippling and features palm swells on both sides of the wrist. Being a lefty, it was a refreshing thing to see.
The trigger pull out of the box was a lawyer approved 3.5lbs. It was a simple matter to adjust it down to a respectable 1.5 lb. The factory offering is nice though, being a single stage unit which breaks cleanly with no perceptible creep and minimal overtravel.
Having said that, I set up a Veterans account with Triggertech and I have a 700 Special Edition on the way.
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- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
I installed a Weaver Piccatiny 20 MOA rail on it after wiping the receiver and rail with brake clean to get rid of any oil. Then I applied some blue Loctite to the supplied screws and torqued them to the recommended 20in/lb.
Next up was the barrel and action cleaning. I found there was a bit of powder residue from the proof firing at the factory still remaining in the barrel. The action was typically grimy and free of any lubricant. After a thorough cleaning I lightly greased the locking lugs on the bolt and applied a light coating of oil to all moving parts. I used some Hoppes #9 on the bore, followed by a new product; Hoppes copper remover and after sitting for only 5 minutes, the patch came out the nicest shade of royal blue ever. I'm guessing this stuff really works.
Next up was the barrel and action cleaning. I found there was a bit of powder residue from the proof firing at the factory still remaining in the barrel. The action was typically grimy and free of any lubricant. After a thorough cleaning I lightly greased the locking lugs on the bolt and applied a light coating of oil to all moving parts. I used some Hoppes #9 on the bore, followed by a new product; Hoppes copper remover and after sitting for only 5 minutes, the patch came out the nicest shade of royal blue ever. I'm guessing this stuff really works.
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- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
Lets see now...
Wheeler scope rings.
While searching for a set of scope rings that would hold up to the recoil of the .300Win Mag, I stumbled upon these ones at a reasonable price. Unfortunately they are backordered for a month, but they are ordered none the less. Anyone here have any experience with these? They look similar to Spuhr, but are less than a quarter the price and have a nice fold up bubble level.
Wheeler scope rings.
While searching for a set of scope rings that would hold up to the recoil of the .300Win Mag, I stumbled upon these ones at a reasonable price. Unfortunately they are backordered for a month, but they are ordered none the less. Anyone here have any experience with these? They look similar to Spuhr, but are less than a quarter the price and have a nice fold up bubble level.
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Good on you Atlantic,,, I was in the same situation a few years back as I was working up a Remmy LR in 30/06. About 12 ish lbs,,, Jewel trigger,,, re-worked the bedding in the stiff Bell & Carlson stock then added a 6x24 optic from Sightron... Definitely a tack driver when I can make it happen. LOL
Eventually I had a custom F Class rig built to help with the over all shooting sport,,, but my Remmy LR is pretty capable of holding in there so long as I get it planted on top of the steel plate and level out the Remple Bypod.
Of course I lighten the trigger up for target shooting,,, 6 ish oz,,, 4 oz is is definitely to light.
A benefit of my LR is being able to use it in any competion,,, general plinking,,, and hunting which is my main category I follow.
The 2 rifle / 1 cartridge thing is underway way this summer,,, that way I can keep everything the same in the ammo department,,, this is my plan.
Congrats on your project as you get to follow your own lead into good times ahead,,, that's what really counts.
Cheers from Western Canada Don
Eventually I had a custom F Class rig built to help with the over all shooting sport,,, but my Remmy LR is pretty capable of holding in there so long as I get it planted on top of the steel plate and level out the Remple Bypod.
Of course I lighten the trigger up for target shooting,,, 6 ish oz,,, 4 oz is is definitely to light.
A benefit of my LR is being able to use it in any competion,,, general plinking,,, and hunting which is my main category I follow.
The 2 rifle / 1 cartridge thing is underway way this summer,,, that way I can keep everything the same in the ammo department,,, this is my plan.
Congrats on your project as you get to follow your own lead into good times ahead,,, that's what really counts.
Cheers from Western Canada Don
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
Yesterday was my first outing to the range with the rifle.
