Do you Loctite your scope rings?

None on the ring screws, except for the enclosed Vibra-Tite on ADM mounts, but that's only because they asked me to.
 
I started using rosin on all my scopes after picking up my first Sphur. Works great, comes off easily, and prevents scope ring marks.

I sometimes use blue or yellow lock tite on my heavy recoiling rifles but have never had any issues either way with appropriately torqued rings.
 
I've mounted hundreds of scopes as part of my job. Zero complaints. Here is how I deal with the threads.
All screws and threaded holes are cleaned and thoroughly de-greased. Not like a NASA clean room but good.
The base always gets Blue Loctite on the screws. Only on one side of the threads and never on the bottom.
The rings get torqued to their recommended setting. No Loctite.
If you insist on Loctite on the ring screws I would recommend the Green Loctite AFTER setting the torque. The Green is the thinnest and has the property of "wicking"into the voids between threads.

As to the earlier post from the fellow never having any trouble taking apart anything he assembled using Red Loctite, all I can say is something is wrong ... old stock(shelf life) oil reside, That stuff is tough when applied right. I've had to use heat in the past to release Red Loctite when properly applied.They do call it permanent.
 
The red loctite was never strong enough on my ninja'fied high recoil 308 so I have started just using my TIG welder to keep those damn rings and bases in place, it does effect the scope housing a little with discolouration. But for repeatability and down range accuracy nothing is better than flowing in some liquid metal into those threads to keep things stable. When I'm trying to put holes in paper or knock a deer over at 125 yards it's the little things that all add up to a successful mission.

I recommend using a Lincoln power source and original Lincoln parts as well as filler metals to secure the strongest bond. Try it on your next rifle you won't be sorry...
 
My preference is to install the base screws dry - good and tight, tapping on the top of the driver with a hammer as I twist with my hand...

I lap the bottom of the rings and place powered rosin in them. Place the dry scope and rosined top rings in place. Tighten the dry screws to 25 inch pounds... and then a bit more.

Recently I removed one of these mounting jobs after several years of use. It felt like I had used Loctite on those screws... Quite hard to break loose.

You don't need to Loctite bases and rings... certainly nothing more than blue if you do...
 
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