What tools do you use to mount your scope

Some good ideas in this post. There's more than one way to sk....

Always carefully mic the O.D. of any scope before installation. They are not always what the manufacturers say they are. I have had to modify scope rings when the tubes were undersize. This applies to ring I.D. as well.
 
Although I mounted my first scope 55 years ago and have mounted thousands since then, using no more than a screwdriver or allen wrenches, I have come to realize that I cannot mount a scope. Kind of a bummer.
 
Leeper said:
Although I mounted my first scope 55 years ago and have mounted thousands since then, using no more than a screwdriver or allen wrenches, I have come to realize that I cannot mount a scope. Kind of a bummer.
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Likewise, not a thousand, but several hundred. I don't know how I could of accomplished such as task, without the Wheeler Torque Wrench and level level level bubbles.............but i did.;) It's ironic, I just mounted two scopes on rifles this morning.
 
Grizzlypeg said:
I bore sight at the range using an object way out. Then I start real close, like 10-15 yards.

To level the scope, I use a string with a weight to get a vertical, and level the rifle using a bubble level. Rotate the scope to match the string.
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I do the same. No fancy tools necessary .
 
Something to keep in mind, for best accuracy, is to have the scope mounted square with the gun or in other words level with the gun. . If the scope is off-kilter, with the gun, this affects the accuracy the further out the bullet goes. If the scope is off-kilter, with the crosshairs off the level horizon, the site line accuracy will arc to the low side of the crosshairs. Time spent mounting the scope correctly is time well spent.
 
OP, if your scope moved after a couple of shots, something is definitely not secured or installed properly.
Quick Trouble Shoot,
With a cross-slot rail base, picatinny or weaver style, when the rings are placed in the slot there will be a bit of back & forth wiggle play.
Make sure to push each ring all the way forward within the slot (towards muzzle) to alleviate the slack prior to tightening. (Torque wrench handy to tighten & secure all screws to spec.)
If not mounted forward, hard against slot, you may get movement.
 
The Outsider said:
I use the Wheeler scope mounting kit, it has everything you need to mount your scope, I found it on sale for about $100.00 USD.

then I use the BSA bore sighting kit, it gets me on paper every time.





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I do it pretty much with these tools as well.
However the collimator doesn’t work on all guns due to height of scope or some muzzle brakes.
For those I have a laser; put the dot on the far basement wall, Mark the wall (on tape) and measure up the height of the scope centreline from the bore, Mark the tape and put the crosshairs on it (crosshairs on one mark, laser on the other).
For some guns using a plumb bob is very handy.
If the gun allows it looking through the bore works great.
I usually put a large virgin piece of cardboard behind my target so if I’m off I at least know where.
One note on the ten yard target sight in; don’t zero your scope to it or you’ll never be on paper at distance. Put your holes about 1.5” below your aim point.
My 2 cents,YMMV.
 
Aside from the usual lapping gear and bubble levels I have a level line drawn on my fence line with a fine permanent marker to aid in levelling the scope in the mounts.
 
Seems like I have to level my reticle a couple times, every time. No matter how hard I try, what fancy tricks I break out. The third time is the charm! Lol
 
I will typically just use the basics to mount the scope; proper sized drivers and loctite.
I use a cheap laser boresighter by Bushnell. At ten yards, in my basement, I sight the crosshairs about 1.5 inches above the laser dot.
I fire my first shots at 25 yards. Pretty much always on paper.
If I don't use the laser boresighter, I will pull the bolt and boresight on a 6" to 8" target at about 25 yards; typically it will be easily visible through the bore and you can centre the crosshairs on it and fire at 25.
Dead on at 25? Then try 100 yards.
 
I use a wheeler fat wrench (torque screw driver), to tighten to recommended specs, and a magnetic roof truss dial from CanadianTire for leveling as I find bubble levels are not near as accurate. You can always go on YouTube for help.
 
I just use a screwdriver



Bubba_scope_mount.jpg
 
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