Break in of the barrel was completed using the following method. 1-shot/clean for the first 5 rounds, then 3 shots/ clean for the next 5 strings, followed by another 3x 5 shot strings with a cleaning after each string.
Initial impressions:
Since the trip to the range was primarily for break in, I didn't expect much for good groups. I was pleasantly humbled. Shooting 175 gr Sierra Tipped Match Kings, the best group (3 rds. @100) was just a little less than .4". The best 5 shot string at 300yds was a hair under 2", with the average group size running just over 2". Keep in mind that all the groups were shot from a fresh bore, so one shot per string tended to be a wee bit "out there" from the rest of the bullets holes. One group of 185 Juggs was fired and results were typical of the Sierras.
Muzzle brake: The first shot down range saw the Kahntrol muzzle brake travelling 50 yards downrange from the firing point. My best guess is that when I brought the rifle outdoors into the cold, there was enough contraction of metals (aluminum brake/steel barrel) that it became loose enough to become a projectile. Since I live 4km from the range, I made a quick trip home for tools and installed the brake back on the rifle, tightening the 6 cap screws as much as I dared. WHen I was doing a check of the rifle and final cleaning after the range session, I did find that there was significant erosion of the rear facing surfaces of the brakes' gills. I would attribute this to hot gasses acting like a blow torch, similar to turbine erosion on jet engines. I addressed the concerns to Jeremy at Kahntrol and he responded very quickly with the following.
"That's to be expected to an extent. What you see now should be about the "settling" in and knocking the edges off, and won't really get any worse. Even with any erosion, that barrel will be way past usable(shot out) before there's any issues with performance or accuracy, and if you do, i'll send you a new one."
Thanks,
Jeremy
Jeremy Kahn
336 453 5272
Owner: Kahntrol Solutions
This is reassuring, since the brake was $149.00 plus tax and shipping.
Below is a picture of the brake as installed.
One other thing that I wanted to check was the fit of the stock to the receiver. I saw a picture on another site that Remington was using a plastic shim between the bottom metal and stock on the tang end of the receiver. Guess what- Mine is the same. I cannot for the life of me figure why they would use plastic instead of brass or stainless. Apparently, it's there to provide proper magazine well spacing on the receiver. Anyone have any wisdom on this? Should I replace it with shim stock? (Picture below)
All in all, it's not a bad rifle I suppose. Not a great one, but for the price point, it's to be suspected, I suppose.
I'll continue the testing and evaluation this weekend and will post updates as things progress. More parts and pieces continue to make their way here so there will be more on that too. Below is a pic of the rifle as it sits right now with a Nightforce BR 12-40x50 scope on it.
Break in of the barrel was completed using the following method. 1-shot/clean for the first 5 rounds, then 3 shots/ clean for the next 5 strings, followed by another 3x 5 shot strings with a cleaning after each string.
Initial impressions:
Since the trip to the range was primarily for break in, I didn't expect much for good groups. I was pleasantly humbled. Shooting 175 gr Sierra Tipped Match Kings, the best group (3 rds. @100) was just a little less than .4". The best 5 shot string at 300yds was a hair under 2", with the average group size running just over 2". Keep in mind that all the groups were shot from a fresh bore, so one shot per string tended to be a wee bit "out there" from the rest of the bullets holes. One group of 185 Juggs was fired and results were typical of the Sierras.
Muzzle brake: The first shot down range saw the Kahntrol muzzle brake travelling 50 yards downrange from the firing point. My best guess is that when I brought the rifle outdoors into the cold, there was enough contraction of metals (aluminum brake/steel barrel) that it became loose enough to become a projectile. Since I live 4km from the range, I made a quick trip home for tools and installed the brake back on the rifle, tightening the 6 cap screws as much as I dared. WHen I was doing a check of the rifle and final cleaning after the range session, I did find that there was significant erosion of the rear facing surfaces of the brakes' gills. I would attribute this to hot gasses acting like a blow torch, similar to turbine erosion on jet engines. I addressed the concerns to Jeremy at Kahntrol and he responded very quickly with the following.
