.22LR bullet trap thoughts? Not 100% sure where to ask this.

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commandac

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So, since there are many threads in this rimfire section, figured I would try here.

I am looking at building two bullet traps for .22LR rounds. (Specificially CCI subsonics, and standard bulk 1200 fps rounds, and 1,300 fps minimags)

Requirements.
1. NOT have lead in my yard. So, must actually TRAP the bullet.
2. If it ricochet's, its likely hitting my house. (I am willing to take a certain amount of risk)
3. Low amount of maintenance. Rain, etc. (Phone books only last so long)

Original thoughts...
From the research I have done, 3/4 plywood is pretty much guaranteed to be penetrated by most .22lr rounds.
This is good, because it's less chances of ricochet.
A second sheet of plywood CAN be penetrated depending on velocity and weight.
Therefore, what are the thoughts of a 4" thick rigid insulation (Hard Styrofoam) with 3/4" plywood on each side.
I am thinking of making a wooden frame with 2x4 boards, plywood on both sides, then "dropping" the Styrofoam sheet (2' by 4', 4 inches thick) into the spacing between the plywood sheets.

Then once a year or so, I can simply pull out and replace the rigid Styrofoam and it should catch the majority of the lead for disposal.

I have leftover Styrofoam sheets from a recent construction.

I just don't know if 90% of the lead bullets would end up stuck in the back plywood, and not in the Styrofoam.

Should I consider glueing plywood to the Styrofoam "filter cartridge" and dropping that inside of the plywood box? (I'd probably have to use 2x6 for framing to give enough space)

Thoughts / experiences?
 
commandac said:
So, since there are many threads in this rimfire section, figured I would try here.

I am looking at building two bullet traps for .22LR rounds. (Specificially CCI subsonics, and standard bulk 1200 fps rounds, and 1,300 fps minimags)

Requirements.
1. NOT have lead in my yard. So, must actually TRAP the bullet.
2. If it ricochet's, its likely hitting my house. (I am willing to take a certain amount of risk)
3. Low amount of maintenance. Rain, etc. (Phone books only last so long)

Original thoughts...
From the research I have done, 3/4 plywood is pretty much guaranteed to be penetrated by most .22lr rounds.
This is good, because it's less chances of ricochet.
A second sheet of plywood CAN be penetrated depending on velocity and weight.
Therefore, what are the thoughts of a 4" thick rigid insulation (Hard Styrofoam) with 3/4" plywood on each side.
I am thinking of making a wooden frame with 2x4 boards, plywood on both sides, then "dropping" the Styrofoam sheet (2' by 4', 4 inches thick) into the spacing between the plywood sheets.

Then once a year or so, I can simply pull out and replace the rigid Styrofoam and it should catch the majority of the lead for disposal.

I have leftover Styrofoam sheets from a recent construction.

I just don't know if 90% of the lead bullets would end up stuck in the back plywood, and not in the Styrofoam.

Should I consider glueing plywood to the Styrofoam "filter cartridge" and dropping that inside of the plywood box? (I'd probably have to use 2x6 for framing to give enough space)

Thoughts / experiences?
Click to expand...

Do you have any sketches to share?

Bullet penetration resistance involves many variables. I imagine one of the biggest is the angle at which the bullet makes contact with anything it's shot at.
 
People shoot steel plates all the time and the only concern is the bullet "splash". Perhaps a steel plate angled down to redirect splash with a built up containment box for the lead splash and a small amount of sand or water under the plate to catch the majority of the lead. I regularly shoot a small soft-steel plate 3/8" thick without any deformation with a .22 but on the range am not concerned with the splash. Targets could be hung in front of the box so personal entry into the trap would not be required.
Have you looked into the noise bylaws in your area? What if you miss the bullet trap, what could be hit? These questions would be of more concern.
 
My advice would be to build something with 2 layers of replaceable foam in front of at least 12" of sand. Sand is probably the best reusable bullet catch in the world.

2. If it ricochet's, its likely hitting my house. (I am willing to take a certain amount of risk)
Click to expand...

This scares me. Bullets can be shot and not fly on their projected trajectory (flyers), you can have a negligent or accidental discharge or just simply be tired and miss your target. Just go to any indoor range and you find impact marks on the floor, walls and ceilings. You must know your target and whats beyond. If you do not have the room to safely deal with any potential ricochets then you do not have to room to be shooting at that location.
 
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That is basically what I am thinking.
Except the middle rigid Styrofoam would be removable/replaceable , and hopefully contain most of the lead.
In order to have the Styrofoam middle layer removable, I simply make a frame out of 2x4 or 2x6 boards, and have the plywood layers screwed into the boards, and not into the Styrofoam.

The Styrofoam essential becomes a replaceable filter / cartridge.

