Sizing .300wsm

blargon

blargon

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I read some past threads on full length sizing the wsm cases, and the need to shave the shellholder or die to set the shoulder back a bit. I tried the shellholder as I didn't want to screw my die up :rolleyes: , but I have gone more than .005 on it, more like .010. The cases now chamber without resistance, feels like a factory round.
 
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havent heard of this. My 300WSM and 270WSM chamber with no resistance...
You physically removed metal from your shell holder to make the round go farther into the die?
I've never had any problems with full sizing, and as I said before.. I havent heard of "machining" the dies or shell holders.
the only metal I have ever removed was trimming my cases.
 
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With the shellholder set to bottom out on the die, the case is very difficult to chamber. A well known problem apparently. Yes I had to remove material as suggested in older threads here. If yours are chambering OK, lucky you! Although it is possible that your chamber is slightly longer than mine.
 
Happened to me.Had a new Shortrac 300WSM,new RCBS FL dies and new shell holder.
Cant chamber round.I shaved my shell holder 5 thou.and everything was OK.
You can set back your die a bit if your case look loose in chamber.
 
I guess it comes down to chamber tolerances, but anyway I tried another shellholder that was .002 thinner than the original and it works well, cases fit good now.
 
my dies work fine as well , But a buddy has a tikka and he says he feels a bit of resistance when closing his bolt ,but his reloads chamber fine in my gun
 
"...set to bottom out on the die..." The bottom of the die should just kiss the shell holder with the ram all the way up. If you had it so it 'thunked' the die was down too far. You sure your die is an FL sizer?
If you move the shoulder back too far you will have headspace issues. There's no way the shoulde rpart of any case can be blown out of the rifle. Too much steel in the way. Case head and gasses sure.
 
sunray said:
"...set to bottom out on the die..." The bottom of the die should just kiss the shell holder with the ram all the way up.
Click to expand...
according to the RCBS instructions with my FL die sets they all state " turn the die in untill it touchs the shell holder and then give one more 1/4 turn"
Lee says the same

In theroy it should not matter if you gave it 1 full turn after it contacted the shell holder ,because once the shellholder and FL Die are in contact ,they are in contact the steel wont compress so how can it setback the shoulder? If put a 1/4" steel washer on top of the shellholder ,screw a FL die to touch the washer and then give it 1 full turn after I let the ram down and re-raise the ram up with the washer still on the shell holder and press down with all my might , it will still be a 1/4" washer would it not?
 
BCboy said:
according to the RCBS instructions with my FL die sets they all state " turn the die in untill it touchs the shell holder and then give one more 1/4 turn"
Lee says the same

In theroy it should not matter if you gave it 1 full turn after it contacted the shell holder ,because once the shellholder and FL Die are in contact ,they are in contact the steel wont compress so how can it setback the shoulder? If put a 1/4" steel washer on top of the shellholder ,screw a FL die to touch the washer and then give it 1 full turn after I let the ram down and re-raise the ram up with the washer still on the shell holder and press down with all my might , it will still be a 1/4" washer would it not?
Click to expand...

You're right, hence the need to slightly shave the shellholder to allow the shell to go into the die .001 further to bump the shoulder back, as the cases would not chamber easily.

BTW, I traded the WSM 4 months ago.:p
 
I had to machine my shell holder also.
I don't have a 300WSM but the chamber in
my gun is very tite and this helped. I have a
few Swiss Arms that I load for and all of them
seem to be on the tite end for chamber specs.
 
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