"That's to be expected to an extent. What you see now should be about the "settling" in and knocking the edges off, and won't really get any worse. Even with any erosion, that barrel will be way past usable(shot out) before there's any issues with performance or accuracy, and if you do, i'll send you a new one."
Thanks,
Jeremy
Jeremy Kahn
336 453 5272
Owner: Kahntrol Solutions
This is reassuring, since the brake was $149.00 plus tax and shipping.
Below is a picture of the brake as installed.
One other thing that I wanted to check was the fit of the stock to the receiver. I saw a picture on another site that Remington was using a plastic shim between the bottom metal and stock on the tang end of the receiver. Guess what- Mine is the same. I cannot for the life of me figure why they would use plastic instead of brass or stainless. Apparently, it's there to provide proper magazine well spacing on the receiver. Anyone have any wisdom on this? Should I replace it with shim stock? (Picture below)
All in all, it's not a bad rifle I suppose. Not a great one, but for the price point, it's to be suspected, I suppose.
I'll continue the testing and evaluation this weekend and will post updates as things progress. More parts and pieces continue to make their way here so there will be more on that too. Below is a pic of the rifle as it sits right now with a Nightforce BR 12-40x50 scope on it.
Attachments
![20190313_092003[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/216/216469-1964bd791c59440a7ad8dabf8bb1cdda.jpg)
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
New trigger install
So, the parts keep rolling in.
This mornings' bounty was the new TriggerTech Special Edition with straight trigger blade.
Installation was a piece of cake and TriggerTech has a great installation booklet included in the package, in case you have trouble. It took all of about 10 minutes to install it. The only adjustment I had to make was to the bolt release lever where it contacts the bolt release. it was sticking, so I tweaked the lever (aft) so it made contact at the back notch of the release. Now it's perfect.
I also adjusted the trigger to the lightest setting. It broke nicely at between .5 and .75 pounds.
Am I happy with it? You Betcha!!
So, the parts keep rolling in.
This mornings' bounty was the new TriggerTech Special Edition with straight trigger blade.
Installation was a piece of cake and TriggerTech has a great installation booklet included in the package, in case you have trouble. It took all of about 10 minutes to install it. The only adjustment I had to make was to the bolt release lever where it contacts the bolt release. it was sticking, so I tweaked the lever (aft) so it made contact at the back notch of the release. Now it's perfect.
I also adjusted the trigger to the lightest setting. It broke nicely at between .5 and .75 pounds.
Am I happy with it? You Betcha!!
Attachments
Did you bed the action yet? Sorry if I over read it. I recently bought my first Triggertech think they are fantastic. I was not happy with Timney triggers that I also had two of. Are you going ahead with the Atlasworx mag system? we fit quite a few of them and my 300wm also has one as well as most of my rifles. I think it is a good idea to bed action and bottom metal on any precision rifle. I know a 300 can be a bit pushy but with a good muzzle brake better than a 308 with a lousy muzzle brake... as I found out.
good luck with the build, looking good so far.
edi
good luck with the build, looking good so far.
edi
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
EJG,
I will be going with some sort of bottom metal. I just don't know 100% which one. price, availability and ease of fitment all come into the equation. Re; the bedding, I will most likely go ahead and bed the recoil lug at a minimum. WHen I torqued the action bolts I did it with the action fully to the rear of the stock and under rearward tension. I was out to the range today and fired a few groups of ammo that I handloaded (More of a guess at powder charge than anything) and had some pretty reasonable 3 round groups at 100. I would have shot from 300 or 500 but our range is right on the shore of the Atlantic ocean and with warm (ish) air blowing over the ice created some localized fog, which was right over the target erectors. You cant hit what you cant see.
I will be going with some sort of bottom metal. I just don't know 100% which one. price, availability and ease of fitment all come into the equation. Re; the bedding, I will most likely go ahead and bed the recoil lug at a minimum. WHen I torqued the action bolts I did it with the action fully to the rear of the stock and under rearward tension. I was out to the range today and fired a few groups of ammo that I handloaded (More of a guess at powder charge than anything) and had some pretty reasonable 3 round groups at 100. I would have shot from 300 or 500 but our range is right on the shore of the Atlantic ocean and with warm (ish) air blowing over the ice created some localized fog, which was right over the target erectors. You cant hit what you cant see.
