Late Mod 7 Rem

[bearhunter]

I had my first experience with a late built Rem Mod 7 today.

I most certainly didn't like the stamped metal trigger guard/floor plate assembly, right off the get go. The trigger is different as well.

Glad it isn't my rifle.

I put a new barrel onto it for the owner, we'll see how it shoots in a few days. He wanted something heavier than the 6mm Rem it was chambered in, so now it wears a 7-08 take off bbl. With appropriate bullets, IMHO the difference is only in his mind in a real world situation. Mind you the new barrel isn't pencil thin and it's 8cm longer.

Had a heck of a time getting the factory installed barrel off the receiver. Had to use a meter long snipe on the wrench. When it came apart, there was a loud "snap" and you could smell the Loctite. This is the first time I've run across a factory installed barrel, on a Remington action that needed Loctite to keep it in place. The threads were on the minimum side and were actually sloppy, after cleaning.

I went to true up the action but it really didn't need it so I tried fitting the NEW/OLD take off bbl. The threads were a bit tight, which IMHO is better than to loose.

Needed to have the shoulder slightly set back, so it would index properly then slightly open the chamber for good headspace. Quick and simple job. Hope it was worth the effort.

 

[double gun]

Late model?
Only the earliest m7s had stamped triggerguards which was quickly dumped for the cast version like the 700’s.

 

[guntech]

I prefer loose threads over tight threads... I think loose allows the 60 degree threads to 'center' better when the shoulder butts against the action.

I have removed hundreds of 700 barrels that had factory 'sealant' in the threads. New and old.

 

[billdick]

All the 700's I've taken apart smell of loctite. After the first one I've warmed up every one after that. Much easier.

 

[bearhunter]

Late model?
Only the earliest m7s had stamped triggerguards which was quickly dumped for the cast version like the 700’s.

You could be right on this. Looked closer at the rifle today, the receiver and bolt match, the stock that the rifle came in doesn't appear to be original and the trigger appears to be different from my older Mod 7s. I had to replace the mag well because someone had cut it down. It's a mixmaster, that's been cobbled together.

This is the first stamped plate I've run across.

I don't get to work on a lot of Mod 7 rifles and most certainly don't work on as many as guntech or double gun. This rifle was a learning curve for me.

As for loose or tight threads, guntech is likely right. I'm just to anal to make them loose on purpose.

billdick, I will be warming up any Remington I come across with a factory installed barrel.

Usually the Remington rifles I work on, aren't factory original. They usually have been re barreled and had after market triggers installed.

I picked up a barreled Rem 700 action out of a parts bin last week. It had been mauled with a hammer and wasn't usable for anything but parts. Even the bolt was mangled. It was free and still had a trigger attached. When I looked closer at it today, the trigger is a Trigger Tech. Bonus. The action screws were still in it as well.

The firearms I get coming in are mostly from locals that can't afford to take them to a gunsmith with a shop, who has overhead to maintain. Some days, what should be obvious, I miss.

 

[DANS40X]

The so called loctite isn't loctite.

The sealer is to prevent bluing salts from bleeding out between/under the recoil lug/receiver from the ISS/JLock mid 90's era when Rem submerged the complete Bbl'd action into the bluing tanks & had returns from idiots that didn't have the sense to apply a couple drops of gun oil on the bleed out & wipe it off.

Yes,once fixtured,apply a little heat into said chamber w/ a propane torch to allow a drop of oil to bleed out between the lug & receiver.
No cheater bars required....w/ a quality action/barrel vise.

 

[bearhunter]

The so called loctite isn't loctite.

The sealer is to prevent bluing salts from bleeding out between/under the recoil lug/receiver from the ISS/JLock mid 90's era when Rem submerged the complete Bbl'd action into the bluing tanks & had returns from idiots that didn't have the sense to apply a couple drops of gun oil on the bleed out & wipe it off.

Yes,once fixtured,apply a little heat into said chamber w/ a propane torch to allow a drop of oil to bleed out between the lug & receiver.
No cheater bars required....w/ a quality action/barrel vise.

Thanx for this. That stuff sure smells like Loc Tite. I remember those days, when people would get upset by the unsightly leakage of blueing salts. Still just goes to show how many people think this is all alchemy and rocket science.