280 Ross

JaredP said:
My 280 bore slugged at .290

I've been converting a bag of original 280 Kynoch cases to boxer on my lathe.

The 300WM I've converted have all failed at the belt after a couple full-pressure firings. I would avoid any belted H&H parent conversion.
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This is indeed odd I have multiple firings on my .300 H&H Hornady reformed brass, full patch loads with no issues.
 
Terry Wieland did an article on the .280 Ross for either "Handloader" or "Rifle" magazine".

Should be in their archives.
 
303EppsFan said:
This is indeed odd I have multiple firings on my .300 H&H Hornady reformed brass, full patch loads with no issues.
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Perhaps the brass I was using was too fatigued.

My load was 70gr of Retumbo. 160gr Barnes .288, ~2800 FPS, when I started getting the failures with converted 300 Win Mag.

My converted, annealed Kynoch 280 brass have survived 72gr of Retumbo with the 160gr.
 
JaredP said:
Pretty simple. Anneal, run through the 280 Ross sizer.
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Fair enough. When I read that you had a lathe, I was afraid that you'd tried to turn off the belt.

If you haven't seen it already, there's an excellent thread on the nitroexpress.com forum from a guy in Oz making .280's from .300 WM, complete with lots of photos. He does say that the sizing is a slow process, 1-2 mm stages, rotating each time.
 
Some 280 ammo still around. At the Brandon gun show this past weekend , one guy had a couple boxes of Kynoch ammo for sale. Sorry don't know who it was but expect southern Manitoba.
 
howard2 said:
Some 280 ammo still around. At the Brandon gun show this past weekend , one guy had a couple boxes of Kynoch ammo for sale. Sorry don't know who it was but expect southern Manitoba.
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I've seen it for sale from time to time also. It's pretty much in the collector's realm now though. Certainly the prices are! The cartridges are definitely worth more as intact collectables than usable ammo, especially in the original box. I've heard it said too, that the old Kynoch brass may not be great for reloading, but I have no personal experience with it to know for sure. The economics just seem to favour loading new cases.
 
have a body tapper die made a few years ago,
First run donor brass through it and then work on the shoulder neck with the loading dies
..If you start off with the loading die you have either cracked or going to crack your dies
 
Another thing to bear in mind too: Yes, it can be time-consuming to convert the cases initially, but this is not a constant process; it's a one-time chore to form brand new cases. After they're formed, you're simply going to be reloading them in the normal manner from then on, not spending hours on case-forming every time you shoot. Unless you're planning on opening a one-man second front armed with a .280 Ross, you're not going need a constant supply of fresh cases, and you're not going to be spending every waking hour forming new brass.
 
vykkagur said:
I've seen it for sale from time to time also. It's pretty much in the collector's realm now though. Certainly the prices are! The cartridges are definitely worth more as intact collectables than usable ammo, especially in the original box. I've heard it said too, that the old Kynoch brass may not be great for reloading, but I have no personal experience with it to know for sure. The economics just seem to favour loading new cases.
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I converted 10 Kynoch brass to boxer, and only one has failed so far, at the neck. I also didn't anneal as much as I could, I was using salt bath annealing which doesn't get as hot as my new induction annealer.

Although Kyoch brass cracked my set of 280 dies...
 
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