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
Here is a quick video and a couple pix from today at the range.
![received_404708726753484[1].jpg](https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/data/attachments/217/217101-d9fed338e2cc26e25c16544081a34f7e.jpg "received_404708726753484[1].jpg")
![received_2306585726292409[1].jpg](https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/data/attachments/217/217106-e696ed65d1ddca63874690d8364023ad.jpg "received_2306585726292409[1].jpg")
The load was 175gr Tipped Match Kings over 75.5gr N-560 powder in a PPU unfired case and a CCI large rifle magnum primer.
I didn't measure them with a caliper but the patches were .75" . The worst group of all was right around and inch and the best was well under 1/2". Average was just inside the .75" patch (gross measurement as opposed to net)
Pretty happy so far. I think the rifle has potential.
The load was 175gr Tipped Match Kings over 75.5gr N-560 powder in a PPU unfired case and a CCI large rifle magnum primer.
I didn't measure them with a caliper but the patches were .75" . The worst group of all was right around and inch and the best was well under 1/2". Average was just inside the .75" patch (gross measurement as opposed to net)
Pretty happy so far. I think the rifle has potential.
Attachments
![received_404708726753484[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/217/217101-d9fed338e2cc26e25c16544081a34f7e.jpg)
![received_2306585726292409[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/217/217106-e696ed65d1ddca63874690d8364023ad.jpg)
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- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
Only one more update for now, although I will be taking the rifle out again later today to try out some informal PRS style shooting off barricades and such.
The Tac-Pro adjustable cheek piece arrived and it was a snap to install. I have a nice soft piece of leather that will be covering it to make it less slippery and will give it just a wee bit of a cushion. Pix to follow.
The Tac-Pro adjustable cheek piece arrived and it was a snap to install. I have a nice soft piece of leather that will be covering it to make it less slippery and will give it just a wee bit of a cushion. Pix to follow.
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
Here is a pic of the cheek-piece on the rifle
![20190323_105754[1].jpg](https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/data/attachments/218/218749-e10df39d2bb6be011c4101cece52d3fb.jpg "20190323_105754[1].jpg")
With the addition of some nice, soft leather, you tend to get a better cheek weld on the stock and it is not as cold in winter or slippery in summer.
This is one of the rifle as it sits right now and another from some testing the other day (5 rd group @100 using Sierra 175 TMK's over 76.5 gr. N560 powder) At 300yds., the group opens up to just under 2". Not bad, but I believe it's much more capable than that.
I'm still waiting on a Hornady modified case so I can set my seating depth better, as I have no idea how far off the lands I am right now.
I also got some 210 gr. Nosler RDF bullets, Berger 200Hybrids and some 200.20X Bergers to try out and I'm picking up some H1000, 4831SC and 7828SSC powders and Hornady 208ELD-M bullets this week.
Now I just need a place to stretch it out further than 600.
![20190323_110232[1].jpg](https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/data/attachments/218/218757-5a4fc3bebca76d9e7d9a8838e3fd68c9.jpg "20190323_110232[1].jpg")
![20190320_155317[1].jpg](https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/data/attachments/218/218758-b947d91d07fcf063b81e91798af09eea.jpg "20190320_155317[1].jpg")
With the addition of some nice, soft leather, you tend to get a better cheek weld on the stock and it is not as cold in winter or slippery in summer.
This is one of the rifle as it sits right now and another from some testing the other day (5 rd group @100 using Sierra 175 TMK's over 76.5 gr. N560 powder) At 300yds., the group opens up to just under 2". Not bad, but I believe it's much more capable than that.
I'm still waiting on a Hornady modified case so I can set my seating depth better, as I have no idea how far off the lands I am right now.
I also got some 210 gr. Nosler RDF bullets, Berger 200Hybrids and some 200.20X Bergers to try out and I'm picking up some H1000, 4831SC and 7828SSC powders and Hornady 208ELD-M bullets this week.
Now I just need a place to stretch it out further than 600.
