AR15 --- fired 5.56 round stuck in chamber
- Thread starter pummumu
- Start date
thanks everyone for the help, I really appreciate them!
To be sure, I will do another pass of cleaning job of the chamber and barrel before the next trip and try a few rounds of 5.56 again.
If that is causing the problem still, I will have no choice but to keep running .223 on this rifle
Here are the photos between the .223 and the 5.56 from the rifle:
To be sure, I will do another pass of cleaning job of the chamber and barrel before the next trip and try a few rounds of 5.56 again.
If that is causing the problem still, I will have no choice but to keep running .223 on this rifle
Here are the photos between the .223 and the 5.56 from the rifle:
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Sounds like over gassing issue with too big of a gas port.
Few things to try:
H2 buffer should be sufficient, but try a H3 to see.
Extra power buffer spring if needed.
Check extractor, is it damaged? Enough tension?
Use Crane o ring, and extra power extractor spring.
Few things to try:
H2 buffer should be sufficient, but try a H3 to see.
Extra power buffer spring if needed.
Check extractor, is it damaged? Enough tension?
Use Crane o ring, and extra power extractor spring.
Was the very first round after putting it together, something from the manufacture caused enough friction the case didn't move. I only barrel brushed it before shooting, didn't chamber brush it. After cleaning the chamber till patches had no black it hasn't happened again, no matter how dirty it got.
Cameron SS
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ground Zero
Ammo is not your problem. Therefore ammo is not your solution. Any in tolerance mil spec ar should be anle to shoot the worst ammo on the market.
Your extractor is damaging your rims because the force driving the bolt rearwards is being resisted by excessive friction of the case in the chamber and the case is the weak link in the system.
Remember that the case expands and sticks to the chamber after ignition and then quickly cools, shrinks and unsticks.
A properly gassed rifle will see a sufficient delay between that shrinking and rearward travel of the bolt. Since your rifle is attempting to extract a stuck case you need to increase this delay. Changing the buffer weight will have a marginal effect. Increasing buffer spring tension may help, bultimately if the issue is too much gas, a common problem on short barrels, the best solution is less gas. If an adjustable gas block is out of the question, then the red/green show $0.10 solution is to put a slight crimp in your gas tube. Buy some spare gas tubes as this is a pretty poor solution that may need some trial and error, but it could work.
Your extractor is damaging your rims because the force driving the bolt rearwards is being resisted by excessive friction of the case in the chamber and the case is the weak link in the system.
Remember that the case expands and sticks to the chamber after ignition and then quickly cools, shrinks and unsticks.
A properly gassed rifle will see a sufficient delay between that shrinking and rearward travel of the bolt. Since your rifle is attempting to extract a stuck case you need to increase this delay. Changing the buffer weight will have a marginal effect. Increasing buffer spring tension may help, bultimately if the issue is too much gas, a common problem on short barrels, the best solution is less gas. If an adjustable gas block is out of the question, then the red/green show $0.10 solution is to put a slight crimp in your gas tube. Buy some spare gas tubes as this is a pretty poor solution that may need some trial and error, but it could work.
Why isn't sending the barrel back to the retailer/manufacturer an option?
I would send the barrel back for inspection after talking to them about the issues you're having.
If the chamber is out of spec they should either fix it if possible or replace the barrel.
You bought a new barrel, it should be made and finished correctly.
You should also be able to look up the specs for a 10-12 inch AR barrel gas port and find out pretty easily if it's got too much gas.
What brand is your BCG?
I would send the barrel back for inspection after talking to them about the issues you're having.
If the chamber is out of spec they should either fix it if possible or replace the barrel.
You bought a new barrel, it should be made and finished correctly.
You should also be able to look up the specs for a 10-12 inch AR barrel gas port and find out pretty easily if it's got too much gas.
What brand is your BCG?
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The BCG brand is Ergo's. I bought it brand new as well.
Im trying to figure out if the barrel is the actual issue before sending/ notifying the store.
I also did have the receivers cerakoted(that i forgot to mention)and found a lot of dust particle in the barrel. My guess is the dust from the shop got everywhere.
I did a cleaning pass as soon as I got the rifle back, so maybe I didnt clean it properly.
Another one I forgot to mention, after I finished assembling the rifle for the first time( before sending it to cerakote), I did a range trip, and it ate all the ammo I fed( I have mixed .223 and 5.56 in my ammo case as all my other ARs have 5.56 barrel.)
During that range trip ( pre cerakote,) it mushroomed my Carbine weight bufffer. But no chamber stuck.
Cameron SS
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ground Zero
Did you notice any rough edges or tooling marks in the chamber? A dull or damaged reemer can leave a chamber with deep goucmges that increase the chamber friction making extraction more difficult. Polishing the chamber should help this significantly.
Cameron SS
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ground Zero
Definitely sounds over gassed, and a tight/dirty chamber from the cerakote. Basically same problem I had with my last AR build, except I also had a weak extractor so rather than ripping the rims off the extractor just let go and left the case in the chamber.
Clean and polish that chamber, sort out the gas and you should be fine.
Since it was working fine before coating it sounds like you may have some overspray in the chamber. Cerekote is a very hard and durable coating, a simple cleaning with a brush and solvent won't remove it.
The mushroomed buffer is typical of TNA buffers (I wouldn't use them) but is also showing that it's cycling pretty hard.
Considering this new information I would remove the barrel so you can get a really good look at it and then clean it really well and make sure there is nothing but clean shiny metal when you're done.
I hope that solves your problems.
Rule #1 of troubleshooting, it's probably the last thing you did to the rifle before it quit working. This is why I always suggest making one modification at a time when possible.
Good luck
Sorry for reviving old threat.
Just to give update , the problem is fixed.
I ended up using an H3 buffer, and stripped the barrel and really REALLY clean the chamber.
It runs flawlessly, but it still spits the brass around 2 o 'clock ( overgassed.)
The brass seems undamaged however, so I will leave it as is.
thank you all , again, for the input!
cheers,
H
Just to give update , the problem is fixed.
I ended up using an H3 buffer, and stripped the barrel and really REALLY clean the chamber.
It runs flawlessly, but it still spits the brass around 2 o 'clock ( overgassed.)
The brass seems undamaged however, so I will leave it as is.
thank you all , again, for the input!
cheers,
H
Cameron SS
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ground Zero
There ya go. Glad to hear it all worked out.
Milofficer
CGN Regular
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
Did you confirm if you had the Extractor O-ring and / or the extra power extractor spring? Even if your rifle is running fine now, it's a mod that I make to all my ARs. It's a cheap and easy way to add reliability to the system, especially an overgassed AR in your config.
