Older shotgun barrel modification to shoot steel

Gunwhere

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Hey guys, i know very little about this so i thought to put it out to some potential experts!

I have a few different old12g shotguns, all with fixed barrel chokes and i would love to continue using these to hunt as an extra gun or something to that extent with the ability to shoot steel. They are remington 58 sportsman, browning A5 (i think), and a beretta A300. Right now all I can use them for is skeet or upland and i would love to get them back into use for ducks and geese, and theyre in great shape.

I have talked to a couple people about getting these older barrels either reamed out or threaded for new style chokes and they said its not possible/worth it. And the option of getting new barrels i think is really pricey. So the question is what if i got a gunsmith to agree to cut the end of the barrel down an inch or 2 to the specific radius of what an improved modified would be, and then re-install the bead? 2 of them have a rail, and 1 the bead is directly on the barrel.

What are your thoughts/input; Can it be done? Is it dangerous? When dealing with fixed chokes are the chokes normally a certain degree for a certain length so you can just cut off the end? Or are there different degrees of gradient inside the barrel so its not quite that simple?

Thank you!
 
In the shotgun forum above... there is a sticky about this very subject...

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/966587-Steel-Shot-Older-Gun

I must have posted this 50 times now...

SHOTGUN BARREL ALTERATIONS FOR STEEL SHOT

Forcing Cone Alteration:

Factory shotgun barrels usually have a fairly short and abrupt forcing cone. The forcing cone is the tapered area just ahead of the chamber where the shell is contained. Altering the forcing cone, so it is one and one half or two inches in length, reduces recoil and improves the pattern density. Trap shooters and skeet shooters have been doing this for many years. It is a good benefit to the steel shot user as well.

Choke Alteration:
Choke designation from the tightest to the most open are:
Extra Full, Full, Improved Modified, Modified, Skeet II, Improved Cylinder, Skeet I, and Cylinder Bore.

Steel shot does not require the constriction that lead shot needs, to produce good patterns. In fact too much constriction, causes poor, erratic patterns, and in some cases, permanently damages the barrel. I have seen barrels bulged at the choke, I have seen barrels where the choke split right open, from using steel shot.

For steel shot, with thin barrels, chokes should be altered to at least Skeet II. Often, over & under, and side-by-side shotguns, are best altered to Skeet I and Skeet II chokes. Heavier barrels can be left at Modified choke but may see an improvement in the pattern if opened slightly.
 
A gunsmith friend of mine threaded a fixed choke barrel to take choke tubes by reaming out the choke then threading the muzzle with a double thread as well as it requires double threaded choke tubes. Also as guntech has said; lengthen the forcing cone. Double threads are two parallel thread grooves which allows the threads to be 1/2 as deep

cheers mooncoon
 
If you only hunt a few times a season just buy a flat a bismuth shells. I use kent bismuth in most of my sxs guns when i feel like using a sxs. My main waterfowl gun is a beretta a303 with a factory mod barrel
 
Hey guys, thank you for the responses so far. Do you mind elaborating a bit on the forcing cone stuff please.

Also all guns are full choke. Will bismuth shoot out of that ok?

Im also still curious regarding how the permanent chokes are done? Is there a standard degree or tightening angle inside near the end of the barrel? Or is it a standard length with a varying degree?

Thanks!
 
IIRC that Beretta 300 has a chrome-lined bore, so reaming or tubing it will be more expensive.

Fixed choke profiles have no standardized 'shape', i.e. the angle of the tightening, to put it terribly.

Pick the one gun you shoot the best, and put in choke tubes and lengthen the cone. It will cost you but you'll have a versatile gun. Use softer non-toxic shot in the other guns on the rare occasions you'll use them.
 
Hey guys, thank you for the responses so far. Do you mind elaborating a bit on the forcing cone stuff please.

Also all guns are full choke. Will bismuth shoot out of that ok?

Im also still curious regarding how the permanent chokes are done? Is there a standard degree or tightening angle inside near the end of the barrel? Or is it a standard length with a varying degree?

Thanks!

Yes bismuth is fine thru a full choke.
Not all non steel non tox is soft though. Brands that offer listings for classic doubles are safe in older fixed choked guns.
Bismuth gets you almost back to the days of lead shot. Its not cheap but it works better than steel.
I still use 1oz #6 steel for finsihing cripples on the water thru some of my thicker barreled sxs guns but when hunting ponds or ditches or marshes i generally bring my nicer double guns and use strictly bismuth. #4 and #6
 
The other minor issue is shotgun shell length. The older shotguns are typically 2 3/4 in (not sure about the beretta 300). Steel shot is less dense than lead, so a 2 3/4 in shell is limited in its capacity to carry steel shot. You can buy 2 3/4 in steel shells, but most folks prefer 3 inch or 3 1/2 for their hunting purposes, and source shotguns accordingly.
If the Beretta is 3 inch capable, then it has a head start on the others. Unfortunately, as stated above, if it has a chrome lined bore, the prospect of threading the bore for choke tubes becomes difficult and expensive at best.
You could cut down the barrels as you suggest. You would likely loose a couple of inches of barrel until the right bore size is achieved (think improved cylinder rather than improved modified).
However, cutting the barrels will reduce the value of the guns, particularly if they are modestly collectible. You can pick up a newer steel rated, 3 in chamber, choke tubed semi for ~ 400$ used (eg: Weatherby or Baikal) and be ahead of the game.
 
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