Attachments
![20190319_095941[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/218/218747-c291e42b60801e8f97a224b9e5db26d7.jpg)
![20190323_105754[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/218/218749-e10df39d2bb6be011c4101cece52d3fb.jpg)
![20190323_110232[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/218/218757-5a4fc3bebca76d9e7d9a8838e3fd68c9.jpg)
![20190320_155317[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/218/218758-b947d91d07fcf063b81e91798af09eea.jpg)
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I have the exact same rifle, still brand new in the box, your post is very inspiring, I think but I'm not sure that 700P with a 26" and none 5R barrel are discontinued, only 5R 24" barrels are listed. Good work on your rifle. I really like the look of the DBM on the 700P.
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
Buster,
I saw the same thing on the Remington site. They must be following the trend of making everything with scout length barrels. I'm not sure why that is, but for a rifle that is designed to be used as a precision instrument and not packed up and down mountains on an elk hunt, why not go with the extra barrel length? While all the rage and hype is for 5R barrels, I'm really not all that convinced that they shoot better. My F-Class gun will shoot some really tight groups with its 4R barrel and I've had many other rifles that were great performers without the extra land and neighboring groove. -Again, just my personal opinion.
Thank you for the nice comments. Much appreciated.
As far as the continuing build/test of the rifle, I will be heading to Ottawa tomorrow for the DCRA annual meetings, so I'll not likely be posting much till I get home next Monday. Then we have to determine the condition of the range road (Extreme mud!). If we want to keep it passable, We can't be creating foot deep ruts in it.
Reloading: I've ordered some powder/ bullets from Higginsons and X-Reload, so I'll be stopping on the way to Ottawa to pick up the orders. When all is said and done, there will be 4 different bullets and 5 powders to choose from. (reads as "an excuse to go shoot").
Freedom out...
- Location
- On a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean.
It's been a while-
Since the last post, I have only had the rifle out once or twice to try a few different hand-loads.
208 Hornady ELD-M/ VV N150/ CCI Magnum primer.
210 gr. Nosler RDF/ IMR7828SSC/ CCI Magnum primer
The results were less than stellar on the 208 ELD's. I'm thinking of changing powders and shooting them again.
Nothing so far shoots as well as yet through the rifle than the 175 gr. Sierra Tipped Match Kings, although a good load would be the Berger 185 Juggernauts (I can't afford to part with my supply of 200.20X, so that's just not gonna happen.
Due to selling a couple things, I found myself swapping some optics around on a few rifles, which led to a frenzied research for a decent mid grade scope for the rifle. Since it was built to scratch the surface of PRS and maybe some 1000+ shooting it needed glass that was easy to use (MOA, because I hate the metric system for shooting), robust, has a track record of performing well and around the 1.5K price range.
Candidates were:
Zeiss Conquest V4 Rifle Scope 6-24x50mm with #93 ZMOA-1 - I was this close! Ultimately it came down to the smallest detail- The windage cap. For the simple reason of being able to dial in wind conditions is as important as being able to dial elevation and more so in the PRS game of many varying ranges. For that reason, I just like exposed turrets.
Vortex something something Gen 2 Full Stop- I'm just not a Vortex person, although I do like the turret layout on a few models.
Nikon Black FX1000 6-24x50 - Not at all a bad looking scope. well thought out dials and markings. Looks like a solid scope.
Burris XTR II Scope 5-25x50mm with Illuminated SCR MOA Reticle -
The one I chose;
Leupold VX-3i LRP Scope 6.5-20x50mm with FFP, 60MOA Reticle and Side Parallax.
It was used to win the 2018 PRS US Championship, which is pretty interesting and certainly relevant. (the picture below shows a different reticle.)
Leupold scopes are made in the U.S.A. and have a lifetime warranty. I was honestly not even considering Leupold optics, but this scope grabbed my attention.
Great finish. it matches the rifle to a tee.
The elevation knob has a neat skirt that drops down to show you attenuations (times around the dial) as you dial up elevation.
Nice quality stainless cap screws on turrets. Beats cheap anodized aluminum ones hands down and will last a long time, but it would be nicer to have a tool-less ability to re-zero on the fly.
