New 686 woes.

At least you know it will be good when it returns. Charlton does great work and will make it right. I have used them over the years for some various stuff and have had great results every time..
Cheers
dB:)
 
You'll be a VERY happy camper when it comes back, Charlton trigger jobs are great, and they go bang every time
 
So the gun is back home. I think she looks pretty sweet. The S/A is certainly lighter and the D/A is a great deal smoother but she don't always go bang. I talked to Murray and he tells me not to sweat it, just adjust 'er until she does go bang everytime and, when I'm ready, send it in to him for a final polish once I figure out what kind of weight I can get away with. This is the first time I've ever had anything like this done to a gun so I'm going to follow his advice. For anyone who doesn't already know Mr. Charlton is a very easy man to talk to and has been very generous with his time and effort on my new iron.

And now.....photos!

In all of her bead blasted glory.
686Finish.jpg


Trigger
686TriggerStop.jpg


New, blingy 14k front sight. :cool:
686FrontSight.jpg
 
I've always thought S&W triggers were pretty good out of the box although I have'nt bought one recently. Has S&W's trigger quality gone downhill as of late?
 
A recomended smith for revolvers???

Who is Charlton. A recommended smith for revolvers???

I own more than a few revolvers.
My main man, Gunnar, is enjoying some well earned time away from the tools.

I would like to find a recommended smith for revolvers???
 
I need more info here...

Just so you people know, the mainspring strain screw isn't an adjustment screw, it's meant to be bottomed out in the frame grip.

All respects Repete (I have seen you have lots of good info to offer this forum) but I need to ask if it is not an adjustment why is there a screw there.:confused:

I have also heard it is an adjustment. I own own a few smiths, I want to know.
 
All respects Repete (I have seen you have lots of good info to offer this forum) but I need to ask if it is not an adjustment why is there a screw there.:confused:

I have also heard it is an adjustment. I own own a few smiths, I want to know.

I'm a Smith and Wesson factory armourer, and whomever told you that it's an adjustment screw is absolutely wrong!

The strain screw is just that. It is there to keep constant tension on the mainspring, and as I said it isn't an adjustment screw.

Without that screw, the revolver wouldn't fire.
 
Are you sure that this is a brand-new 686? The reason I ask is because the front sight is not the kind that comes with the non-ported model, and the gun is bead blasted instead of S&W's factory polished finish. I've also never seen a factory 686 with an overtravel screw in the trigger.
 
Are you sure that this is a brand-new 686? The reason I ask is because the front sight is not the kind that comes with the non-ported model, and the gun is bead blasted instead of S&W's factory polished finish. I've also never seen a factory 686 with an overtravel screw in the trigger.

Read post #1 and #19.

The sight, bead blasting and overtravel screw were installed by Charlton.
 
I need to ask if it is not an adjustment why is there a screw there.:confused:

I have also heard it is an adjustment. I own own a few smiths, I want to know.

if it was not set up as a screw through the grip frame, how would you install the mainspring?
 
"...all new firearms require a trigger job..." They do. Frivolous U.S. law suits have frightened the manufacturers. Even though they make and sell quality products, defending against a frivolous law suit still costs money. As a result, plus the cost of making a good trigger(it's not something that a machine can do) factory triggers are heavy and creepy.
A good trigger is essential for accurate shooting. That's why there is a whole aftermarket industry making triggers and selling springs etc. You can have the best ammo made, but if the trigger isn't right it won't matter.
 
It's not install the mainspring, it's tension the mainspring.


I know.

What I was getting at, was that the reason it is configured as a screw through the grip frame was not to be adjustable, but because there would be no way to install the mainspring otherwise.
 
You can install the mainspring without the screw but it would fall out, and if it didn't, you would get little to no hammer action when you pulled the trigger.
 
She's all done.

So after some various types of factory ammo I have found that the Remington UMC 125gr JSP is the cheapest, most easily available and, most importantly, best functioning ammo for me. After a little messing with the tension, I still get a really light break in SA and DA is incredibly smooth, and it's still dead reliable with this ammo. I'm a very happy camper.

All of the leather I ordered for it has since arrived, I got a Bianchi Cyclone and some Bianchi Slim Agent speedloader pouches for it and they both work great.

And most exciting of all, my grips showed up! I ordered them from Hogue when I first got the gun way back when and they showed up yesterday! They are the round butt conversion w/ finger grooves in rosewood. Behold!

NewGripFull.jpg


backstrap.jpg


cool.gif
 
"...all new firearms require a trigger job..." They do. Frivolous U.S. law suits have frightened the manufacturers. Even though they make and sell quality products, defending against a frivolous law suit still costs money. As a result, plus the cost of making a good trigger(it's not something that a machine can do) factory triggers are heavy and creepy.
A good trigger is essential for accurate shooting. That's why there is a whole aftermarket industry making triggers and selling springs etc. You can have the best ammo made, but if the trigger isn't right it won't matter.

My 686-6 was perfect out of the box when I bought it 4 months ago. I have enough experience to know good from bad. As to your theories perhaps a heavier brand of tinfoil would be helpful.
 
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