Modern Sporter photo thread

Finally finished mine. Did it on the cheap so I could afford a second upper.

open

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lotJCvNJbl8RQ8ENcJVokTGhPvdPSCf8

MRA 223 Wylde Barrel
S&J linear compensator
BCL Nitrade BCG
DD lower parts kit
Ergo grip
Magpul MOE stock
Aero Precision Quantum Handguard
 
So I’m new to the ar world ....and I have to say people ...nice builds very nice ......
So whats accuracy like ....say at ...200...to say 600 meters
Are the ar ‘s an accurate gun ...or more of a spray and pray.....
About how much money does one have to sink into a ar type rifle to make it accurate
224 Valkyrie...a 223...or a 6.5 Grendel or creedmoor...etc..etc..etc..
Please enlighten me
Thanks all
 
So I’m new to the ar world ....and I have to say people ...nice builds very nice ......
So whats accuracy like ....say at ...200...to say 600 meters
Are the ar ‘s an accurate gun ...or more of a spray and pray.....
About how much money does one have to sink into a ar type rifle to make it accurate
224 Valkyrie...a 223...or a 6.5 Grendel or creedmoor...etc..etc..etc..
Please enlighten me
Thanks all

Theres a lot of factors in play, but in my opinion if any of the following is not done correctly you will not be able to shoot accurately.
- Free floating your barrel with good handguard, torqued correctly, I'd like to be on the tight side
- Barrel quality (avoid chrome lined) and stiffness (unless you cool your barrel down 5 minutes between shots), 1/7 or 1/8 twist
- Good trigger (Think Geissele)
- Good stable bipod and rear sand bag
- Good ammunition (Try 77gr OTM SMK)
- Good muzzle brake so you don't flinch the moment before you break the shot. Make sure it's mounted tight. I'd go for the shim method.
- Good scope, good reticle, $1500+
- Good mount, and mounted correctly, pushed forward when tightening onto picatinny, and not bridging between handguard rail and receiver rail
- Anti-cant bubble level so your shot to shot canting is minimal
- Correct posture behind the gun, i.e. load your bipod forward with your shoulder with consistence force, best to apply enough force so that bipod legs are ALMOST slipping but not quite, this helps with consistent shoulder pressure from shot to shot.
- Dry fire a bunch while looking through the scope to teach yourself about how your trigger finger behaves before and after the trigger breaks.
- Stable platform to shoot on, preferrably the ground

Perhaps you might be able to do this with about $3-5k depending what parts you source

Doing all these correctly and you might get consistent 0.5-0.75 MOA
 
Last edited:
So I've got a few hundred rds through mine and finally got around to doing some accuracy testing while trying to find a good "mid range" load for it.

Rifle has a lilja 1in7" 18.6" barrel profiled to match a Faxon gunner(pretty damn light, most would call it a pencil barrel).

Top left: Berger 77gr OTM Tactical, 23.5gr IMR 8208 XBR, LC Brass, CCI 450 Primer
Top Right: 77gr Berger OTM Tactical 23.5gr Varget, LC Brass, CCI 450 Primer
Bottom Left: Hornany Frontier 55gr FMJBT
Bottom Right: 69gr SMK, 25.0gr Varget, LC Brass, CCI 450 Primer

On the top right target I shot the first 4 rounds that fell into 0.51" and then had to break position to take a call(I know, timing right) and the 5th shot opened it up to 1.25".

cs7Pazv.jpg


I apparently need to look into my process for loading my "blaster" 55gr loads after this test:
Left: Hornady Frontier 55gr FMJBT
Middle: Hornady 55gr FMJBT (same bullet as Frontier), 24.7gr H335, Mixed Brass, CCI 450
Right: Same as above

z5SxKWF.jpg
 
Top left: Berger 77gr OTM Tactical, 23.5gr IMR 8208 XBR, LC Brass, CCI 450 Primer
Top Right: 77gr Berger OTM Tactical 23.5gr Varget, LC Brass, CCI 450 Primer
Bottom Left: Hornany Frontier 55gr FMJBT
Bottom Right: 69gr SMK, 25.0gr Varget, LC Brass, CCI 450 Primer

With the exception of you using CCI No. 450 instead of 400s, you and I have the exact same 5.56 loads.
 
Back
Top Bottom