It came with a thread cover so you can run the scope without the windage cap installed, a throw lever, Lens protectors, wrenches, paperwork and a sticker. A sunshade would be a good addition to the box of goods.
Mounting was in the Vortex Tactical 6 screw rings. They are 1.25", but I think I could get away with lower ones, since there is about a 1/2" gap between the objective end of the tube to the barrel. It's not the end of the world at this point since there is an adjustable cheek piece installed.
The plan is to get out before the weekend and zero it, then possible venture to the PRS that Tony is putting on in Gagetown this weekend. Either that or just hang near home and shoot out to 600yds.
![20190515_204412[1].jpg](https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/data/attachments/232/232366-702084cf85cc393d3ae47ac09e0e86b3.jpg "20190515_204412[1].jpg")
![20190515_204311[1].jpg](https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/data/attachments/232/232367-489fa7ab175ca1170908105e52bf42b5.jpg "20190515_204311[1].jpg")
![20190515_204255[1].jpg](https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/data/attachments/232/232365-a9c123705b33f9bdd03d4a42da1e099e.jpg "20190515_204255[1].jpg")
Since the last post, I have only had the rifle out once or twice to try a few different hand-loads.
208 Hornady ELD-M/ VV N150/ CCI Magnum primer.
210 gr. Nosler RDF/ IMR7828SSC/ CCI Magnum primer
The results were less than stellar on the 208 ELD's. I'm thinking of changing powders and shooting them again.
Nothing so far shoots as well as yet through the rifle than the 175 gr. Sierra Tipped Match Kings, although a good load would be the Berger 185 Juggernauts (I can't afford to part with my supply of 200.20X, so that's just not gonna happen.
Due to selling a couple things, I found myself swapping some optics around on a few rifles, which led to a frenzied research for a decent mid grade scope for the rifle. Since it was built to scratch the surface of PRS and maybe some 1000+ shooting it needed glass that was easy to use (MOA, because I hate the metric system for shooting), robust, has a track record of performing well and around the 1.5K price range.
Candidates were:
Zeiss Conquest V4 Rifle Scope 6-24x50mm with #93 ZMOA-1 - I was this close! Ultimately it came down to the smallest detail- The windage cap. For the simple reason of being able to dial in wind conditions is as important as being able to dial elevation and more so in the PRS game of many varying ranges. For that reason, I just like exposed turrets.
Vortex something something Gen 2 Full Stop- I'm just not a Vortex person, although I do like the turret layout on a few models.
Nikon Black FX1000 6-24x50 - Not at all a bad looking scope. well thought out dials and markings. Looks like a solid scope.
Burris XTR II Scope 5-25x50mm with Illuminated SCR MOA Reticle -
The one I chose;
Leupold VX-3i LRP Scope 6.5-20x50mm with FFP, 60MOA Reticle and Side Parallax.
It was used to win the 2018 PRS US Championship, which is pretty interesting and certainly relevant. (the picture below shows a different reticle.)
Leupold scopes are made in the U.S.A. and have a lifetime warranty. I was honestly not even considering Leupold optics, but this scope grabbed my attention.
Great finish. it matches the rifle to a tee.
The elevation knob has a neat skirt that drops down to show you attenuations (times around the dial) as you dial up elevation.
Nice quality stainless cap screws on turrets. Beats cheap anodized aluminum ones hands down and will last a long time, but it would be nicer to have a tool-less ability to re-zero on the fly.
It came with a thread cover so you can run the scope without the windage cap installed, a throw lever, Lens protectors, wrenches, paperwork and a sticker. A sunshade would be a good addition to the box of goods.
Mounting was in the Vortex Tactical 6 screw rings. They are 1.25", but I think I could get away with lower ones, since there is about a 1/2" gap between the objective end of the tube to the barrel. It's not the end of the world at this point since there is an adjustable cheek piece installed.
The plan is to get out before the weekend and zero it, then possible venture to the PRS that Tony is putting on in Gagetown this weekend. Either that or just hang near home and shoot out to 600yds.
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