I am just wondering if the Styrofoam will actually catch the bullets, or will it simply slow it down and have the bullets lodged in the second (rear) plywood layer.

if that's the case, I might need to add a third layer of plywood, one that is glued directly to the Styrofoam "filter/cartridge" and drop it between the two layers of plywood mentioned before.

The shots would always be direct hits to the target, give or take 5 degrees. (Shooting from the porch)

I shot at steel targets before. As much as I enjoy the sound of hitting steel, the ricochet is 100% random.
As for the idea of a 45 degree backdrop, I thought about that as well, in fact, I think it is standard design.
Basically a hockey net, with the rear net at 45 degrees deflecting bullets downwards. (And made of steel)

I am just not sure how well I would be able to replace the sand and remove the majority of lead under the bullet trap unless I make it a permanent thing.
Maybe use a type of window screen under the sand, then filter the sand, and save / recycle the lead for slugs or my 45.
 
I’d be looking to build an angled metal trap. That’s the only solution that will be low maintenance. Also a metal trap will collect the bullets for easy removal.

It would require some welding and heavy sheet metal but isn’t going to make the huge mess a plywood or foam trap is going to make.
 
Champion makes a steel .22 rimfire bullet trap, costs around $100. I think you can add sand in the bottom to reduce the chance of splash. If you are confident you can reliably keep your shots within a 12"x12" area it might be the ticket.
 
That makes sense...
I have leftover tin roofing that might do the trick as well.

As for small bullet traps, once sighted, I could use those. But for my kids, I prefer something in the 48" by 48" size. lol.
 
tin roofing will not do the trick. 22lr is small but has a fair bit of penetration to it. i have 2, 1 inch pieces of ply wood at the back of my house ( with 600 acres of cattle field in behind ) and my 22 goes right through. get a piece of metal plate, build a hanger ( 2x4's would work ) 2 pieces of chain, drill 2 holes in the steel and hang it from the wooden frame.. you can even build a second hanger in front and hang a small piece of plywood off of it to use to staple your targets to.


Edit: and as stated above, use a bucket of sand beneath to capture the bullets. what you have for a back stop could be used on the sides to contain ricochets but very unlikely to stop any rounds.
 
Great information! And gave me a good idea. I was thinking foam between plywood layers to prevent ricochets...
But if I put a steel plate at the back instead of plywood, and make the bottom of the wood frame to be shaped like a funnel, I can collect most lead in a bucket.
At least the lead that doesn't get stuck in the Styrofoam anyways. Still have the plywood at the front to staple the targets to.

I think I have my plan. Thanks everyone!
 
Are you planning on re-claiming the lead for boolits?
Sounds like you have a plan, I'd go more in the direction of a sand pile contained on 3 sides by concrete block walls.
 
I made a trap out of 1/4” plate. Flat top and bottom with sides on a 45 degree angle toward back. I cut a slot in a piece of 2.5” tubing and the back of the trap fits into the tubing. The bullet hits the sides,travels to the back into the tubing ,spins around and drops into a coffee can.
It is 22” wide x 18” tall. 1/4” plate for the sides and top.
 
I’d use the Champion bullet trap with a larger bullet stop behind it. The plywood idea will work if it’s not being used as the primary stop.

If your shooting tight groups you end up with big holes through the plywood anyways.
 
I built one for my backyard in order to save my trees from sustaining damage. I built it as a box about 30” x30x 5”. It’s a layer of 1/2” plywood, then a layer of heavy duty mud-flap (the thick stuff for a big rig), then 3” of sand, a layer of 14 gauge sheet metal, and finally the backside is 1/2” plywood. I’ve put over 1000 rounds into it at ranges from 20-50 yards and I’ve yet to see a bullet make it through the sand to the sheet metal.

The reason for the mudflap behind the plywood is that it’s self- healing and will contain the sand long after the plywood is full of holes. I built it with easy replacement of the plywood in mind- simply remove a few screws and it slides up and out and a new piece slides in its place.

I’ll post some pics later.
 
coleman1495 said:
I’d be looking to build an angled metal trap. That’s the only solution that will be low maintenance. Also a metal trap will collect the bullets for easy removal.

It would require some welding and heavy sheet metal but isn’t going to make the huge mess a plywood or foam trap is going to make.
Click to expand...

coyoteking said:
I built one for my backyard in order to save my trees from sustaining damage. I built it as a box about 30” x30x 5”. It’s a layer of 1/2” plywood, then a layer of heavy duty mud-flap (the thick stuff for a big rig), then 3” of sand, a layer of 14 gauge sheet metal, and finally the backside is 1/2” plywood. I’ve put over 1000 rounds into it at ranges from 20-50 yards and I’ve yet to see a bullet make it through the sand to the sheet metal.

