.25-20 GO / NO-GO Gage set?

sean69

sean69

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Anybody have a .25-20 Winchester GO / NO-GO gage set they are willing to loan or sell? (and possibly a reamer for the same?)

-thanks
-sean
 
It'll be the same for .218 Bee, and 32-20.

Are you inspecting, or wishing to use them for chambering?

Being rimmed, the cartridge only spaces on the thickness of the rim, and a depth micrometer or careful use of the rod out the beam end of a digital calipers should be adequate to ensure that you are between min and max.
 
trevj said:
It'll be the same for .218 Bee, and 32-20.

Are you inspecting, or wishing to use them for chambering?

Being rimmed, the cartridge only spaces on the thickness of the rim, and a depth micrometer or careful use of the rod out the beam end of a digital calipers should be adequate to ensure that you are between min and max.
Click to expand...


Yes - both - I got a new barrel and the action closes up just a teensy bit too tight, just wondering if I need to shave a couple thousandths off the (breech?) face of the barrel.




gstprecision said:
Check with Gary at Bighorn Gun parts.

bighorngunparts@gmail.com
Click to expand...


thanks! will check in.
 
might be a brass issue ,the older Remington and winchester have a thinner rim than the newer winchester and starline brass I found in my Ballard .It closes ok but a noticeable drag at the end
 
pmatuk said:
might be a brass issue ,the older Remington and winchester have a thinner rim than the newer winchester and starline brass I found in my Ballard .It closes ok but a noticeable drag at the end
Click to expand...

Yes - it is resized .32-20 Starline brass I am working with. Good to know.
 
FLHTCUI said:
Could you use some factory 25-20 Brass Sean?
I have some mixed brass that I could part with.
This is factory one fired ammo I bought for test purpose of the Model 92 I bought last spring.
Does Free sound good?
Shoot me a mailing addy via pm .
Rob
Click to expand...

Thanks! - my brass is actually that nickel plated stuff (sucks for reforming!) and is quite a bit short....


A&Shuntr said:
Why don't you just make yourself some on your big lathe. .065"min. .072"max, too easy...
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I was kinda considering that ... though accuracy on my lathe is not great .. I may wind up making 20 or 3 sets before I get one "in spec" - with that amount of time wasted I may have just as well bought a set! :)
 
sean69 said:
Thanks! - my brass is actually that nickel plated stuff (sucks for reforming!) and is quite a bit short....




I was kinda considering that ... though accuracy on my lathe is not great .. I may wind up making 20 or 3 sets before I get one "in spec" - with that amount of time wasted I may have just as well bought a set! :)
Click to expand...

Use Brass or aluminum.

Consider. You are going to use this, it is not going to be subject to unkind treatment. It does not, thus, have to be hardened and ground. Hardened and ground is for durability in unkind hands!

Should be a matter of a few minutes work, likely less time than it would take you to walk to the Post office.

With a very sharp cutting tool, you can quickly shape out the main body, and then sneak up on the size with very light cuts.
 
trevj said:
Use Brass or aluminum.

Consider. You are going to use this, it is not going to be subject to unkind treatment. It does not, thus, have to be hardened and ground. Hardened and ground is for durability in unkind hands!

Should be a matter of a few minutes work, likely less time than it would take you to walk to the Post office.

With a very sharp cutting tool, you can quickly shape out the main body, and then sneak up on the size with very light cuts.
Click to expand...

you do have a point ...

so seeing as we know the min/max rim thickness (as mentioned 0.065 - 0.072) What should the gage thicknesses be?? the GO gage should be at the lower limit (0.065) and the NO-GO should be just something just over 0.072? (0.073??)
 
sean69 said:
you do have a point ...

so seeing as we know the min/max rim thickness (as mentioned 0.065 - 0.072) What should the gage thicknesses be?? the GO gage should be at the lower limit (0.065) and the NO-GO should be just something just over 0.072? (0.073??)
Click to expand...

Were I making these for my use, I would go with three pieces. One at the minimum, one at max, and one at a couple or three thou over max as the No-Go.

For what it's worth, I would likely just measure the brass I was going to use, and match the chamber to that measurement. Given that the Starline stuff is a little 'fat', like as not, any other brass you use will fit fine in a chamber that fits the Starline stuff.
 
trevj said:
Were I making these for my use, I would go with three pieces. One at the minimum, one at max, and one at a couple or three thou over max as the No-Go.

For what it's worth, I would likely just measure the brass I was going to use, and match the chamber to that measurement. Given that the Starline stuff is a little 'fat', like as not, any other brass you use will fit fine in a chamber that fits the Starline stuff.
Click to expand...

Seeing as its going up for sale when I finish it -I want to be 100% sure there will be no chambering issues.. even though it is a brand new barrel :)
 
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