grouse gun

My first line of defence vs Grouse is a 1930 model 06 Winchester pump .22, but since I ran into a few bears on one trip last year, I have switched to a 12 gauge HP-9 shotgun. :D
 
Browning t-bolt .22lr is my go to ditch chicken gun. Around here they get pressured pretty hard so by the end of the season as soon as they hear a vehicle they split. It pays to be able to hit them at 75yds or more.
 
I went grouse hunting just last weekend to Gogama and seen some. Decided to hunt with Savage Mark II using .22lr Remington Target bullets. I think that was a mistake, those bullets were hitting birds but not killing them like I want to. Next time I will use yellow jackets on grouse.
Over three days hunting I got only 7 birds.
 
head shots are pretty much the way to go with grouse if you're using a .22,but that's why I am looking at shotgun alternatives-sort of torn between a .410 and a 20 guage,favouring the latter with its versatility.I've tried invain to locate a 20 guage barrel for my savage 219,so am likely going to just have to buy a shotgun
 
chappy said:
i have had good results with cci 36 gn hp minimag. some of the rnd nose seem to blow thru and the birds would be lost.
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I totally agree with, and I've learned hard way.
At one point when I was hunting, it took me 3 bullets!!! to bring grouse down from the tree, all of them hit him and he was still there.... :(
 
I use an old Ranger single shot 20 ga that I inherited from my grandfather, lots taken with the single 410 too. It's illegal in NS to shoot game birds with a single projectile.
 
Remington 870 in 28 ga. or Baikal o/u 28 ga. Once used a 30-06 (nice head shot) but got teased too much for spending a buck on a few ounces of feathers! Shot or projectile, head shots only. Too much damage to breast otherwise...
 
For birds on the ground I've been using a savage O/U 22LR/20 ga. but am always hesitant to use the shotgun for fear it will cause too much damage - I'm thinking about getting a bore insert/adapter that would allow me to shoot .410 as well - not sure where to find such a thing but I'm sure they exist.

I'm going to give my 20 ga. sxs coach gun a try this year as well - it's pointed fine for me on the sporting clays range.

/gc
 
grayrc said:
but am always hesitant to use the shotgun for fear it will cause too much damage
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This is why I favor the 14" barreled shotguns. :D With the CB or IC chokes they typically have, the shot spread is usually 6-8 inches at usual grouse ranges. This is the also why I loved my 870MM for grousing for years; open choke. :D


In the case of long barrel full chokes; "Aim high Willis! Aim high!" :p :D
 
Take your shotgun to the range, pattern it at say 15 yds, lead head or wing by edge of pattern you made & stick with whatever choke you have. Have shot lots of chickens with 12ga. full choke & not touched the breast with pellets.
 
grayrc said:
For birds on the ground I've been using a savage O/U 22LR/20 ga. but am always hesitant to use the shotgun for fear it will cause too much damage
/gc
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Well if one is ground shooting birds at stone's-throw distances, yes, they'll destroy the bird (I'm not suggesting you do that grayrc). That's why you don't shoot them that close with a shotgun. Even better if you shoot them after they flush because then you generally nail them in the back. Choke was designed by waterfowlers; for us upland game hunters it's a nasty handicap. Open cylinder or IC and LIGHT loads (1 to 1-1/8 oz) from a 12 will make a deadly wingshooter's gun. Smaller gauges are recommended. It doesn't take a lot to bring down a ruffie on the wing.

Sharptails are another story altogether.
 
Grouse Man said:
Well if one is ground shooting birds at stone's-throw distances, yes, they'll destroy the bird (I'm not suggesting you do that grayrc). That's why you don't shoot them that close with a shotgun. Even better if you shoot them after they flush because then you generally nail them in the back. Choke was designed by waterfowlers; for us upland game hunters it's a nasty handicap. Open cylinder or IC and LIGHT loads (1 to 1-1/8 oz) from a 12 will make a deadly wingshooter's gun. Smaller gauges are recommended. It doesn't take a lot to bring down a ruffie on the wing.
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There seem to be times & places where we can't get them flush (i.e. birds who are standing in the middle of a trail 20 yards out when you round a corner will just slip off into the underbrush), so yes, I do shoot them on the ground <I know, I know... it's not as sporting> but I've only ever done that with the 22 (attempting headshots with the iron sights on my Savage 24 O/U), and never the shotgun (so I've missed more than a few as a result). Chokes in my 20 ga coach gun are IC & Mod. and I'll take the suggestion to pattern it at 15yards then try a headshot with the outside of the spread... or maybe they'll all flush this year :)

/gc
 
CZ Bobwhite in 20ga. I use the SK and IC tubes.

20ga004.jpg
 
I put quite a few in the pot out bowhunting this year with my Maverick 12ga and a #6 Haven't destroyed any breast meat yet (not a single pellet actually) and it's done the job every time. I was mostly carrying it in case of bear but kept the #6 loaded first just for grouse. Friend of mine shot one ptarmigan with it and I have to say it was too much gun for that though.

Do any of you use steel shot for your grouse gun? Or do you worry about some of the shot bouncing back when you are taking one around some big trees?
 
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