Norinco 1911 9mm trigger jamming

Firehoser

Firehoser

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Hi all.
I have a Norinco 1911 govt model chambered in 9mm. I bought it to see if I would like the 1911 format. It ran flawlessly for the first 500 rounds. Now the trigger will jam occasionally and I mean jam. Zero play! I empty the firearm and rack to reset. I have quality Mec Gar mags as well as the original POS mags. Like any bad auto mechanic I started replacing springs (all but the recoil spring) and even the trigger. Hmmmm could it be the recoil spring... LOL. Anyone had a similar experience?
Any suggestions to repair this problem would be appreciated.
 
Never had that issue but check the magazine where the trigger bow wraps around it. It could be binding on the magazine or between the mag and frame. All it takes is a shard of brass or schmutz in there to bugger things up. Also check your grip screws to make sure they aren't in too far and pushing the mag against the trigger bow.
 
Any weird marks on the magazines that would indicate binding of the trigger?

***handofzeus beat me to it.
 
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At what point does it jam? After a shot, after full mag, etc. Curious what the chain of events are up to the trigger locking up

Corey
 
Springs have nothing whatsoever to do with the trigger bow of a 1911 becoming wedged or jammed. Check some videos or diagrams from searches for "1911 trigger" to get a better feel for the features of the bow and where it fits in the gun.

The fact that it ran well at first and suddenly developed this issue suggests that some manner of dirt or a chip of something has gotten wedged in the trigger bow track or between the finger shoe and frame. And the first step towards figuring this out is a full detail strip of the gun. Again watch a few YT videos and follow the better one you find that you like.

Do the detail strip down over a nice clean dollar store dish towel. The light green or light tan ones are best since they don't show the stains like the white ones and don't hide the blued parts like the dark ones. They also stop things from bouncing and rolling. And best of all as you take the parts out any bits of this or that which are not supposed to be in the gun will become obvious when they fall out of their hiding spots.

Give it a good cleaning while it's all apart and reassemble with some oil for most things and a THIN smear of grease on the slide rails and along the centerline track of the slide where the hammer kicks around the heel and runs on the lower track when the slide is back. I also like a similar THIN smear of grease from an old toothbrush on the slide and barrel locking lugs and the nose of the barrel that rides in the barrel bushing.

I hope this helps get the gun back in operation. The 1911 platform is a very enjoyable gun for many of us. It is a shame that what will likely turn out to be a small issue is messing it up for you.
 
BCRider said:
Springs have nothing whatsoever to do with the trigger bow of a 1911 becoming wedged or jammed. Check some videos or diagrams from searches for "1911 trigger" to get a better feel for the features of the bow and where it fits in the gun.

The fact that it ran well at first and suddenly developed this issue suggests that some manner of dirt or a chip of something has gotten wedged in the trigger bow track or between the finger shoe and frame. And the first step towards figuring this out is a full detail strip of the gun. Again watch a few YT videos and follow the better one you find that you like.

Do the detail strip down over a nice clean dollar store dish towel. The light green or light tan ones are best since they don't show the stains like the white ones and don't hide the blued parts like the dark ones. They also stop things from bouncing and rolling. And best of all as you take the parts out any bits of this or that which are not supposed to be in the gun will become obvious when they fall out of their hiding spots.

Give it a good cleaning while it's all apart and reassemble with some oil for most things and a THIN smear of grease on the slide rails and along the centerline track of the slide where the hammer kicks around the heel and runs on the lower track when the slide is back. I also like a similar THIN smear of grease from an old toothbrush on the slide and barrel locking lugs and the nose of the barrel that rides in the barrel bushing.

I hope this helps get the gun back in operation. The 1911 platform is a very enjoyable gun for many of us. It is a shame that what will likely turn out to be a small issue is messing it up for you.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. I have stripped this and polished anything that looked remotely rough. I replaced the springs with a Wilson Combat kit and lubricated sparingly. I replaced the trigger as well. I am going to check to make sure the slide is coming all the way forward. If not then the recoil spring could be the culprit. I have no idea what a 9mm Norinco 1911 recoil spring should be in pounds.
 
I guess I don't understand the problem then, recoil spring will have nothing to do with a jammed trigger.
The trigger itself is jammed in the frame, or the gun will not fire.?
If the trigger itself is jammed, take the grips off, take the mag out , does that help, if you replaced the trigger, and that did not help,than I am not sure, is the sear , finger spring O.K.?
I think the spring is 11-13 lbs, but would have to look.
Is the disconnector O.K.?
 
I do remember the grip saftey on my Norinco 45 being loose. You could shake the gun and hear it clacking back and forth. Maybe have a look at that if it's not functioning properly it would keep the trigger from moving . Or is the thumb saftey loose and moving into a spot that limits the trigger also?

Thinking out loud.
Corey
 
Even though 1911 parts can usually be dropped in.
Many of the parts must be fitted properly to the pistol.
Only smoothing of bearing surfaces with stones and crocus cloth (sometimes on some surfaces, VERY carefully using a Dremel with Cratex fine abrasive rubber tips) without changing edges or profiles or dimension, of any parts.
Polishing usually means some removal of netal.
That leads to undersized parts and tolerance stackup. And loss of function.

The recoil spring has nothing to do with the trigger.
The three fingered sear spring can be installed incorectly and block sear and trigger.

Working on your own 1911 is a great thing, understanding how it works before you dive in is priceless.
There are excellent 1911 manuals out there.
I use this one.

The Colt .45 Automatic - A Shop Manual(Volume I in the Kuhnhausen .45 auto series)

Does the trigger you installed have an overtravel screw ?

Firehoser said:
Thanks for the response. I have stripped this and polished anything that looked remotely rough. I replaced the springs with a Wilson Combat kit and lubricated sparingly. I replaced the trigger as well. I am going to check to make sure the slide is coming all the way forward. If not then the recoil spring could be the culprit. I have no idea what a 9mm Norinco 1911 recoil spring should be in pounds.
Click to expand...
 
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