Material for our Mauser Extractor
- Thread starter Green grass
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Best I could find was a reference (by Darcy Echols) that they used to be made from "spring steel" - in a posting where he shows a "modern" one from a new Winchester 70 that he bent at right angles with his fingers to demonstrate they are not want he wants to work with.
I don't think you can "heat treat" low carbon steel - it is the rearranging the carbon atoms with the iron atoms that creates the hardness and/or spring. And you did actually write "lower carbon steel" as in lower than tool steel, I presume.
Might want to first confirm what kind of 1896 or 1898 mauser the 1600's match up to - until recently, TradeEx had replacement Husqvarna M38 extractors that might have been identical. Maybe there are other mauser milsurp extractors that would work? - seem to be in the $15 to $20 range. Would have to compare, say, an 1894 or 1896 Swede to the 1600 to know for sure - I have the Swede's here, but I only have one 1640 and do not have a 1600 - don't know if a 1640 is same as a 1600.
I don't think you can "heat treat" low carbon steel - it is the rearranging the carbon atoms with the iron atoms that creates the hardness and/or spring. And you did actually write "lower carbon steel" as in lower than tool steel, I presume.
Might want to first confirm what kind of 1896 or 1898 mauser the 1600's match up to - until recently, TradeEx had replacement Husqvarna M38 extractors that might have been identical. Maybe there are other mauser milsurp extractors that would work? - seem to be in the $15 to $20 range. Would have to compare, say, an 1894 or 1896 Swede to the 1600 to know for sure - I have the Swede's here, but I only have one 1640 and do not have a 1600 - don't know if a 1640 is same as a 1600.
Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
This.
Machining a Mauser extractor would be a nightmare. Just buy one and be done with it.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Just googled "extractor for Husqvarna 1600" and found this comment on a GunBoards thread:
"Took a while for me to get around to updating this thread, but the good news is that Mr. Robert Borgstrom in Sweden got back to me several months ago. He told me that a Model 94/96/38 extractor could be fitted to the 1600. It is not an exact replacement, but certainly works.
Got a brand new extractor from Tradex, and it slid right onto the 1600 collar without a hitch. Not quite all the way over the collar, but the raceway in the bolt body keeps it from sliding off once the extractor lug is in the race. The bolt would not close with the new extractor, as Borgstrom had said would be the case. Bolt handle was about 40 degrees shy of closing.
Needed about an hour using Prussian Blue marker and fine stones to thin the front of the extractor hook. Removed less than six thousandths off the face of the extractor hook to get the bolt to close, and then polished it.
Thanks, Mr. Borgstrom, it feeds, extracts, and ejects perfectly."
A later comment in the thread mentions that sometimes it has been found that the fit to the extractor collar on a 1600 can be too loose and a 94/96/38 extractor has been known to slip off. Both comments by very knowledgeable folk who also frequent this site.
"Took a while for me to get around to updating this thread, but the good news is that Mr. Robert Borgstrom in Sweden got back to me several months ago. He told me that a Model 94/96/38 extractor could be fitted to the 1600. It is not an exact replacement, but certainly works.
Got a brand new extractor from Tradex, and it slid right onto the 1600 collar without a hitch. Not quite all the way over the collar, but the raceway in the bolt body keeps it from sliding off once the extractor lug is in the race. The bolt would not close with the new extractor, as Borgstrom had said would be the case. Bolt handle was about 40 degrees shy of closing.
Needed about an hour using Prussian Blue marker and fine stones to thin the front of the extractor hook. Removed less than six thousandths off the face of the extractor hook to get the bolt to close, and then polished it.
Thanks, Mr. Borgstrom, it feeds, extracts, and ejects perfectly."
A later comment in the thread mentions that sometimes it has been found that the fit to the extractor collar on a 1600 can be too loose and a 94/96/38 extractor has been known to slip off. Both comments by very knowledgeable folk who also frequent this site.
Case hardening, is still a form of heat treating. So is Cryro treatment, freezing the parts in liquid nitrogen or similar extreme cold temperatures. It might cause an epiphany to understand that any process that involves a change to your material, by using a change in temperature, is a heat treating process.Hardening, tempering, normalizing, quenching, freezing, all "Heat treating".
Mild steel does not harden by simply heating it up and quenching it. Not without some pretty extreme chemistry in the quench, anyways. Mostly surfracants, to keep the steam bubbles formed, from insulating the steel from the quench.
