Bedding or pillars

bulldog284

bulldog284

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Go evening

I have 2 sako one a7 and another 75 both in 7-08 and both have the plastic stocks. I'm not getting consistent accuracy in either one with any reload. Was wondering if I should just skim coat the stocks only or pillar bed then skim coat them. Any advice would be appreciated

Darin
 
Pillar bed. Look up 10mm 304 stainless steel tubing and get some of that. It should be 10mm OD and 8mm ID. Then get yourself some reamers or counterbores to open up the action holes to 10mm and stay centred. Again Amazon should be able to help. Cut the pillars to length and figure out a way to keep the ends square. There are many ways to go about this even without a lathe. Use Devcon if you can find it. Bed the pillars first and let them set, then bed the action.
 
Do you have any rifles that you load for that are accurate?

Before spending the money have them inspected by a knowledgeable 'smith' and see what he says. A number of factors influence accuracy.
 
Yes I have several rifles that are very accurate and they are all customs these 2 are the only factory rifle I own, I have been reloading for years and shoot competitively in fclass
 
That's good. It most likely eliminates you as the problem.

Things to look at...

is the bore fouled?
the bases and rings tight and secure?
the scopes are good?
how about the crown?
stock screws tight?
is the barrel free floating?

if all the above checks out then I would suggest simply bedding the action stress free and making sure the barrel is floating... with the barrel clearance the thickness of a business card at minimum.

if that does not shoot, I don't believe pillars will add anything with those stocks.
 
I have checked everything off of your list and even had 2 other shooters try the rifle with the same results,
So your thinking just bedding would be good enough? What would you recommend for a bedding compound? Anything I can buy at Canadian tire?
 
I use and have used Brownells AcraGlas and AcraGel since 1966.

Wrap masking tape around the barrel... enough to hold the barrel in the center of the barrel channel and just lay the action in with one screw holding it square but not screwed in with any pressure... = stress free bedding...
 
guntech said:
I use and have used Brownells AcraGlas and AcraGel since 1966.

Wrap masking tape around the barrel... enough to hold the barrel in the center of the barrel channel and just lay the action in with one screw holding it square but not screwed in with any pressure... = stress free bedding...
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I'm really glad that you wrote this. It's about the best way to bed an action, with or without pillars there is. It stresses that it isn't a difficult job if patience and common sense are used in the process.
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Just curious why would you use just one action screw I'm assuming you are talking about the one in front? How come you would not use the back one as well to keep the action center in the stock?
 
bulldog284 said:
Just curious why would you use just one action screw I'm assuming you are talking about the one in front? How come you would not use the back one as well to keep the action center in the stock?
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The tape around the barrel keeps the whole assembly where is should be with only one screw in place ... but it is important that screw is loose. It's purpose is simply to keep the action straight up and down square to the stock...

I have screws with the heads removed so I can lower the action into place and it will be square with no tension. To get it apart after the bedding cures, I remove the screw first, then lift the action out... it's usually the rear screw I use. You can use two headless screws (trigger has to be removed) but often the recoil lug area needs to be inletted a bit as the headless screw engage the bottom metal. Many stocks are inletted slightly off and the stock screws are binding a bit. With the recoil area inletted with a little clearance, and headless screws and a taped barrel lining everything up you get a great job.
 
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guntech said:
The tape around the barrel keeps the whole assembly where is should be with only one screw in place ... but it is important that screw is loose. It's purpose is simply to keep the action straight up and down square to the stock...

I have screws with the heads removed so I can lower the action into place and it will be square with no tension. To get it apart after the bedding cures, I remove the screw first, then lift the action out... it's usually the rear screw I use. You can use two headless screws (trigger has to be removed) but often the recoil lug area needs to be inletted a bit as the headless screw engage the bottom metal. Many stocks are inletted slightly off and the stock screws are binding a bit. With the recoil area inletted with a little clearance, and headless screws and a taped barrel lining everything up you get a great job.
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X2 this has worked well for me on a few rem 700’s. I make sure everything is inleted properly before hand, doing trial fittings with the headless screws until is it sitting in the stock the way I need it to be. Then I lay out the epoxy and drop in the barrel’ed action with the stock held in a soft jaw vice and lightly hold everything together with surgical tubing.
 
prarie_boy said:
X2 this has worked well for me on a few rem 700’s. I make sure everything is inleted properly before hand, doing trial fittings with the headless screws until is it sitting in the stock the way I need it to be. Then I lay out the epoxy and drop in the barrel’ed action with the stock held in a soft jaw vice and lightly hold everything together with surgical tubing.
Click to expand...

Good Info - I like the Surgical tubing too ! Also what " GLUE " ;) are you using for your Bedding jobs ? the same for Plastic stocks and Wood ? RJ
 
guntech said:
I usually tape about an inch or two from the end of the stock. Enough wraps so they center the barrel in the channel by touching both edges.
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remington jim said:
Good Info - I like the Surgical tubing too ! Also what " GLUE " ;) are you using for your Bedding jobs ? the same for Plastic stocks and Wood ? RJ
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I have used Devcon as well as marine tex, however I prefer marine tex due to its consistency once its mixed. I have also seen people use 20 Mil pipe wrap tape ran under the barrel from forward of the recoil lug to fore end of stock. The idea being the barrel once cured will be free floating once the tape is removed. I prefer taping the barrel 1” from end of stock as the rifle looks better once all is said and done with the barrel centred in the channel.
 
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