Who actually uses a BDC scope?

DVXDUDE

DVXDUDE

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I bought my first BDC reticle scope this year for my .22 250. It's a Vortex Diamondback HP 4-16x42 BDC.

From the manual it states for varmint calibers I should use a 200 yard zero and 1st hash marks 300yd 2nd 450yrd 3rd 550 yrs.

I'm shooting a Sako 85 24" barrel 50g Sako SP factory ammo. I have lined the gun up and it shoots under Moa at 100 yards (2" high) I plan on trying it out at farther distances and seeing how close it actually is once we get some good weather.

I'm curious to know what I can expect, Does anyone use a bullet drop reticle like this?, especially in hunting situations where shots from 200-400 yards are common (coyote hunting)?
 
I have one on my 300WSM that I zero'd the 200 yard hash mark at 200. The 100 yard mark is really close upon testing. It's mostly wishful thinking, as I've never even needed to shoot out to 200 yards, let alone beyond with it. I think its a good concept, if one takes the time to verify the point of impact at various distances.
 
My experience has been not so good.

What I eneded up doing was sighting in at 200, then moved the gong around until i hit it with the next bdc. Range that spot and created a dope card.
 
Ive got one of sorts, the Boone and Crockette reticle on my hunting rifle. Its supposed to work for a bunch of different calibers but Im using it with 180gr 30-06. Still have to confirm that it works out to 500yds as advertised but Im comfortable with it out to 300.
 
I've been using a Nikon P-233 3x9x40 with BDC to 600, on a Remington 700 tactical in .223. The scope is rated for a 20 inch AR barrel using 55 gr round. I have had great success with the set up hitting yotes...farthest been around the 360 give or take a few yards.
 
It's critical to note what magnification level the marks are intended to work at. You can possibly adjust the magnification level to compensate for a variation in trajectory of your particular load. That is what Nikon has you do. They have a web site with an online calculator, that supposedly computes the correct magnification for your load. If it turns out not to be correct, you can use more or less magnification.
 
Grizzlypeg said:
It's critical to note what magnification level the marks are intended to work at. You can possibly adjust the magnification level to compensate for a variation in trajectory of your particular load. That is what Nikon has you do. They have a web site with an online calculator, that supposedly computes the correct magnification for your load. If it turns out not to be correct, you can use more or less magnification.
Click to expand...

Yep, bingo. Forgot to mention that. Ultimately you need to get out and shoot at all distances so you know your dope is accurate.
 
If you think about it, a BDC reticle is really just a super crude "milling" reticle with a few subtensions. For most reticles you can look up (in the manual or sometimes an online pdf) what the actual subtensions are between the different hashmarks (in mils or moa) and if you can't do that, you can always measure them on paper at 100 yards. From there, just zero at 100 in the centre of the reticle, chrono your ammo and make a dope chart. That way you'll see exactly what ranges the other hash marks are correct at and can work out where to hold for different ranges.
 
Grizzlypeg said:
It's critical to note what magnification level the marks are intended to work at. You can possibly adjust the magnification level to compensate for a variation in trajectory of your particular load. That is what Nikon has you do. They have a web site with an online calculator, that supposedly computes the correct magnification for your load. If it turns out not to be correct, you can use more or less magnification.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's worth noting. Vortex says their BDC is only to be used on the highest magnification (mine being 16x) which makes sense. A coyote at 400 yards on 4x power the dots are pretty far apart lol

Appreciate the posts so far, Keep them coming. I'll my post results in a few days hopefully
 
My preference for when shooting from a hide / pest control. You get to know the best places the quarry perches and the corresponding drop. Really useful for .22lr when gauging drop.

Same for some open valleys, when again shooting from a fixed position. Much faster than adjusting the elevation turret I think.

Candocad.
 
Years ago, when one was able to do it and they were in business, I had Premier Reticles in Virginia (they at that time made reticles for government agencies of all kind) modify my VXIII 6.5-20 scope with a reticle with cross hairs at 200yd (zero) and at 600 with decreasing sized dots out to 1000 yds to match my ballistics of my 300 weatherby.
It has been amazing and has bagged many animals over the years, and that is the reason it has been my main rifle over the last many years.
I have confidently made precise shots that were accurate after ranging.
Yes, it has to be at high power, but after much practice and 2 barrels later, it was a very good choice.

While hunting I prefer a reticle system vs a dial it system as, I cannot see the turrets well without glasses, and the reticle is much quicker with practice.
There are many systems now, back then there were very, very few.
 
I use Strelok, and that allows me to memorize the yardage for each hash. Not even numbers, but so much better to have hashes in the vertical, than trying to estimate holdovers on a plain plex reticle.
 
I have the Boone and Crockett one and to be honest I don’t use it. I just remember how much drop there is out to 400 yards. I took a goat at 420 yards this year with it. That is my absolute max range for my shooting abilities. Know your gun and know your rounds trajectory. I find the simpler I make it the easier things become in the moment of truth.
 
I have two Burris FF2 3-9X40 with their BallisticPlex reticule, both on 300 Magnum rifles.

They work fine. Just need to actually check out the POIs at the range with whatever load you are using.

Ted
 
DVXDUDE said:
I bought my first BDC reticle scope this year for my .22 250. It's a Vortex Diamondback HP 4-16x42 BDC.

From the manual it states for varmint calibers I should use a 200 yard zero and 1st hash marks 300yd 2nd 450yrd 3rd 550 yrs.

I'm shooting a Sako 85 24" barrel 50g Sako SP factory ammo. I have lined the gun up and it shoots under Moa at 100 yards (2" high) I plan on trying it out at farther distances and seeing how close it actually is once we get some good weather.

I'm curious to know what I can expect, Does anyone use a bullet drop reticle like this?, especially in hunting situations where shots from 200-400 yards are common (coyote hunting)?
Click to expand...

Tried bdc scopes very briefly, a little real world experience quickly made me realize it was not for me. I prefer ffp scopes with a horus type mil reticle and mil turrets.
 
That's why I like my Burris Eliminator 3.

Just press button...instant holdover.... compensates for elevation.



Have ranged antelope out to 900 yards....which covers max killing distance of ALL but the UBER mags.

It's the perfect hunting scope.

Easy to mount.

Wish they integrated a bubble level, wind compensation, and brighter glass.
 
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