Norinco NP34 Modifications

KidTactics

KidTactics

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Hey Gang

As some of you know from my previous thread I have purchased a Norc NP34 as my first hand gun. Waiting for the transfer to go through and doing some research on aftermarket parts available and areas where it needs improvement. I know some of you are going to say " just take it to the range and shoot it as is before you start modifying things" but one thing I found terrible was the DA pull and feel. Compared to a legit Sig that had at the store the Sig was much more smooth and had a lighter feel whilst the Norc felt heavy and gritty. I heard shooting it and working it in would smooth it out a bit. The other issue is the super crappy plastic grip.

I have found it harder to find aftermarket parts for this pistol and especially available in Canada compared to a 1911 or a Glock for example. I have purchased Hogue rubber grips which i purchased online from Tillsonburg gun shop which were approx $44 with shipping. I also found a Wolff 17lb lightened hammer spring for $20 shipped from Practical Performance Products. I have read adding the lightened hammer spring could cause some light hammer strikes so that's something to keep an eye on.

Other than that I really want to ceramic coat her , I have used a VHT flameproof silica ceramic coat on several motorcycle exhausts and it has held up really well. I have read that some people have also used this on their firearms and it does fairly well. The color i have is a " cast iron" color that is a dark matt grey and after baked as a bronzish gold hue to it. It is a bake on type coating that have different heat stages to the bake making for a fairly durable finish. Anyways since this is a budget build I don't mind experimenting with this pistol in particular and will update with pics after i coat her.

If any one has any other mods worth doing or upgrades please share. I have searched this forum and read most of the Norc NP22/34 write ups.

thanks
 
What's the difference in the grip between the 22 and 34 ? I know the barrel is a smidge shorter but not sure about the grip. Didn't pull the trigger fast enough on the Bullseye sale and might settle for the 34 instead.
 
GSG1911 said:
What's the difference in the grip between the 22 and 34 ? I know the barrel is a smidge shorter but not sure about the grip. Didn't pull the trigger fast enough on the Bullseye sale and might settle for the 34 instead.
Click to expand...

NP22 is P226, NP34 is P228. So you'll want the 228/229 grips, though they sometimes need a little modification to fit.
 
GSG1911 said:
What's the difference in the grip between the 22 and 34 ? I know the barrel is a smidge shorter but not sure about the grip. Didn't pull the trigger fast enough on the Bullseye sale and might settle for the 34 instead.
Click to expand...

Frame and slide are shorter; barrel is about the same length, it just sticks out. Of all the Norks I own and have owned, my NP58 (.40 cal version of the NP22) was the nicest finished of the works. As I posted in the other thread, I got a pair of Uncle Mike's rubber overmoulded grips for mine, and it was much better, but still plenty big for my hand. If I had kept it I would have put the E 2 grips on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YLOXv0kE5s The E 2 Spring improves the pull somewhat as well.

Try to avoid dry-firing your pistol as both the nork and the SIG are prone to firing pin breakage due to dry firing. SIG pins fit as replacements BTW.
 
Check one of the threads i've started way back for NP22/34. It has a ton of info with links there. Feel free to add to the posts there any valuable info you have or might find elsewhere.
Cheers.
 
I too had problems with the SRT kit in my Np22. It was causing problems when I tried to shoot the gun double action. Otherwise, it worked fine. What I discovered was that the dimensions much be out slightly, and I compensated for that by making a pin that had a reduced diameter (other than the ends that fit in the frame). I discovered that by watching the double action operate while I held the part in place using a pin punch, rather than the oem pin. One might also achieve the same thing by slightly enlarging the hole in the part of he srt the pin goes through, but it seemed more sensible to me to not destroy an srt by making such a modification.
 
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