No 5 Jungle Carbine advice please

M

mod7rem

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Prince George, B.C.
I recently bought a very nice No5 Jungle Carbine and have just started shooting it. So far just some 180gr Winchester factory loads, but looks like I am going to have to change the front sight to get it sighted in.

I want to try and get some good performance and fun out of this rifle, so I’m looking for any advice on what to look for mechanically, and also some advice on loading for it. I’ve been handloading for all my rifles for over 20 years but never for 303 Brit. This will mainly be range fun but will probably take it for some hunting scenarios as well.

I know there are a lot of 303 Brit enthusiasts on this site, and I appreciate any advice. Thanks.
 
Several threads on this site about reloading for 303 British with hints to help brass last longer than usual. For "lots of fun" especially with targets, might consider learning to cast and lube or powder coat lead bullets. I got a real decent mould from Accurate Molds in USA - page 3 of their catalogue - #31-200L, similar to, but not same as, Lyman 314299 that casts about 200 grain bullets - .315" cast with wheel weights. 1,000 Hornady gas checks. A Lee sizing die that sizes to .314". A Lyman 31 Long "M" die. Several powders are suitable - Lyman manuals show several in the 1,500 fps to 1,900 fps range. Becomes as interesting a hobby to cast really good bullets as it is to shoot them!
 
lone ranger said:
why do you have to change the front site ? you should have the Ladder rear site. its fully adjustable.
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Yes it has the adjustable rear sight, but I have to crank it up to 300yd mark just to get it close to the right elevation at 100 yds. That’s with the 180gr factory ammo running about 2300 FPS. Once I settle on a load it will be nice to change to a lower front sight to get it matching for 200 yd zero. The front sight on there now is a +.045
From what I’ve read, if the load is zero’d in to match the 200yd marking on the flip up sight, then the battle sight will be calibrated for 300 yd.
 
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Potashminer said:
Several threads on this site about reloading for 303 British with hints to help brass last longer than usual. For "lots of fun" especially with targets, might consider learning to cast and lube or powder coat lead bullets. I got a real decent mould from Accurate Molds in USA - page 3 of their catalogue - #31-200L, similar to, but not same as, Lyman 314299 that casts about 200 grain bullets - .315" cast with wheel weights. 1,000 Hornady gas checks. A Lee sizing die that sizes to .314". A Lyman 31 Long "M" die. Several powders are suitable - Lyman manuals show several in the 1,500 fps to 1,900 fps range. Becomes as interesting a hobby to cast really good bullets as it is to shoot them!
Click to expand...


Thanks, I’ll try and find the other threads. And I think you’re right that getting into casting would be another hobby I’d get hooked on and need to find time for lol.
 
The battle/aperture sight on the No.4 and No.5 rifle is primarily designed for 300 yards - although the Infantry Training Manual of 1955 on the No.4 discusses use of the sight up to 400 yards. The aperture was designed for aiming at the midsection of a man-sized target up to 300 (or 400...) yards and should result in hits on target.

Using the aperture at "shorter" ranges requires one to aim off. Using the smaller flip up aperture on the 800 yard sight, will also require aiming off - as the shortest distance is 200 yards.

Of course, service ammunition was the 174 grain FMJ...
 
The proper rear sight on a No.5 goes up to 800 yds not 1000 yds for the No.4. It will make a difference in impact if you have the wrong one installed.
 
I used to hunt with a #4. I really liked the big battle sight. I found it very fast to use and it did not obscure what was down range like the flip up sight would.

You are probably going to need a taller front sight. I would guess 2 or 3 steps taller.
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
The proper rear sight on a No.5 goes up to 800 yds not 1000 yds for the No.4. It will make a difference in impact if you have the wrong one installed.
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Yes, this one has the 200-800 rear sight. Even using the battle sight the rounds were hitting about 8” low at 100 yds I found a video about zeroing the No5 and the guy had to change from a +.045 front sight to a -.015 to get a proper 200 yd zero.
 
OP, I've loaded for and shot more No1/No4/No5 rifles than I can keep count of.

The first thing you need to do is slug your barrel, so you can find appropriate bullets.

The original bullets swaged for the 303 Brit had exposed lead cores at their base.

This may or may not have been done on purpose, but one thing it did do was to help the the jackets to obdurate into the rifling when the pressures forced the lead further up.

I find the Nosler Partitions, with the exposed lead, flat base bullets work in a similar manner. Not as well as the original types though.

Most No5 rifles were made under peace time conditions and will shoot .311 or .312 bullets best.

I find the recoil on No5 rifles to be uncomfortable at best, so I normally shoot 150 grain flat base bullets out of mine. Every Lee Enfield I've had seems to prefer flat base bullets over boat tail types.

I load my No5 lighter than the No1 or No4 types. Not because it won't handle the same loads but because of the excessive recoil. It seems to shoot better with the light loads than it does with stout factory loads.

I've used the pulled bullets and powder from surplus 7.62x54R and 7.62x39 for cheap plinking loads. My rifle shoots them well but nothing exceptional. Great plinking rounds though.

I've also tried the light 125 grain .310 soft point commercial bullets in my rifle. Again nothing to get excited about.

My rifle likes .312 bullets with flat bases at moderate velocities.

My go to load for the No5 is 150 grain flat base spire point bullets, over 41.0 grains of IMR 4895 over CCI 250 primers. Seated out as far as they will fit into the magazine.

OP, before you decide to strip the stocks off your rifle. GOOGLE The PROPER PROCEDURE FOR DOING SO. If you don't do it correctly, you will crush the ways (bedding) and your rifle will never shoot well until they're fixed properly, which can be a real chore.
 
bearhunter said:
OP, I've loaded for and shot more No1/No4/No5 rifles than I can keep count of.

The first thing you need to do is slug your barrel, so you can find appropriate bullets.

The original bullets swaged for the 303 Brit had exposed lead cores at their base.

This may or may not have been done on purpose, but one thing it did do was to help the the jackets to obdurate into the rifling when the pressures forced the lead further up.

I find the Nosler Partitions, with the exposed lead, flat base bullets work in a similar manner. Not as well as the original types though.

Most No5 rifles were made under peace time conditions and will shoot .311 or .312 bullets best.

I find the recoil on No5 rifles to be uncomfortable at best, so I normally shoot 150 grain flat base bullets out of mine. Every Lee Enfield I've had seems to prefer flat base bullets over boat tail types.

I load my No5 lighter than the No1 or No4 types. Not because it won't handle the same loads but because of the excessive recoil. It seems to shoot better with the light loads than it does with stout factory loads.

I've used the pulled bullets and powder from surplus 7.62x54R and 7.62x39 for cheap plinking loads. My rifle shoots them well but nothing exceptional. Great plinking rounds though.

I've also tried the light 125 grain .310 soft point commercial bullets in my rifle. Again nothing to get excited about.

My rifle likes .312 bullets with flat bases at moderate velocities.

My go to load for the No5 is 150 grain flat base spire point bullets, over 41.0 grains of IMR 4895 over CCI 250 primers. Seated out as far as they will fit into the magazine.

OP, before you decide to strip the stocks off your rifle. GOOGLE The PROPER PROCEDURE FOR DOING SO. If you don't do it correctly, you will crush the ways (bedding) and your rifle will never shoot well until they're fixed properly, which can be a real chore.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the great info.
 
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