Removing Live Primers
- Thread starter ve6ntt
- Start date
X2 I've unloaded hundreds of someone "elses" reloads in order to keep brass and ensure I know what exactly is in the load. (What do you mean I loaded Small Magnum Pistol Primers in those .223 rem cases?).
Unknown powder, etc...
I personally take my time doing such (No sense in slamming a primer out is there?)
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
I've removed the primers in the press without incident. Wear saftey glasses and gloves just in case.
I've also removed the decapping pin. Both methods work.
By the way, removed primers are sometimes re-usable, but I wouldn't trust them.
Just for giggles I tested a few, they went bang.
I've also removed the decapping pin. Both methods work.
By the way, removed primers are sometimes re-usable, but I wouldn't trust them.
Just for giggles I tested a few, they went bang.
I boggle at anyone who reloads who doesn't do this...
Cannot replace your eyes! As for gloves, man why handle primers/powders/bullets, etc etc without a pair of latex/vinyl gloves just to avoid contamination and potental skin absorbsion....
I've heard that WD40 neutralizes the primers. So, I've used it, still pushing gently though. I've never had a problem. I spray 24 hrs before decapping to let WD40 do it's thing. I think that someone else's recommendation to wear safety glasses is good advice. 
I've heard that WD40 neutralizes the primers. So, I've used it, still pushing gently though. I've never had a problem. I spray 24 hrs before decapping to let WD40 do it's thing. I think that someone else's recommendation to wear safety glasses is good advice.
Now you have to remove the WD40 from inside the case to prevent contamination of the next primer and powder, just push the primer out slowly as is without oil. I removed crimped in military primers without a problem and they would be the hardest to remove.
I've heard that WD40 neutralizes the primers. So, I've used it, still pushing gently though. I've never had a problem. I spray 24 hrs before decapping to let WD40 do it's thing. I think that someone else's recommendation to wear safety glasses is good advice.
A bit off topic, but I peformed an experiment a few weeks back to test the theory that water and WD-40 can deactivate a primer. I soaked a few primed cases in water and another few in WD-40 for 48 hours. I then emptied the liquid and intended to try them:
- immediately;
- after 24 hours;
- 48 hours;
- 72 hours; and
- two weeks.
I didn't get past 24 hours. Those I tried immediately after removing from the liquid failed to ignite, but the others all went "bang" just 24 hours after removal.
Primers are a heck of a lot tougher than people imagine. I fail to see how the microscopic amount of oil that could be transferred from your skin could possibly pose a risk, but that's the accepted wisdom.
That having been said - just push them out with the decapping rod.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I used to get the odd one go off when seating primers with a LEE Loader when I started out. Big deal - like a minor electric shock it just makes you more careful on the next one. I've never had a live primer go from decapping it with a resizing die in a press- and I've had occasion to do a few.
You don't NEED to do wear gloves.
But do you think the dust has in it from tumbling? Your empty brass is coated in carbon and lead residue (if you shoot non jacketed loads) or from primer compounds. But I guess could could handle those cases without actually touching them right? And all those cast bullets that I use. I guess I could just load them using tongs.
Considering that I have (IMHO) oily skin which leaves residue on every case I handle (I've seen my fingerprints seemingly etched into brass a week or so later after handling). I figure that for the extra $0.20 it costs me per loading session I'll wear gloves.
WD-40 evaporates which is why you use it as a temporary fix for squeeks and seized items.
Thanks Guys!
I'm still not sure what happened. I'm new to reloading and I started on someone elses equipment and all was OK. I then used my own stuff but his RCBS 30-06 dies. That was OK too. I have since aquired my own used RCBS dies and the newly formed cases chamber very tight...hard to close bolt! In my ignorance I bought small base dies (for autoloader) which should be looser not tighter. In the mean time I went ahead prepped and primed a bunch of cases. I'll get some different dies and see what that does.
I'm still not sure what happened. I'm new to reloading and I started on someone elses equipment and all was OK. I then used my own stuff but his RCBS 30-06 dies. That was OK too. I have since aquired my own used RCBS dies and the newly formed cases chamber very tight...hard to close bolt! In my ignorance I bought small base dies (for autoloader) which should be looser not tighter. In the mean time I went ahead prepped and primed a bunch of cases. I'll get some different dies and see what that does.
Most of it evaporates, but a good portion does not. WD-40 consists of:
50%: Solvent (helps it penetrate) - evaporates
25%: Carbon Dioxide (the propellant) - evaporates
15+%: Mineral Oil (lubicates, protects) - does not evaporate
10-%: Inert Ingredients (no particular purpose) - do not evaporate
