10/22 Trigger Mods

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So I've put a few rounds (approx ~ 7000) through my first 10/22 and have been having some great results inside of 100m with some tech sights. I've made no other adjustments aside from adding a basic sling and am considering what else I can do with this plinker beyond cosmetic stuff.

This brings me to the stock trigger. It leaves something to be desired and I'm curious if anyone had had success with doing their own modifications on the existing trigger or would it be smarter to just buy an upgraded trigger.

My gunsmithing skills are somewhat limited but I'm not afraid to mess with it at this point. If that's even an option.

Is anyone able to point me in the right direction?
Am I being too picky about my basic bastard 10/22 plinker?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
Some folks send their trigger group to a company called Brimstone. I have read good things about them.
Many people mod their own trigger groups, I saw a youtube video on it once.
Ask around at your local club, someone will probably set you up for a few bucks.
 
Volquartsen makes a kit that is half the price of the of the complete trigger. Easy to do, Im mechanically challenged. Pictures on youtube
 
The Ruger BX trigger is pretty good for the money. Cheapest option you'll find.
Or try YouTube if you want to mess around with it.
 
I have a friend "Elimsprint" who has done his own trigger job. Its is beyond my skill set, but he has had very good results. If you are interested I did a 10/22 trigger comparison here:
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1509016-Ruger-10-22-Trigger-Comparison-TEST-RESULTS

NEeEniRh.jpg

Ruger - completely stock except for the Auto Bolt Release Mod (ABRM)
Ruger - all stock parts, polished by Dlask with ABRM
Ruger - Power Custom drop in parts (this is the older PC kit, so it required extra shims and a modification to the hammer) w/ ABRM
Ruger - Elimsprint modified (full description to follow, not in photo)
Ruger - Kidd Trigger Job drop in kit and ABRM
Ruger - Brimstone Tier 1 modification with wide red trigger and ABRM
Kidd - single stage (silver)
Kidd - 2 stage (black w/ silver trigger)
 
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scourge18a said:
The Ruger BX trigger is pretty good for the money. Cheapest option you'll find.
Or try YouTube if you want to mess around with it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I like my BX trigger too, I don’t need to spend a lot of money for an upgrade. Sometimes just for expensive upgrades, I could’ve bought a new gun, I am not going on the road again!
 
you are not being picky wanting to upgrade your trigger. stock 1022 triggers are not acceptable. I have a timiny that was expensive and I have a BX. I would recommend getting the ruger BX. I would be surprised if you were unhappy with it if you get one.
 
I did a trigger mod on my Ruger 10/22. Worked out really great. Watch some videos and do your research but it's totally doable if you are mechanically inclined and proceed slowly. If I were to buy another Ruger, I'd just send it off to brimstone and get their tier 2 job.

Keep in mind that the trigger only makes it easier to properly break the shot. A skilled shooter can properly break the shot regardless of the trigger and as such will see next to no accuracy improvement with a better trigger.

Polish up the internals. Polish and radius the trigger return plunger and then focus on adjusting the nut behind the trigger to get improved accuracy
 
Sakoman .308 said:
Some folks send their trigger group to a company called Brimstone. I have read good things about them.
Many people mod their own trigger groups, I saw a youtube video on it once.
Ask around at your local club, someone will probably set you up for a few bucks.
Click to expand...

Yup. Not hard. Also free, which fits my budget well. Just go slow.

I was prepared to buy a commercial drop-in, but figured I had nothing to lose by trying the mod on the stock trigger first.

While I was at it, I also did the bolt release mod (free) and swapped in a nylon buffer pin (cheap to buy, but free if you just steal one of your wife’s 1/4 inch nylon knitting needles...) Did I mention I was cheap? Shoots like a whole different gun now.
 
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I refuse to go for the Ruger BX-1 based on principal. That was the trigger that should have came with the gun to begin with, instead they continue to make 1000's of 10/22s with that awful trigger. Tear down the two trigger assemblies, it makes no sense why the BX-1 would cost significantly more to manufacture. And the worst thing is...Ruger is charging $140 for this upgrade!

The Volquartsen Target Hammer Kit was what I got my eye on. Around $50 and it replaces the Hammer, hammer spring, and trigger return spring. Brings the entire trigger weight down to 2.5lbs.
 
awesomealvin said:
I refuse to go for the Ruger BX-1 based on principal. That was the trigger that should have came with the gun to begin with, instead they continue to make 1000's of 10/22s with that awful trigger. Tear down the two trigger assemblies, it makes no sense why the BX-1 would cost significantly more to manufacture. And the worst thing is...Ruger is charging $140 for this upgrade!

The Volquartsen Target Hammer Kit was what I got my eye on. Around $50 and it replaces the Hammer, hammer spring, and trigger return spring. Brings the entire trigger weight down to 2.5lbs.
Click to expand...

I agree - the Bx isn't fabulous, it's just a proper run of the mill rifle trigger which should have come on every 10/22 from the start, and why, at that price does it not come with an auto bolt release?. Dlask carries the Kidd trigger kit and I believe Wanstalls has the Volquartsen. Also get a FAT Wrench and play with the torque settings on your action, it can make a very large difference in the grouping ability of a 10/22 - and who doesn't need a torque driver from time to time. After the easy stuff, it can become a rabbit hole and require self control to avoid replacing the whole gun one part at a time. If you're fine tuning, I'd go with an aftermarket bolt before getting into major cost, they can make a noticeable difference.
 
enefgee said:
I agree - the Bx isn't fabulous, it's just a proper run of the mill rifle trigger which should have come on every 10/22 from the start, and why, at that price does it not come with an auto bolt release?. Dlask carries the Kidd trigger kit and I believe Wanstalls has the Volquartsen. Also get a FAT Wrench and play with the torque settings on your action, it can make a very large difference in the grouping ability of a 10/22 - and who doesn't need a torque driver from time to time. After the easy stuff, it can become a rabbit hole and require self control to avoid replacing the whole gun one part at a time. If you're fine tuning, I'd go with an aftermarket bolt before getting into major cost, they can make a noticeable difference.
Click to expand...

You can do a fair bit of work with just a good file and machinist square on the bolt too, setting the headspace and squaring up the face of it can really help accuracy.
Kristian
 
I ruined my stock trigger trying to reduce the pull.

I actually got the stock trigger to the weight I wanted - 2#. But tried too many different things, and the safety wouldn't engage properly (but it did pass the vigorous drop/slam test). But I did learn a lot

For safety had to replace the stock trigger, so ordered a BX. The BX wasn't smooth, and was above 2.5#. I was able to use what I learned modifying the stock trigger and smooth the BX, and got it to 2#. Very happy with it - and it's safe

I also believe Ruger should have made the BX a stock item
 
Home done trigger job is great for improving the weight and break. If you add in modifications to control the over travel you have something really good. I've done it both ways, stoning the stock parts, and replacing them with aftermarket, and the overtravel control was about the only advantage of drop in parts.
 
I used to do 10-22 triggers using the original parts to a very crisp 2 pounds with very little over travel. The trigger movement was as little as possible for a semi auto... it usually was better than buying all the aftermarket parts... but it was time consuming and always had the possibility of needing new parts if I went too far in the alteration. Finally stopped doing them when I sold my last 10-22.
 
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