What tools do you use to mount your scope

Skogkatt

Skogkatt

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Hi everybody,

I mounted my scope VX-5HD 2-9 with Leupold QR rings and mounts on my rifle (Browning hells canyon speed 30-06) and tested it on the range. I was not able to hit even the target at 100 yards...

It was funny to shoot and see that the scope moved after a couple of shots. Obviously I did something really wrong. I watched youtube videos but I do not had the right tools for the job.

I leveled the rifle and the scope with bubble levels and I used the trick of the light through the scope to straighten the crosshair.


What do you use to make sure that at least you will hit the target at a 100 yards so you can zero your scope?

Thanks!
 
Yup, something went really wrong.

The only tools you need are some basic hand tools, and it sounds like a torque wrench would be helpful, at least until you really get a feel for it. Ive seen some pretty inconsistent bubble levels, tolerances that will cause more problems than they solve.

Watch a few more YouTube videos and try again. Take your first shots closer to 10 yards than 100 next time.
 
Obviously the scope must be mounted securely, but that is really straightforward.
Boresighting, either using a collimator or by simply looking through the bore, will insure that the first shot is going to be reasonably close. Don't fire the first shot at 100; start much closer. And have a large sheet of cardboard, etc. to catch the first shot.
 
I bore sight at the range using an object way out. Then I start real close, like 10-15 yards.

To level the scope, I use a string with a weight to get a vertical, and level the rifle using a bubble level. Rotate the scope to match the string.
 
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I use a weaver level kit and torque screw driver. I personally have never lapped the rings on any of my rifles and have never seen the negative effects of not doing it. I do believe it is beneficial to do so.

After mounting, I look through the bore and pick something 25 -35 yards away and adjust the scope to that spot. 9 out of ten times I am within 2 inches of the bullseye at 50 yards on the first shot.

Good luck with your diagnosis.
 
Thank you very much! You guys are awesome!

I will look for those tools, make adjustments and test it. I will keep you updated!
 
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A flat head screwdriver and whatever Torx or Hex screws your rings use... if they are flat head screws change them out for Torx.

You don't need a boresighter for a bolt action rifle, just pull the bolt, sight down the barrel from the rear on a 100 yard target with your rifle propped on bags or a rest, then without moving the rifle look to see where your crosshairs are aimed and move in the direction that they are pointing, in other words if the crosshairs are aimed 12" low and 6" left, move the stadia, 48 clicks down and 24 clicks left (for scopes with 1/4" per click adjustmemt at 100 yards). This will get you on an 8.5"x11" paper at 100 and zero from there... I can usually get within 4" of the bull with this method. This is also a rough way to check your scope in the field if the rifle got bumped or jostled.
 
hoytcanon said:
A flat head screwdriver and whatever Torx or Hex screws your rings use... if they are flat head screws change them out for Torx.

You don't need a boresighter for a bolt action rifle, just pull the bolt, sight down the barrel from the rear on a 100 yard target with your rifle propped on bags or a rest, then without moving the rifle look to see where your crosshairs are aimed and move in the direction that they are pointing, in other words if the crosshairs are aimed 12" low and 6" left, move the stadia, 48 clicks down and 24 clicks left (for scopes with 1/4" per click adjustmemt at 100 yards). This will get you on an 8.5"x11" paper at 100 and zero from there... I can usually get within 4" of the bull with this method. This is also a rough way to check your scope in the field if the rifle got bumped or jostled.
Click to expand...


Good info!
 
Make sue you degrease the inside of the rings and the outside of the scope where they mate to reduce slipping. I also like a dusting of rosin inside the rings to grip well.
Then tighten the rings to spec. A torque driver is good until you get the feel.
 
Wheeler Fat Max. Bore sight it at home down a hallway or better yet at something out in the yard. Then take 1 shot at 50 to see where it's hitting and use that to determine whether to stay at 50 for now or move it to 25 or 100. I've only been doing this for a handful of years but I have yet to have an issue. I'll generally post targets at 25, 50, and 100, and if I don't need to use the 25/50 much I'll just shoot em with my 22 between groups.
 
For bore sighting, get a large target at 100 yards. Remove the bolt and adjust the rifle until the target is centered down the axis of the bore and secure the rifle. Adjust the scope until it is centered on target for windage and elevation. Fire a shot and you should be on paper. If not, try at 25 yards and adjust from there.
 
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