Wk180-C technical questions & answers only

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Reclaimer117 said:
Great, thanks. I had a pair of extended takedown pins kicking around and thought I could use them. The pin will fit snugly but the detent and spring can't be used. I'll check out RWA.
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Yes, I should have said there is no detent and spring to hold in an AR pin......

The RWA unit is a good fit and I like the screw idea better than the clip
 
Has anyone had the set screw that holds the gas piston assembly (Not the screws that hold the gas block on the barrel) come loose? i took my rifle out today and started breaking it it in. After i did the run in procedure i continued to pound about 500 rds through her, and it started to have failure to extract and then it got too cold. When i got home to start cleaning it i noticed the set screw was loose and i wondered if it backed out enough if it would render it a bolt action? luckily i never lost the screw but i was wondering if it would be advised or not advised to blue locktite this set screw? As for the accuracy and function this rifle is a definite winner with the plastic magpul buis sights i was very impressed how it prints.
 
nickvaselino said:
Has anyone had the set screw that holds the gas piston assembly (Not the screws that hold the gas block on the barrel) come loose? i took my rifle out today and started breaking it it in. After i did the run in procedure i continued to pound about 500 rds through her, and it started to have failure to extract and then it got too cold. When i got home to start cleaning it i noticed the set screw was loose and i wondered if it backed out enough if it would render it a bolt action? luckily i never lost the screw but i was wondering if it would be advised or not advised to blue locktite this set screw? As for the accuracy and function this rifle is a definite winner with the plastic magpul buis sights i was very impressed how it prints.
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There is a little piece inside the gas block that the large set screw holds in place. The bottom of that little piece has a hole in it that aligns with the gas port in the barrel/gas block. If that screw backs out the piece it holds inside will also move forward and cause the holes to become misaligned. This will restrict and/or completely shut the gas flow off to the piston, which would be the cause of the failures you started experiencing.

I have never had an issue with mine backing out so I won't advise whether or not a bit of loctite would be a good/bad idea.

I would pretty much suspect that the problem was that the set screw simply wasn't very tight when installed at the factory. I gave mine a good going over before using and most everything on it was not very tight.

Try tightening it back down good and tight and give it another whirl before you decide to get the loctite out.
 
jiffx2781 said:
There is a little piece inside the gas block that the large set screw holds in place. The bottom of that little piece has a hole in it that aligns with the gas port in the barrel/gas block. If that screw backs out the piece it holds inside will also move forward and cause the holes to become misaligned. This will restrict and/or completely shut the gas flow off to the piston, which would be the cause of the failures you started experiencing.

I have never had an issue with mine backing out so I won't advise whether or not a bit of loctite would be a good/bad idea.

I would pretty much suspect that the problem was that the set screw simply wasn't very tight when installed at the factory. I gave mine a good going over before using and most everything on it was not very tight.

Try tightening it back down good and tight and give it another whirl before you decide to get the loctite out.
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Thanks for the advice, i loctited the screws that do the handguard but never even suspected the gas system. I had a suspicion that it may have been the culprit, cant wait to go out again and put more rounds through it!
 
Was there ever a real update on upper receiver wear problems? Also I don't understand this whole bolt handle magnet thing, I realize the magnet is now more secure but what kind of design relies on a magnet to hold something together?
 
Brass deflector in place (marks are from before the deflector was installed). Have not shot it with the deflector in place but fit and design for retaining it looks pretty good.

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ravenstarver said:
Was there ever a real update on upper receiver wear problems? Also I don't understand this whole bolt handle magnet thing, I realize the magnet is now more secure but what kind of design relies on a magnet to hold something together?
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With the bolt handle mounted on the left side it's also retained by the receiver. If mounted on the right hand side though....I'd probably be concerned about losing it.
 
toxic said:
With the bolt handle mounted on the left side it's also retained by the receiver. If mounted on the right hand side though....I'd probably be concerned about losing it.
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How? Bolt does not slide far back enough to be able to get the handle out without opening the upper, or did I missunderstand your concern?
 
Just to clear up a few points on the charging handle. The handle fitted with the magnet can not come out of the rifle until the rifle is "broken open" and the handle pulled all the way to the rear. The purpose of the magnet is not to act as a retainer but to hold the handle away from the receiver wall when the rifle is cycling.

As has already been stated here, current production rifles are now fitted with a threaded in charging handle which is not fitted with a magnet. Insure this is kept tight when operating the rifle.

Current production rifles also have the gas block secured with two allen screws not cross pins.
 
Very interesting to see the genesis of this rifle evolve, the comments say in a year from now will have identified any or most of its deficiencies, and strong points. Credos to Wolverine for starting this project, is to be admired. "the Canadian Aberdeen proving grounds"
 
Mr Wolverine said:
Just to clear up a few points on the charging handle. The handle fitted with the magnet can not come out of the rifle until the rifle is "broken open" and the handle pulled all the way to the rear. The purpose of the magnet is not to act as a retainer but to hold the handle away from the receiver wall when the rifle is cycling.

As has already been stated here, current production rifles are now fitted with a threaded in charging handle which is not fitted with a magnet. Insure this is kept tight when operating the rifle.

Current production rifles also have the gas block secured with two allen screws not cross pins.
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Is there any way to get a new charging handle and parts to update my gun to this? My charging handle has been eating away at the receiver. About 1/8" into it and Kodiak said it's just cosmetic. I had no idea of the update.
 
shak541 said:
Is there any way to get a new charging handle and parts to update my gun to this? My charging handle has been eating away at the receiver. About 1/8" into it and Kodiak said it's just cosmetic. I had no idea of the update.
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Me too. I am not a fan of the magnet and would like to upgrade to the screw in handle. I hope Kodiak comes through for existing WK owners on this.
 
Baitcaster said:
Me too. I am not a fan of the magnet and would like to upgrade to the screw in handle. I hope Kodiak comes through for existing WK owners on this.
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I was wondering the same thing. That’s honestly the only part of the design I don’t like. It’s not a very strong magnet
 
Does the screw in the charging handle attachment need matching threading on the bolt, meaning a new bolt would be needed for those with the magnetic handle, or at the least threading would need to be machined into the sockets?
 
Mr.Subzero said:
What is the break in period again?
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From the manual:
Kodiak Defence Inc. recommends the following break-in procedure:
1. Fire 9 single shots. After each shot, push a cotton patch wet with solvent through the bore. Then wet a nylon brush with solvent and stroke the barrel five to ten round trips. Follow with
another wet patch and then a dry patch or two.
2. From 10 to 30 shots, clean as above after each five shots. Initial break-in should now be complete.

For normal cleaning, it is suggested that you clean after each range session.
 
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