scope for 30-30
- Thread starter tamatik
- Start date
blacksmithden
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Gord.....think outside the box. Your old model 94 will do more than you think.
I'm getting a little older now, (but not that old) and my eyes "ain't what they used to be"
To me, the back site is a little better than a fuzzy blur when I'm focused on the target. My solution.........
Put a scope on a lever????
You mean like this???
It's a Bushnell 4x-16x 40mm Illuminated recticle
Note that it's turned 1/4 turn counter-clockwise so the empties don't hit the adjuster......which they will. I couldn't get one to bounce back into the action, but who wants to take the chance??? Of course, now up and down are left and right...and visa versa.
You'll want to go and buy the hammer spur. It's a bit of a trick to #### it without one.
I'm shooting 130 grain spear points with 40.5 grains (slightly compressed) WIN 748 powder "roll my owns". I know...I know....it's over maximum. All of you head hunters just settle down. I haven't had any problems, and I've fired hundreds of these. If you want to make a 30-30 reach out to 400 yards, you've got to go over the line a bit
They'll also go completely through 4 1 gallon jugs of water at 100 meters. They'll completely blow apart the first two and punch in and out holes through the back two, and keep on going. Factory 170 grain flat points split the first jug open, and punch a hole through the second, will sometimes get into the third, but thats it.
There is some, but no massive increase in recoil, and they're accurate.
The only problem is, as everyone knows, is you get one in the chamber, and one in the magazine, and that's it when you're using pointed rounds in a tube magazine (unless you're a daredevil). How often do you actually get a 3rd shot off anyway (or a second for that matter) The other thing is, if your rolling your own, make sure they'll eject before you put one in the magazine. If it won't eject, it sure as hell isn't going to feed out of the magazine and get lifted into the chamber. Seat the bullet deeper. Then you'll have to pull the screw out of the magazine, and pull out the spring and follower to get it out. I took the rear site off and put a 50mm 26X Tasco on it, (without going to see through rings to lift it up to clear the barrel I might add) but the weight of the scope kept loosening off the mount screws. I put this one on it with some red locktite on the screws, and so far so good. Being colourblind, the illuminated recticle really helps. It looks black when against a bright object, and appears illuminated when I'm aiming at something dark. You can change the colour too. Red or green. 149.99 at WSS in Edmonton. Works great. I'd have to agree with the other guys and say that you'll want to leave it on low power for hunting unless you spot something standing still, and have the time to mess with it. Jumping, bounding deer and scopes just don't mix well, regardless of the power.
I'm getting a little older now, (but not that old) and my eyes "ain't what they used to be"
To me, the back site is a little better than a fuzzy blur when I'm focused on the target. My solution.........
Put a scope on a lever????
You mean like this???
It's a Bushnell 4x-16x 40mm Illuminated recticle
Note that it's turned 1/4 turn counter-clockwise so the empties don't hit the adjuster......which they will. I couldn't get one to bounce back into the action, but who wants to take the chance??? Of course, now up and down are left and right...and visa versa.
You'll want to go and buy the hammer spur. It's a bit of a trick to #### it without one.
I'm shooting 130 grain spear points with 40.5 grains (slightly compressed) WIN 748 powder "roll my owns". I know...I know....it's over maximum. All of you head hunters just settle down. I haven't had any problems, and I've fired hundreds of these. If you want to make a 30-30 reach out to 400 yards, you've got to go over the line a bit
They'll also go completely through 4 1 gallon jugs of water at 100 meters. They'll completely blow apart the first two and punch in and out holes through the back two, and keep on going. Factory 170 grain flat points split the first jug open, and punch a hole through the second, will sometimes get into the third, but thats it.
There is some, but no massive increase in recoil, and they're accurate.
The only problem is, as everyone knows, is you get one in the chamber, and one in the magazine, and that's it when you're using pointed rounds in a tube magazine (unless you're a daredevil). How often do you actually get a 3rd shot off anyway (or a second for that matter) The other thing is, if your rolling your own, make sure they'll eject before you put one in the magazine. If it won't eject, it sure as hell isn't going to feed out of the magazine and get lifted into the chamber. Seat the bullet deeper. Then you'll have to pull the screw out of the magazine, and pull out the spring and follower to get it out. I took the rear site off and put a 50mm 26X Tasco on it, (without going to see through rings to lift it up to clear the barrel I might add) but the weight of the scope kept loosening off the mount screws. I put this one on it with some red locktite on the screws, and so far so good. Being colourblind, the illuminated recticle really helps. It looks black when against a bright object, and appears illuminated when I'm aiming at something dark. You can change the colour too. Red or green. 149.99 at WSS in Edmonton. Works great. I'd have to agree with the other guys and say that you'll want to leave it on low power for hunting unless you spot something standing still, and have the time to mess with it. Jumping, bounding deer and scopes just don't mix well, regardless of the power.
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I wonder why many of the best military rifles of the past, and today have peep sights if they were so crappy for faster shots or in poor lighting conditions?
Because they're used by young men with good eyes.
