Wax

[iain.quayle]

Hiya, have used various oil-based corrosion inhibitors in that past for the collection and they work well enough, but I just started looking into the wax-based ones.
They seem to be less popular but the few posts I have found on other forums absolutely rave about them, saying they are impenetrable and can be used on the wood and leather as well. The main one I have heard about is Renaissance Wax, but amazon has some others like EJ Wheaton and Quakehold.

So I just wanted to hear from others, if they are all they are hyped to be in terms of corrion resistance and organics preservation, and if so which brand(s) should I stick to/stay away from?

Thanks for any help.

 

[7ECA]

Lee Valley has a line of wax products (Plane Wax, as I recall; and Conservators Wax) that are purportedly a very similar composition to Renaissance Wax. I've used it quite a bit on milsurp rifles to no ill effect. Basically, instead of oiling the exterior metal parts I'll wax them, along with the stock and then put them in the safe.

If you need to remove the wax, that can be done with Mineral Spirits.

 

[bearhunter]

Don't believe they aren't impenetrable. They all are and have to be. The nicest thing about them is that they are easily reapplied when they get discolored from rain drops or wear away.

I use clear Kiwi shoe polish to put a very light coat on my firearms IF I'M NOT ALREADY USING A PRODUCT MADE BY BIRCHWOOD CASEY called "SHEATH"

I have applied several different types of corrosion inhibitors, including Renaissance Wax and Quakehold, which are furniture waxes. They work but SHEATH works better.


Gun shows seem to attract people with SWEATY PALMS that almost instantly start rusting the metal finishes on firearms steel. I needed something that was quick to apply and would last for the duration of the show, even with multiple handling.

Wax takes longer to apply and isn't as durable as Sheath.

One can of Sheath will easily coat 1000 rifles. You don't even have to throw the application cloth away. Just put it into a baggie, with the can of Sheath until needed again. If the cloth is still a bit oily feeling, it still has enough Sheath on it to cover a rifle.

The stuff is amazing. I haven't had an issue with firearms rusting at all, ever since I started using it 20 years ago. It's also cheaper than the wax.

 

[Keithjohn]

I've used Johnson paste wax for years , one app UNTILL well used again .
Nobody's fingering mine though , it would probably rub off with that activity

 

[iain.quayle]

Thank you guys, I'll definitely take a good look at the suggestions.
Ya, looking at these options more for long-term storage with lots of handling.

 

[bearhunter]

I've used Johnson paste wax for years , one app UNTILL well used again .
Nobody's fingering mine though , it would probably rub off with that activity

I also like to use Johnson Paste Wax but it's only available out of the US. I use it as a finish on wood stocks by melting it and applying several coats so it soaks in and is easily touched up just by adding another coat and polishing.

 

[Cottage Hill Bill]

I live on the northern Gulf Coast of Florida. My bayonets live in a non climate controlled garage which means a temp range of low 20s (occasionally) to mid 90s (frequently) and humidity usually above 60% frequently above 80% in summer and some salt content if there is a strong southern wind (not usual). I've used Renaissance Wax for over 30 years on them with no problem. I also use it on firearms that are going to spend more time in the safe than on the range. Frequent shooters get a wipe with Rust Inhibiting Grease (RIG). I don't have experience with the others except Johnson's Paste Wax which I use for furniture since that's what it was designed for. Ren Wax was designed with the input of museum conservators for museum collections. That means it is going to dry harder than a furniture wax. I also use it on the machined or polished surfaces of my wood working equipment like the bed of the jointer or table of the table saw. It can seem pricey but a little goes a long way. In 30ish years I'm on my second or third 7 oz jar. I haven't used it on leather, but wouldn't consider anything else on metal and wood.

 

[purple]

Make sure to give everything a post-gunshow wipe down. My stuff collects more fingerprints than the RCMP forensics lab. Then there's the peril of dripping Tim Hortons take-out cups.

 

[iain.quayle]

Make sure to give everything a post-gunshow wipe down. My stuff collects more fingerprints than the RCMP forensics lab. Then there's the peril of dripping Tim Hortons take-out cups.

The exact reason for not bringing them in the first place. If they aren't up for sale they dont leave the property.

I live on the northern Gulf Coast of Florida. My bayonets live in a non climate controlled garage which means a temp range of low 20s (occasionally) to mid 90s (frequently) and humidity usually above 60% frequently above 80% in summer and some salt content if there is a strong southern wind (not usual). I've used Renaissance Wax for over 30 years on them with no problem. I also use it on firearms that are going to spend more time in the safe than on the range. Frequent shooters get a wipe with Rust Inhibiting Grease (RIG). I don't have experience with the others except Johnson's Paste Wax which I use for furniture since that's what it was designed for. Ren Wax was designed with the input of museum conservators for museum collections. That means it is going to dry harder than a furniture wax. I also use it on the machined or polished surfaces of my wood working equipment like the bed of the jointer or table of the table saw. It can seem pricey but a little goes a long way. In 30ish years I'm on my second or third 7 oz jar. I haven't used it on leather, but wouldn't consider anything else on metal and wood.

Well that's a pretty good review for it if it can handle florida well. We get those same conditions here for the first half of summer, high humidity and warm.