Ross experts - help needed, please

tacfoley

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I'm being offered a Ross Mk 3 service rifle as a vintage shooting rifle. Since what I know about Ross rifles could easily be written on the head of a pin, I'm asking here for points to look for. It is in .303 British, and is, supposedly in very fine condition, with a great and shiny bore, and knowing the vendor as I do, I have no doubts about his sincerity.

So, Gentlemen, what to look for, please?

I also found this article from an Ottawa Citizen newspaper in 1948 -


Why Ross Rifles Jammed

New light thrown on famous controversy of First Great War

Editor, Citizen: Mr. Charles A. Bowman's article of April 22 in "Through the Citizen's Looking Glass" is an interesting account of the political phase of the Ross rifle controversy in the First Great War. This was the public aspect of it.

The matter of defective ammunition is another tale. I would like to add something to Mr. Bowman's article about the actual cause of the failure of Canada's official arm in the field. This has never been brought to light, nor are there many who know the real reason.

Quite wrongly the blame was attributed to faulty British cartridges. Actually the failure stemmed from a not-too-good design, yet the rifle was supposed to be used with the English type of cartridge which Canadian troops must use when at war.

There are two critical differences between the Enfield and the Ross. The chamber of the former is larger and, of far greater importance, it is provided with a mechanism having a positive "primary extraction" which makes "jamming" an impossibility.

On the other hand the efficiency of the Ross so-called "straight pull" depends upon the looseness of the fired case in the chamber.

I was told, in 1912, by the one person responsible for the policy of cartridge making that when he was shown the chamber dimensions of the new rifle he pointed to the small size of it as undesirable and asked that it be increased to that of the Enfield. When this was emphatically refused, the only alternative left was to change the cartridge so that it would function in either rifle. This in effect was to make Canada's cartridge different from the English one, even though it was nominally the same.

To accomplish this change, two departures were made. The case under-head-size was diminished, while a tougher, more resilient brass was used in manufacture. Neither of these would be apparent, nor suspected, and could be missed in the most critical microscopic examination. Microscopically the case was identically the same as the English one.

Apart from the smaller size to fit the Ross, the new method of brass control was necessary, for when fired in the larger (Enfield) rifle an increase of 65 per cent brass stress had to be guarded against, or the brass would be strained beyond its elastic limit. Here there is a powder gas pressure of about 50,000 pounds per square inch to be considered.

With none of these complications to contend with, the English case could be made with a softer brass.

A simple, non-technical explanation of the action of the cartridge when fired is that when it is subjected to the pressure of 50,000 pounds per square inch, the case, expanding to its greatest size, forces outward every minute looseness in the breech mechanism, at the same time expanding the steel of the rifle breech. When the pressure abates, the steel returns to its normal size.

If the brass of the case is inert, it is held "jammed" because the mechanism cannot return to its free condition and this too, is accentuated by the contraction of the rifle.

Here radical differences of the rifles show:

With the Enfield, the first lifting of the breech lever draws the bolt head away from the closed position in the breech and pulls the case out of the chamber by means of the extractor attached to the head. This positive action is the "primary extraction."

With the Ross, however, the bolt head can only turn out of the locked position in the breech, if there is no friction to interfere with this action.

A statement made during the war blamed the English ammunition for the trouble and that "no cartridge made in Quebec had this fault".

When the late Lord Rhondda, as Mr. D. A. Thomas, first visited Quebec to start his investigation of munitions and to speed production, almost his first question to me was to know if I could explain the Ross failures. When I said I had a good idea as to the cause, I was asked to accompany him to the Ross factory. My reasons, stated to him and the British Arms Inspector were considered sound enough for Lord Rhondda to at once cancel the balance of 95,000 rifles due off the contract for 100,000 ordered by the British Government.

An attempt was made, about this time, to enlarge the chamber of the rifle in the Armourers' shops in England, by increasing it by four thousandths of an inch. As a member of the Small Arms Committee I blocked the official approval of this on the grounds that it would enlarge the chamber to the condemned size of the Enfield.

