How hot should I go?

personally i would never go over what the book indicates - like others use a faster powder for velocity - learn to shoot - sometimes (always) your groups may not be the powder but the person pulling the trigger and environmental factors. I would be happy if I had a place to shoot 500m plus and it would make no difference as long as I heard the "taaaaang" after each pull
 
I think people mean to use a slower powder like 4350 instead of Varget. Slower refers to the burn rate, not bullet speed. Having been reloading for many years, and having made some reloading blunders (ahem!), I always give myself some safety margin from published max load (1-2 grains). Easier on your components, your bore (6.5 is a barrel burner) and easier on your head if you screw up. (and you will, based upon my experience)
I own several 6.5's (not CM) and I have found that H4350 consistently performs better (more accurate) than any other powders I have tried - H4831, Re19, Re22, etc.
 
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personally i would never go over what the book indicates - like others use a faster powder for velocity - learn to shoot - sometimes (always) your groups may not be the powder but the person pulling the trigger and environmental factors. I would be happy if I had a place to shoot 500m plus and it would make no difference as long as I heard the "taaaaang" after each pull

800m just feels like a completely different monster compared to 500m. My range max out at 800m, I think it's the longest public range in all of Western Canada. Any further out and I'll need to find a spot on crown land somewhere. (no clue where to even start).

There's something really satisfying about seeing a splash 1.3 seconds after discharge, followed by hearing "ding" 2 seconds later. I'm running a Prostaff 3-9x40, so the sight image is quite tiny and fuzzy, add's to the satisfaction I guess.
 
I think people mean to use a slower powder like 4350 instead of Varget. Slower refers to the burn rate, not bullet speed. Having been reloading for many years, and having made some reloading blunders (ahem!), I always give myself some safety margin from published max load (1-2 grains). Easier on your components, your bore (6.5 is a barrel burner) and easier on your head if you screw up. (and you will, based upon my experience)
I own several 6.5's (not CM) and I have found that H4350 consistently performs better (more accurate) than any other powders I have tried - H4831, Re19, Re22, etc.

Ah yes, slower burning = powder longer time to accelerate the bullet.
To be honest, the wear on my barrel is not much of a concern for me. By the time I run $1500 worth of ammo through, I hopefully can afford to upgrade to a match barrel or the entire rifle completely.
 
Hi everyone, thanks for all the great feedback.

I've measured the COAL for the bullet to hit the rifling, this however was longer than what my magazine can accommodate. I therefore seated the bullet so it just clears the magazine, and developed my load for that. I chose to user Varget...really just because it's popular. The choice to use the Hornady ELD-X 143gn was for it's availability, and also because my research suggest that it's the heaviest bullet my 1 in 8 barrel can stabilize. The heavier the bullet, the less effect from wind. No??

I was getting consistent Sub MOA with my setup, confirmed with paper targets at 100,200 and 300m. This accuracy is theoretically sufficient to hit the 10"x10" metal plate consistently at 800m. As a side note, I would need to buy a lottery ticket if I can get my gun to shoot sub 0.5 MOA. Mine is a budget heavy barrel Remington 783, MSRP around $500. 0.75-1 MOA consistently I'll say is a big A+ for Remington.

My theory is that the higher speed would be more forgiving and allow more error to remain on target. 100fps extra get's me 19 in less in drop out at 800m, that sounds quite significant to me.

It sounds like my best bet to get higher speed is to select a faster powder as oppose to adding more Varget. Hornady's book have the following powders which according to their data can output 150-200fps more speed. You guys have any suggestions for reloading newbies? On a budget here, don't really want to spend $300+ on various powders and have them collect dust haha. Also the temperature out here can swing between -40C to 30C.

BIG GAME
Alliant RL-17
NORMA URP
Hybrid 100V
IMR 4350
SUPERFORMANCE

No. You want a slower powder. Velocity is a function of peak pressure and area under the curve. A slower powder has a bigger charge of powder and more energy. I would use RL17 or H4351.

But most guys would be thrilled to have the velocity and accuracy you already found.
 
Be wary of exceeding max, even if you are not "seeing" over pressure signs. Many of these visual indicators won't show up until you are over 70,000 which in many instances is well beyond SAAMI specs.
Another option is change your scope to have a turret specific to your cartridge's and environmental specs to assist in long range hits at 800m.
If looking for more speed in the 6.5 Creedmoor, look at Re-26. Get QuickLoad to provide you with the specifics for your particular rifle and and loading components to determine safe pressure loads. Or you can look for a different bullet with a higher BC to flatten your long range trajectory
But if you are truly looking to flatten your trajectory, you need to add more volume to your case to get the velocity, or in other words select a larger cartridge, such as the 6.5 PRC.
 
H4350 in 140’s will get you to 2690-2730 FPS likely in a 24”. Mine is at 2710 at 41.1 hrs and Berger VLD hunters. 41.5 grns of H4350 for 143 ELDx at 2710 is a tad hot in my rifle but shoots good too. Hornady brass, Fed 210 primers, big bullet jump to the lands.
RL 16 or 26 powder will get you more speed yet. I would not hot rod this caliber though, keep it quick but don’t push it too hard and your brass and barrel will be happy.
 
Be wary of exceeding max, even if you are not "seeing" over pressure signs. Many of these visual indicators won't show up until you are over 70,000 which in many instances is well beyond SAAMI specs.
Another option is change your scope to have a turret specific to your cartridge's and environmental specs to assist in long range hits at 800m.
If looking for more speed in the 6.5 Creedmoor, look at Re-26. Get QuickLoad to provide you with the specifics for your particular rifle and and loading components to determine safe pressure loads. Or you can look for a different bullet with a higher BC to flatten your long range trajectory
But if you are truly looking to flatten your trajectory, you need to add more volume to your case to get the velocity, or in other words select a larger cartridge, such as the 6.5 PRC.

Ah yes, I'll be looking to into a different powder. Would love to upgrade to a Target Scope, something like the Vortex Diamondback Tactical FFP or Nikon FX1000 was on my wish list for a while now. My current Prostaff 3-9x40 is...stretching it. The turret adjustment was really designed to be zero'ed once on a hunting rifle. To hit 800m target, my turrets are dialed to the limit...very dodgy I know. But I gotta work with what I got.

My though processes was that the scope's only purpose was to provide me a point of aim, so all I got to do was determine the inaccuracy of the turret adjustment and compensate. While I was developing my load, I kept the same point of aim and dialed my scope up for each group. Made a table of the data and made educated guesses to fill in the blanks. Worked quite well so far.
 
H4350 in 140’s will get you to 2690-2730 FPS likely in a 24”. Mine is at 2710 at 41.1 hrs and Berger VLD hunters. 41.5 grns of H4350 for 143 ELDx at 2710 is a tad hot in my rifle but shoots good too. Hornady brass, Fed 210 primers, big bullet jump to the lands.
RL 16 or 26 powder will get you more speed yet. I would not hot rod this caliber though, keep it quick but don’t push it too hard and your brass and barrel will be happy.

Well I'll need to buy more powder soon, H4350 would be on the top of my list now. Same with the 140gn Hornady Bullets. Thanks
 
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