The reason for the mudflap behind the plywood is that it’s self- healing and will contain the sand long after the plywood is full of holes. I built it with easy replacement of the plywood in mind- simply remove a few screws and it slides up and out and a new piece slides in its place.

I’ll post some pics later.
Click to expand...

^OP~these are probably the best options I've read in this thread. I think the plywood/styrofoam business would be better-suited to air rifles...not 22s. A good part of my early years shooting rimfires involved a fascination with what it can, and can't do at various ranges. This included allot of homemade targets, as I worked full time in a metal shop hands-on. On our big shear, I'd cut plates of mild steel (CRS) in 14ga..and set them up at my farm range (90 yards). Shooting standard vel. ammo only (CCI LR/HP or Federal Gold Medal Target) I absolutely destroyed them in no time. So, 90 yards...slower ammo than you might be using, tougher materials than plywood and styrofoam=ZERO longevity. I've also bought various (cheap) steel targets like the gopher pop-up ones made from heavier plate, and even with SV ammo, they deform quickly. (not my post/thread, but see comment #9 in this thread~it's the same one; https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1881523-Gophers )

22LR, even standard velocity, has allot more energy/penetration than allot of people realize..and even if you stacked mulitple layers of plywood...22LR rounds will tear through it, trust me. You have to involve steel. I don't believe it needs to be AR500, but 1/8" plate at an angle should last...thicker would last longer. I'd be looking at the geometry of that small trap, and use that as a guideline. I think if you can involved more depth, and guarantee that the bullets at least make initial contact with steel..you're off to a good start.
 
Going by your Alias, I will have to agree :)
I will be definitely have to include steel.
The input I got in this thread saved me from not doing it right the first time.

Also, yeah, the idea is to reclaim the lead.
A buddy casts .375 from lead. However, mostly, it's to prevent lead from ending up in the ground where the deer eat, kids play, kids pick strawberries, etc.
Who knows, maybe I will cast .45 for my Norinco 1911.
I am also a few feet from a lake, and I am just trying to do my part to leave something clean to my kids and grand kids.
I would be interested in a larger version of that champion trap. I am somewhat reluctant on a round coming back at me though.
My son has just started shooting .22LR at 7 years old, and daughter is 15. Hence larger trap is needed. They aren't at the "aim small, miss small" coaching yet.
All together about 300 yards to the neighbors separated by 100 of field, bullet trap, 100-150 of dense forest, and additional 100 yards of field. My subsonic loads would have ~40" of drop by then.
As long as the target is not high off the ground, there's no way a round is making it to the neighbors.

I believe I have some of those big rig mudflaps!!! Grand dad had two 10 wheelers. I forgot about them self healing! Definitely a good idea to hang the targets to.
Especially since if they are just "hung", any ricochets would likely just bounce off of it (on the return path) since it is not fixed.
Can you guarantee that 100% of the rounds make it THROUGH it though? Personally, I believe every round would.
As long as the rear of the trap is steel, I should be fine.




.22LRGUY said:
^OP~these are probably the best options I've read in this thread. I think the plywood/styrofoam business would be better-suited to air rifles...not 22s. A good part of my early years shooting rimfires involved a fascination with what it can, and can't do at various ranges. This included allot of homemade targets, as I worked full time in a metal shop hands-on. On our big shear, I'd cut plates of mild steel (CRS) in 14ga..and set them up at my farm range (90 yards). Shooting standard vel. ammo only (CCI LR/HP or Federal Gold Medal Target) I absolutely destroyed them in no time. So, 90 yards...slower ammo than you might be using, tougher materials than plywood and styrofoam=ZERO longevity. I've also bought various (cheap) steel targets like the gopher pop-up ones made from heavier plate, and even with SV ammo, they deform quickly. (not my post/thread, but see comment #9 in this thread~it's the same one; https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1881523-Gophers )

22LR, even standard velocity, has allot more energy/penetration than allot of people realize..and even if you stacked mulitple layers of plywood...22LR rounds will tear through it, trust me. You have to involve steel. I don't believe it needs to be AR500, but 1/8" plate at an angle should last...thicker would last longer. I'd be looking at the geometry of that small trap, and use that as a guideline. I think if you can involved more depth, and guarantee that the bullets at least make initial contact with steel..you're off to a good start.
Click to expand...
 
I bought a 22. champion bullet trap on clearance for 56$. Now I never tested it with 22LR, only pellets. I do get pellets bouncing out when shooting under 5m. But shouldn't at 10-20M. But they say 25M is min for these traps.

From my testings, with airguns and various traps. A full metal trap, is the only one with low maintenance. Duct seal, has to be cleaned once in awhile. Rubber mulch, having to replace the backing that holds the mulch in often.
 
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