It will be seen that the whole fault of the rifle lay in the inability to extract the fired case. In other words, the vaunted "straight pull" was not only useless, but dangerous in a service arm which must be free of any weak features.

It was reported, unofficially, in 1915, that a rifle of somewhat similar weak design had been the arm of the Austrian army: that in the first six months of the war there were so many casualties due to "jammed" rifles, a complete re-arming with German rifles had to be made.

Lt. Col. Sydney S. Weatherbie
Ottawa, April 27, 1948
 
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Thanks for that. The one I'm being pointed at has had the rivet conversion. I'll be looking at it this weekend, but not necessarily making up my mind - getting another gun on my FAC here in UK is a long drawn-out experience......
 
Thanks for providing the design and refinement information, the cartridge manufacture details, as well as the video that clarifies how to distinguish between the versions. The correct bolt lock up and assembly info was particularly useful. I have only rarely fired the Ross Rifle that I inherited from my grandfather, who used it for target competitions with open sights at up to 1000 yards. Based on the target saved with the gun from over 100 years ago, he was very capable with it.
 
A very fine rifle with a shiny bore from a reputable seller sounds like a great candidate for a vintage shooting rifle. Is the rifle a Mk. III or a IIIB?
I know mine are excellent shooters.
Don't worry about the ammunition problems which appeared in 1915; totally irrelevant now.
The rivet in the bolt sleeve with alterations to the bolt was a WW2 modification which prevents incorrect assembly.
 
Thank you all for your replies - as I noted, I won't be seeing it until this weekend coming, but the vendor, a local RFD, assures me that not only does it have the magic rivet, but it also has almost a thousand .311 bullets to reload for it. The previous owner has moved to the 'Great Range', but was a frequent Bisley attendee with this very rifle. Meanwhile, I have some looking-up to do, in order to figure out the sub-difference - III or IIIb....hmmmmmmm

Thanks again.
 
If the front sight is akin to that of a P'14, it is a IIIB. The IIIB was made for the British, and has a different rear sight as well. A lot of standard Mk. III rifles wound up in 2nd line British service after they were withdrawn from 1st line Canadian issue, being replaced with SMLEs. The RN received many; some were marked to RN establishments. During WW2, Rosses were shipped to the UK for Home Guard use. In 1939, Canada was holding more Rosses than SMLEs.
There are IIIB rifles which were used by the British, supplied to the Whites during the Russian Civil War, captured by the Reds, supplied by Stalin to the Canadian Mac-Paps during the Spanish Civil War, captured by the Fascists, and subsequently sold off as surplus by the Franco government.
A Mk. III rifle with sharp bore should shoot very well. If the chamber hasn't been reamed oversize ("E" or "LC") on barrel breech, handloading will be easier.
Don't worry about the rivet/no rivet in the bolt sleeve. It is really obvious if the bolt is turning to lock when the breech is closed.
 
'The RN received many; some were marked to RN establishments.'

Nailed it. THAT is where this one came from, I'm told.

I watched Ian's excellent video, and can see quite plainly how the bolt and lugs rotate.

Thank you.
 
Always a good idea to check headspace. I've not seen a Ross with excess headspace, though, either IIs or IIIs.
 
T/C
(You asked......)
IMHO I would suggest you look very carefully for the "E" or "EC" as this makes reloading a PITA.
Further, if you are looking for a true "vintage shooter" I would suggest a very close look at the 1905 Mk II 2*.
They are the prize of the (military or civilian) version shooters of the Ross military target rifle family (save the single shots), and typically come with proper target sights that will let you do good work at the 500+ distance. When I was a military weapons instructor 100 years ago, I had the "Boa" (name of recipient) 2* presentation target rifle and I would take it to the ranges when we were doing 1000 yard regimental work, and was often invited back for NRA military shoots, widely featuring the "Vintage" Lee Enfields of the day (FN C1 was the "club du juor"). Rifle for rifle there was no comparison and I personally was never able to come close either with an L/E.
Sidebar was to take one of my .280 SDSs (plate 265A PP281 RRS) with a Lyman 50 target sight, under the dubious guise of a "sniper rifle" (they didn't know any better) and do some serious target work. (I never accepted any prizes, just demo'd).
As a "purpose purchase" for military shoots the 2* is the animal. For a collectors item the MKIII is just fine.
Best in your searches.
OGC
 
I'm sorry but Lt. Col. Sydney S. Weatherbie was an idiot. The Ross probably has better primary extraction that most rifles. The bolt lugs are essentially a large screw, and cycling the bolt causes the lugs to both rotate and move rearward at the same time. It has plenty of primary extraction.
 
