Pattern 14 target rifle project

Noobie81

Noobie81

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Hey guys

Last year I purchased a Remington made P14 mk1* off of the EE, it is in gorgeous condition with intact volley sights in a Fatboy Eddystone stock. It was an RAF guard rifle judging by the brass disc in the butt. The only problem is the bore was completely shot out with really bad throat erosion, probably from cordite surplus rounds. The first two inches of the bore had no rifling and the remainder was barely there. As you can imagine it was not a great shooter. I purchased two matching Winchester P14 barreled actions with stripped bolts on the EE, both have great bores and one even had the matching sight. One is a low serial number mk1 and the other is later production mk1* (machined groove at rear of barrel and larger extractor) I decided to part out the Remington and build a target rifle and drop in the Winchester action and add an AJ Parker target sight and forward action sling swivel. Here is where I am at so far. I need a trigger, the Remington trigger that came off the gun is predictably very worn with lots of creep. Any chance anyone has a NOS factory trigger or has anyone tried the Timney? I don't want to modify that beautiful stock. I love my .303 target guns I have two Long Branch no.4s set up this way that shoot really well.
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If you can get the appropriate PH sights and a new barrel, it will be a tack driver. Plus, the set up I described was used as an alternative to a scope No4 T during WW2
 
You will have to do some stock inletting for any aftermarket trigger, so you can cross that off your list.
If you want a target front sight (globe type that takes Anschutz inserts) that doesn't require any mods, the Swiss Products clamp on K31 fits the barrel perfectly.
 
Gandertite, not to worry I am not going to modify the original parts in any way I simply parted out a rifle that was shot out but in good condition and dropped in a barreled action from another P14 with a good bore. R711 I have a target sight for it, an AJ Parker 3/53 which is very similar to the PH sight that you mentioned and does not require any mods to the rifle. I would love to get a new barrel, I know criterion makes them but is there anywhere in Canada that sells them? Thanks for the tip about the globe sight Hitzy I have been looking for a bolt on globe sight.
 
Noobie81 said:
Gandertite, not to worry I am not going to modify the original parts in any way I simply parted out a rifle that was shot out but in good condition and dropped in a barreled action from another P14 with a good bore. R711 I have a target sight for it, an AJ Parker 3/53 which is very similar to the PH sight that you mentioned and does not require any mods to the rifle. I would love to get a new barrel, I know criterion makes them but is there anywhere in Canada that sells them? Thanks for the tip about the globe sight Hitzy I have been looking for a bolt on globe sight.
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Member Diopter might be able to help you out with getting one. I use one and just drift the rear blade out so it's out of the way. Mounts up against the rear sight. I'll try and take a pic later for you so you can see how it looks.
 
A Z Tech seems to have a few Criterion P14 barrels in stock - Criterion itself is saying they're backordered and expected in May 2019...?
 
7ECA said:
A Z Tech seems to have a few Criterion P14 barrels in stock - Criterion itself is saying they're backordered and expected in May 2019...?
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They don't show up on their list of in stock articles.

They seem to be having lots of bumps happening along the road of life right now. Family issues don't help and their export permits out of the US being delayed only exacerbates their tribulations. Good luck to them, nice people.
 
Even though the trigger sear surface is worn, you could likely salvage it by stoning the surface smooth again, and polishing it. Just be careful not to change the existing angle on the sear surface. Since you're building a target rifle, choose the action that has the better barrel. If both are equally good, then use the Mk1 Barreled action (as long as it feeds and ejects properly) as the mk1's chamber supports the cartridge rim with more surface area than the chamber of a mk1* barrel.
 
I never thought of that regarding the mk1 having more rim support that will definitely influence my decision. What do I use to stone and polish the trigger surfaces? I already ordered a replacement from an m1917 on the EE that appears to be in much better condition. Maybe I can practice cleaning up the surfaces on the old worn one.
 
Sorry for the delay in responding, I use an India stone to remove the ridges on the surface, then polish with 600 grit on up to around 1200 grit wrapped around the stone for support. The trigger pull on these rifles is usually pretty good, it's a lot better when they're smooth.

Good luck, hope to read about some range results when you get around to it.
 
I have one, too.
It's a long way from finished. Maybe by next spring.
It has a somewhat shaggy bore, so I'll diamond lap it before trying for any serious shooting.
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I also have a P14 - a Remington - that I want to restore. Any tips on removing the front sight to install the forward band? That's the only roadblock I've run into.

Presumably whoever cut down the stock simply took a dremel to the original band.
 
maxman1 said:
I also have a P14 - a Remington - that I want to restore. Any tips on removing the front sight to install the forward band? That's the only roadblock I've run into.

Presumably whoever cut down the stock simply took a dremel to the original band.
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I have removed four of these in past two months (two on P14, two on M1917 - they are identical except for eagle heads on front of M1917). For three, it was a matter of tapping out the cross pin with correct size punch, then setting a block of oak against the rear of the front sight carrier, and then easy taps with a hammer on that oak block - came off no sweat, with the muzzle resting vertically on another oak block. Note the location of that sight spline, and don't be applying pressure on it! The fourth one spent a week standing muzzle down in a can of penetrating oil. Do not know how long it actually needed the soak, but it did start to move as above when I finally got back to it. You are facing potentially 100 years of corrosion - no one says you will overcome that in a couple hours. Take your time. NO metal on metal pounding, you will just mess up the metal finish or patina.
 
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