Broken buffer

Kinthelt

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Location
Manitoba
I took my SLR out into the bush for a bit of plinking, when I noticed a rattle in the buttstock. Didn't shoot it. Brought it home and took it apart to notice that the buffer bumper was off and the weights were rattling around in the buffer tube. The aluminum on the buffer was flared at the end, which is why the bumper came off.

My questions are: What caused this and how do I solve it?

I suspect the buffer is being forced into the buffer tube a bit too forcefully, and it stretched the aluminum out. Would a heavier buffer be the solution? As far as I can tell, there is only one "standard" spring to use, but a whole bunch of different buffers. I was using a standard carbine which I understand is the lightest out there. I'm thinking an H2 weight might work?

I'm running a mid-length gas tube on an 18.6" barrel if that makes a difference.
 
would it be possible to have pics of the buffer out of the tube, as well as in the tube to see what was exposed?

im guessing though you are right, a mid length gas system on a 18.5 is a bit over gassed, whereas a rifle length would be better but some would argue under gassed, there are custom length gas systems out there of oddball length but require the barrel to have the appropriate shelf and port location. i would say a heavier buffer would be your best solution
 
There should be a roll pin or something holding the rear portion of the buffer on, sounds more like the buffer was missing the pin or it broke...

You shouldn't need a heavier buffer on a mid length system, a regular carbine buffer should do it.

thumbnail.asp
 
iAfQ9ps.jpg


I can't give a pic of the buffer in the tube. Basically because when I poked at the retention pin, it flew out of the receiver and across the room. Completely lost. I need to get a new one. There's a reason for that though: I had to take the buffer tube off to get at the buffer originally. Couldn't break down the SLR the normal way because the bolt was stuck back.
 
iAfQ9ps.jpg


I can't give a pic of the buffer in the tube. Basically because when I poked at the retention pin, it flew out of the receiver and across the room. Completely lost. I need to get a new one. There's a reason for that though: I had to take the buffer tube off to get at the buffer originally. Couldn't break down the SLR the normal way because the bolt was stuck back.

That's shouldn't happen plain and simple. Nothing contacts the roll pin that holds it together. My guess would be that the roll pin walked out from recoil. What brand of buffer is this?
 
There is no roll pin to keep the buffer retention pin in. It's held in by the buffer tube. Like I said, I removed the buffer tube, so that's why it went "sproing"!

As for the buffer itself, it's a True North Arms.
 
There is no roll pin to keep the buffer retention pin in. It's held in by the buffer tube. Like I said, I removed the buffer tube, so that's why it went "sproing"!

As for the buffer itself, it's a True North Arms.

Sorry I mis read your post. The buffer should have a pin to keep everything held together. Saying that you bought a very cheap buffer. Call it a lesson learned and spend a little more on a quality unit. Not all parts are created equal.
 
Last edited:
would it be possible to have pics of the buffer out of the tube, as well as in the tube to see what was exposed?

im guessing though you are right, a mid length gas system on a 18.5 is a bit over gassed, whereas a rifle length would be better but some would argue under gassed, there are custom length gas systems out there of oddball length but require the barrel to have the appropriate shelf and port location. i would say a heavier buffer would be your best solution

Being mid length has nothing to do with it being overgassed, that is a function of the size of the port drilled in the barrel, I have an 18.6 with a mid length and it runs fine. If his gas port was drilled too large he'll need an adjustable gas block to tame it down.

Kinthelt, go buy a quality buffer, that one with a plastic end plug threaded in is not how they're supposed to be built, you can see the white plastic end plug has the threads messed up. It should have a polymer bumper held in by a roll pin like the pic F22 posted. That's how all mine are.

Your picture has made me realize that I should check the buffer in my Modern Sported, the guy I bought it from bought some of the parts from TNA. Budget parts aren't always worth the price you save, this is proof of that.
 
Yeah, there's your problem right there :eek:

garbage buffer, get a good daniel defense or something... anything other than that.... Threaded plastic into the tube is a recipe for breaking. Not to mention the plastic they are using isn't going to really "buffer" anything if it impacts the extension it's going to crack.

The rear part is supposed to be a more rubberized material so that it actually... buffers... the impact.
 
Yeah, there's your problem right there :eek:

garbage buffer, get a good daniel defense or something... anything other than that.... Threaded plastic into the tube is a recipe for breaking. Not to mention the plastic they are using isn't going to really "buffer" anything if it impacts the extension it's going to crack.

The rear part is supposed to be a more rubberized material so that it actually... buffers... the impact.

Funny you say that. I had *just* bought a replacement DD buffer from Wolverine when you posted this.
 
What cheap Chinese sh!t parts are you using? Christ! What sweat shop was that made in.
 
Last edited:
I just had the same thing happen yesterday. So I’m getting a heavy buffer to replace it. No pin in mine.View attachment 292672

A buffer is a critical part in the rifles operation. Buying a 10$ buffer to save 80$ is a lesson learned. Toss that sucker in the trash and buy a real one. Now is also a good time to look at the rest of the parts used in your build and ask yourself if you should upgrade anything before any potential damage might occur.
 
A buffer is a critical part in the rifles operation. Buying a 10$ buffer to save 80$ is a lesson learned. Toss that sucker in the trash and buy a real one. Now is also a good time to look at the rest of the parts used in your build and ask yourself if you should upgrade anything before any potential damage might occur.

Thought buying from a site sponsor was a good idea.
 
Thought buying from a site sponsor was a good idea.

It is but, various levels of quality are available and going with one of the cheapest no-name options(with any product) usually lowers reliability and increases the chance of issues. Several site sponsors offer quality options(there are some examples above).
 
Back
Top Bottom