Bedding a Vanguard Synthetic stock , opinions

[Kelly Timoffee]

I will be bedding another stock for a Vanguard II, the factory synthetic/plastic one.

My question is, are folks bedding the area along the side of the action?(between the two red lines shown with red arrows)

Or

Just doing the recoil lug area and rear at the screw?

There is a lot of material required to do the sides and I don't think it would be to much benefit as well as the bedding compound not filling the sides properly and leaving voids and missing material.

I've done lots of remingtons and Vanguards with Boyds and other rifles but this one I am not much carry for.

How say you?

 

[bearhunter]

First off, in case you don't already know, I wash the area I want to coat on those stocks down with Acetone appx 12 hours or more before putting any bedding resin into the stock. This helps the resin to adhere well to the synthetic material of the stock IMHO.

I bed all synthetic stocks all around the recoil lug area and around the rear tang. I just leave the rest alone.

 

[Kelly Timoffee]

First off, in case you don't already know, I wash the area I want to coat on those stocks down with Acetone appx 12 hours or more before putting any bedding resin into the stock. This helps the resin to adhere well to the synthetic material of the stock IMHO.

I bed all synthetic stocks all around the recoil lug area and around the rear tang. I just leave the rest alone.

I clean with lacquer thinner and also use an adhesion promoter that we use in bodyshops for plastic repairs , surprising how well it does it’s job , oh and of course it is already roughed up and paint removed.

I didn’t check but I’ve got the studs/action screws with t handles for bedding 700 actions , didn’t look to see if the threads are the same , that would beat using the action screws.

 

[Mystic Precision]

If there are big gaps, I would fill them in. The point of bedding is to support the action and stop any wiggle from causing different barrel vibrations.

If you are going through the process, applying more goop along the side can't hurt... and will likely help. Doesn't have to be internet pretty... just support the metal bits.

Jerry

 

[guntech]

Actions are easily bent... I never use any screws or clamps to tighten the action into the bedding... I use headless screws to align the action and let the bedding compound cure with no induced stress... at the most a bit of rubber tubing lightly holding the action in the stock... but usually I wrap tape around the barrel, so when laying in the stock the barrelled action is in the center of the stock.

When the action is bedded stress free I don't believe there is any difference in accuracy over bedding only the front and rear of the action or bedding the whole action.

 

[Kelly Timoffee]

Actions are easily bent... I never use any screws or clamps to tighten the action into the bedding... I use headless screws to align the action and let the bedding compound cure with no induced stress... at the most a bit of rubber tubing lightly holding the action in the stock... but usually I wrap tape around the barrel, so when laying in the stock the barrelled action is in the center of the stock.

When the action is bedded stress free I don't believe there is any difference in accuracy over bedding only the front and rear of the action or bedding the whole action.

This is likely a cause of many over compressed actions while bedding , which I could likely be guilty of as well.

Bungie cords it is!

 

[Kelly Timoffee]

If there are big gaps, I would fill them in. The point of bedding is to support the action and stop any wiggle from causing different barrel vibrations.

If you are going through the process, applying more goop along the side can't hurt... and will likely help. Doesn't have to be internet pretty... just support the metal bits.

Jerry

With these Vanguards a guy probably should do it in two stages maybe, fill the big voids first, then do the fine areas second?

 

[sean69]

Actions are easily bent... I never use any screws or clamps to tighten the action into the bedding...

Good point!

Bungie cords it is!

I use bicycle inner tubes cut into strips (whenever I have to clamp anything weird) .... they work great & are quite disposable.

With these Vanguards a guy probably should do it in two stages maybe, fill the big voids first, then do the fine areas second

Sounds like a reasonable plan. Also - you can bulk up your compound with silica or microfibres.

 

[Dosing]

You could throw in some pillars as well. All my Howa Vanguards have pillars, the hogue stocks come with them, I have had them added to custom stocks. Just an easier way to prevent over tightening. I find the vanguard factory stocks a bit odd, the ergonomics of the weatherby nes are nice, but he forends and barrel channels are so thin it isnt funny, and the action inletting is quite simplistic and plain, while the hogue stocks look less appealing to me, but have a nice barrel channel, which can easily be opened up as well, and come with pillars.

 

[Kelly Timoffee]

You could throw in some pillars as well. All my Howa Vanguards have pillars, the hogue stocks come with them, I have had them added to custom stocks. Just an easier way to prevent over tightening. I find the vanguard factory stocks a bit odd, the ergonomics of the weatherby nes are nice, but he forends and barrel channels are so thin it isnt funny, and the action inletting is quite simplistic and plain, while the hogue stocks look less appealing to me, but have a nice barrel channel, which can easily be opened up as well, and come with pillars.

I think I have one set left.

Crappy thing is the compound I used to use for bedding is now crazy expensive but it worked so well.Had a walnut media in it that wouldn't allow it to be worked out of tight spaces.

I have an acraglass kit enroute though.

 

[remington jim]

Kelly whats the NEW project ? Cartridge ?

Devcon 10110 or Acraglass - Bed the Recoil Lug area and about 1 " forward into the barrel channel to support and bed rear tang - Pillars are not needed - BUT OK to use - extra work to install them ! Use surgical tubing to wrap it up with - jmo RJ

 

[bearhunter]

I clean with lacquer thinner and also use an adhesion promoter that we use in bodyshops for plastic repairs , surprising how well it does it’s job , oh and of course it is already roughed up and paint removed.

I didn’t check but I’ve got the studs/action screws with t handles for bedding 700 actions , didn’t look to see if the threads are the same , that would beat using the action screws.

guntechs method for initial bedding is the way to go. The original action screws can be used as guides IF THEY AREN'T tightened down.

I don't know about the adhesion promoter but it would make sense that bodyshops would have something to do the trick. Do you mind giving us a brand name??

I only use the acetone because it softens the plastic enough to drill a few small holes on a slight angle onto the surfaces to be bedded. or makes it easier to rough up. I don't like roughing the area with anything but coarse grit sandpaper. Just me, I've seen some real horrible jobs where people use punches, bad idea