Always a good idea to check headspace. I've not seen a Ross with excess headspace, though, either IIs or IIIs.

Just out of curiosity, any difference in how you use the gauges with a Ross? Do you peek from the back of the action along the bolt to see if it closed or not? (kind of like in the video above for checking for an incorrectly assembled bolt). Can you definitely see/feel if the bolt closed or not?
 
Hi Kotkot... The best way to tell if a Ross Mk III bolt is fully closed on a cartridge is to have a quick look at the distance between the front
face of the bolt handle and the charger/sight bridge on the right side. If the distance is less than 1/4 in then you are good to go. Any larger
and you may have a light primer strike and misfire. Any soldier in the field who disregards instructions with his Ross bolt and fiddles with it
as Ian did in FW is asking for trouble. Screwing it up on purpose does not make a rifle not safe - it makes the firer. Service Ross Mk IIIs had their chambers marked LC (Large chamber) overseas and E (factory enlarged) to accept some of the oversize (to Can standards) Brit ammo. With a rifle not so marked you have to ensure you have quality cartridges just as you must with other rifles. JOHN
 
Check the left rear lug for signs of deformation.
À Ross MkIII should cycle smoothly, but if the left lug is deformed or cracked, it will hesitate and become more and more difficult to cycle.
 
Hi Kotkot... The best way to tell if a Ross Mk III bolt is fully closed on a cartridge is to have a quick look at the distance between the front
face of the bolt handle and the charger/sight bridge on the right side. If the distance is less than 1/4 in then you are good to go. Any larger
and you may have a light primer strike and misfire. Any soldier in the field who disregards instructions with his Ross bolt and fiddles with it
as Ian did in FW is asking for trouble. Screwing it up on purpose does not make a rifle not safe - it makes the firer. Service Ross Mk IIIs had their chambers marked LC (Large chamber) overseas and E (factory enlarged) to accept some of the oversize (to Can standards) Brit ammo. With a rifle not so marked you have to ensure you have quality cartridges just as you must with other rifles. JOHN

I think you misunderstood or I did... I obviously do not have a gauge but I'm going to assume it's not _that_ much thicker than a cartridge base. Without a bolt handle that will close (or not) how can I observe that the bolt is not fully closed on a no go gauge? If it is a matter of measuring the distance from bolt handle to bridge then it's a much less certain method...

Are you saying that to test I'd put a no go gauge in the chamber, close the bolt then measure the distance from front of handle to charging bridge. If less than .25" - no go?
 
I use a different method when checking headspace on a Ross. One can observe, on the right side, the rotation of the bolthead as it goes into battery. It should not rotate quite so far when closed on a no-go gauge. The difference is slight, but can be seen.
 
Hi Kotkot... The method I was taught to use was intended for the prone position where it would was easy to see the distance between the charger guide/sight bridge and the front face of the bolt handle. Obviously after taking possession you can see with empty chamber how close the bolt handle is to the guide. This distance should be less than 1/4 in. with empty chamber or with a cartridge in the chamber. Try it with a drill round. In an Enfield excessive head space shows up with the bolt handle not going all the way down to the body. With the Ross the bolt handle will not go fully forward. If you close your bolt on a cartridge and this space is greater than 1/4 in or greater than when bolt closes on empty chamber you may have to head space your bolt. Dollars to donuts head space is the least of your problems especially on a E chamber. Always make sure that your locking lugs are undamaged and that your cut-off/bolt stop is positioned correctly before shooting. JOHN
 
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